Source: Oil Cooler Hose 3/8"

[srsupertrap]

I am replacing my Lockhart 700 oil cooler lines while performing other engine modifications. I have been using Parker Push Lok 831-6 Heavy Duty 300 psi working pressure 3/8 ID hose. The local Parker Rep wants $4.00 per foot so does anyone know of a comparable or better hose with the same minimum specifications?

[Nessism]

That Parker hose looks like good stuff – burst strength is way above what you need since most GS engines use a low pressure oiling system.

I used Earl’s Perform-o-Flex hose for my cooler - $6.85/foot; only used about four feet so the total cost was not too bad. Has stainless outer braid to guard against rub through. Earl’s also has Auto-Flex hose for $4.99/foot which is similar.

My preference is to use a hose with outer sheath to guard against abrasion. Summit and Jeg’s both sell various brands – shopping based on price seems reasonable considering the application.

[srsupertrap]

Yep, the Parker hose is a good hose just a little stiff. I was thinking about switching to AN fittings & S/S hose like sharpey and others have used but my oil cooler has a Lockhart BP-180 thermostat with barbed hose fittings.

The S/S hoses look great but I would rather retain the function of the Lockhart thermostat. I would be interested to hear if there are any means of installing AN Fittings on the BP-180 thermostat?

[Tom MLC]

Yep, the Parker hose is a good hose just a little stiff. I was thinking about switching to AN fittings & S/S hose like sharpey and others have used but my oil cooler has a Lockhart BP-180 thermostat with barbed hose fittings.

The S/S hoses look great but I would rather retain the function of the Lockhart thermostat. I would be interested to hear if there are any means of installing AN Fittings on the BP-180 thermostat?

I used Summit Racing for all my SS hoses and AN fittings. Their prices were way less than my local auto parts store wanted for Earl's.

For the cooler, I cut the barb off with a hacksaw. Then I used a standard compression fitting to transition to pipe threads, and an AN transition fitting. The compression fitting idea was a gamble. But it worked well in the low pressure system. I used brass fittings b'cuz they're cheap. Maybe someday I'll switch to SS. I found a picture of just the fittings without the lines.

[Nessism]

I think you can use band clamps with stainless covered rubber hoses; hose ends are available that look like bolt/crimp on ends but have a hidden band clamp under the fancy looking anodized cap. Going this way will give you some abrasion resistance which is a good thing on a motorcycle.

[terry]

While braided line and AN fittings are aesthetically pleasing, they're completely unnecessary. (I build coolers for Honda 750's that run 100 PSI oil pressure and don't normally use braided hose or AN fittings unless the customer specifies it)

If you're on a budget, or just don't like being bent over at the parts counter, just use Auto transmission hose and band clamps, like what was supplied with your original kit from Lockhart, Derale, Earls, etc.

The AT hose is plenty "abrasion resistant", is usually around 2.5 - 3mm wall thickness, loves hot oil (be careful of some braided hose, make sure it's specifically for hot oil, or you'll be sorry, most aren't) and just being rubber, it allows most rocks, sticks, crashed car parts, and small animals to bounce off. Best of all, it's about a dollar a foot here in Oz, so it's probably free in the USA, ha ha! Cheers, Terry.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Transmission/ power steering hose is the way to go

[Nessism]

If you are going to use hose without a protective sheath I suggest you anchor the hose so it can't vibrate and move relative to any sharp metal edges. Automotive transmission hose as Lynn suggests is fine as long as it's constrained.

For my cooler I ran the lines around the side of the engine to minimize the length of the lines. The stainless casing on the outside is nice since there are no good places to anchor the line and I don't want it rubbing though anywhere.