Yosh build part deux

[first timer]

Thanks for the tips, been doing some thinking and I think I am just going to stick to stock valves for now and use the stock guides. Other wise I need to shell out more money to get the seats recut. That being said I will play with the valves and arrange them the best I can so I get the thinest shim possable. It will give me a chance to use my new digital caliper.

This way I can save a few bucks for the time being and put that money toward straight cut gears, HD clutch and maybe falicon rods. I am going to talk to Stan once he gets my crank and see what he thinks if I should got Falicon rods.

Still looking for a set of 33 sb carbs if anyone has a set. I would like to play with them and my 29's and see what works better.

I split the cases 2 weeks ago and was looking at the gear dogs most look good one gear might be suspicious, I'll take some pictures and post. Going to look around here locally for a place that can under cut.

[first timer]

So it's been a little while, crank is at Stan's for a rebuild and straight cut gears, block and trans are at APE for a bore and a under cut. Any who I was poking around in the lower case today and noticed at some point in it's life someone had put an engine bolt through the case right under the stator.

Being a good little monkey this person looks to have enlisted the help of a professional who split the case cleaned up the hole and TIG welded it shut again from the inside and the outside. It's nice clean work.

Any way my question is this, should I worry about this? Should I bother splitting my spare engine which is much filthier and needs a lot of work to look like my current case just for the lower half? I am putting some good money into doing this job right and just wonder if this patched hole is an issue.

[renobruce]

Don't mix upper and lower cases. You need to keep them as the original set because of the way they were bored originally. If it looks like the repair was done properly, you shouldn't have any problems.

[first timer]

i didn't even think of that, thanks good point. Yeah it looks like a quality job. I'll double check it when I get all my pieces back, but I think it's fine.

[first timer]

more shiney bits

Had a little time to take some pics, got my crank, clutch and cylinder back.

Stan does some real nice work!







Still many more things to get and do. Need to get all the seals and gaskets, need to get the cases blasted and coated. Need cams and ignition the list continues...............

[Tarbash 27]

Ooooh pretty. Mine is still sitting here behind me on the floor. Are you using the stock clutch basket?

[first timer]

Ooooh pretty. Mine is still sitting here behind me on the floor. Are you using the stock clutch basket?

yes stock basket with heavy duty backing plate, springs, and welded rivits. Stan didn't think there would be a problem using the stock basket as long as I did the reinforcement.

Did you go staight cut or stock on your crank?

[Tarbash 27]

Stock helical gears, stock basket, clutch hub rebuild kit I did myself, just needs to be welded, I tacked it together myself. Maybe Ill send it to stan. Did he balance yours? Next week, I found a shop local that is going to back cut my trans. A few of the gears are slightly smeared on the dogs.

[Big T]

I'm coming in a bit late here (being gone for 10 weeks will do that)

It looks like you're on the right track. Mine's more stock than yours, 1085 kit being the major change. I regularly rev it to 10 grand with the welded crank, no problems there.

That should be a monster motor. I hope it will idle well with that head/cam.

I assume you're going to degree the cams?

As far as frame bracing, it looks as if the braces around the stock battery area and at the back top (over the carbs) are most important. Remember, it is a street bike (plus, you can easily add more bracing if you don't powder coat the frame)

You've done a beautiful job with redoing the bike so far. I dying to hear it run once you're done. Don't make me have to fly to Tucson, post that up.

You'll be giving Renobruce something to aim for with his Beast build.

[renobruce]

You'll be giving Renobruce something to aim for with his Beast build.

Looking good!!

You'll have to get 'er done before next September, and bring it up for the Dynodrags! Beast vs. Yoshi!

[first timer]

Thanks Bruce I would love to race you. But if I can hustle I might be able to bring the yosh to the South West Rally at Escondido, Still so much work to do....

You get your bike fired up yet? What carbs are you running?

[renobruce]

Thanks Bruce I would love to race you. But if I can hustle I might be able to bring the yosh to the South West Rally at Escondido, Still so much work to do....

You get your bike fired up yet? What carbs are you running?

I might have mine done by then, too.

Fired up? HA! I don't even have the motor back together. Been busy. But I should have it back together this week. But then lots to do after that...frame bracing, powder coating, suspension, etc, etc.

I have some VM29's that are going on it.

[first timer]

Just an update, it's going slow, getting ready to get the cases media blasted and painted. Should be done in the next 3 weeks.

Picked up some APE valve seals so the issue is put to bed.

Now I am dealing with trans bearings, figured i might as well replace them with everything is apart. Trippivot recomends using some bearings from a bearing house because they are newer and have better alloy then the OEM stuff that could be sitting for years. The only catch is the bearing house stuff doesn't have the little hole drilled for the pin (to keep them from spinning) like the oem, But I don't think that will be a problem the bearing house stuff has the clip still and the sealer and clip should keep the bearings from spinning in the cases without the pin.

I'll post some pics once the case get started.

[80gs1000e]

Posting in epic thread now!!!

[first timer]

it's been slow going but here is my next step,

So let me run this by you guys, how do you feel about drilling the cooling fins like Pops and Craig Smith did? I know there is marginal performance gained but am really doing it for looks. Drilling holes in the fins will this jeopardize the motor in anyway (besides if I drilled through a oil gallery or intake port ) ?

I have a spare gs1000 block and head that I practiced on and worked out all my mistakes and hole locations on. I figured out what I need to do, I have the templates made and already started center punching marks for the drill on my good head (aka speedy steve head and 1085 bored out block). I just wanted to check with the collective before I drill an expensive head and block to only find out it was a very bad idea.