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TCK's GS1100ESD Gixxer/Bandit mod thread...

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    TCK's GS1100ESD Gixxer/Bandit mod thread...

    Well...Ive bitten the bullet and decided to go whole hog on my suspension upgrades on my GS1100ESD. At first, I was going to try to retain as much of a "stock" look as possible, by using 88 GSXR1100 wheels, which have the same casting pattern as our beloved GS1100's but are quite abit wider (would accept a 120 front, and a 150 or some say a 160 rear) This would have been great, because I would have been able to use a STOCK swingarm, modified for an underslung brake system. I would have use 88 GSXR1100 forks and triples and what not as well. The bike would have had a decidedly stock look, unless you KNEW what to look for. But, alas, finding those components, and then figuring out all the spacers and all that proved to be a bit of a nightmare, as not many have done that particular set up, and info for it was hard for me to gather. So after talking to Katman about the set up for many hours one night, I was convinced to simply go the full boat, and do 97 GSXR1100 USD front end, wheels and brakes, with the Bandit swinger. My original stance on this and desire NOT to do this set up was simple: I didnt want to permanently alter the bikes frame in any way. But based off of a couple conversations more with Katman, and Isleoman, and a few others, it became apparent that there were a couple of ways AROUND having to weld any tabs or bosses on to the frame, mostly for the relocation of the rear master cylinder.

    The options, as it stands now are to use rearsets, which im not entirely sure that I want to use, as I am pretty comfortable, given my size and hight, with the stock peg locations. Isleoman has said he had the relocation of the master worked out, but since he used rearsets he didnt ever use what he came up with. He is apparently looking at it again, and will hopefully get back to me on that. Katman even suggested he might be able to modify the Bandit arm to possibly clear the plunger interference, but that may be a last resort option, and over that, i would probably simply use rearsets.

    This project will take ALL of the winter for me to gather the parts from Katman for, and will be quite an investment on his part in time, and on my part in moolah. Trust me, Im not going to say how much its going to run me, but the cost, coupled with the bikes original cost, i could probably buy a nearly NEW modern ride with. But THAT boys and girls, is not the point. The POINT is to create the perfect to me GS. I love my ES for its ergos, the power and the design. Its simply a beautiful machine. It handles well stock, but it could obviously be better. SO, what I hope to achieve from this project, is retaining those parts of the bike that I love, the ability to ride to West Virginia or Kentucky or where ever in relative comfort, and then, once i get there, be able to tear ass thru the country side on what amounts to be damn close to a modern handling bike. I have asked those who have done these mods if it was worth the cost and effort, and the answers have all been resounding "ABSOLUTELY" So i am very very excited about the proposition.

    Now, for those of you, the purists, who are reading this thinking "Why mess with something that already works?" OR "You are going to ruin a perfectly good bike!" I say to you the following: I have NO intentions of doing anything to this bike that cannot be reversed! I REFUSE to alter the frame or anything else permanently. If i end up with all the parts, and it simply wont work on this somewhat rare machine, then I will set them aside and find another, less rare, GS1100E to use for this project. To be quite honest, it is my INTENT to later on purchase a second 1100E to swap these pieces to, (Ive already made plans to purchase an OEM set of pipes for the ES from the PO, Lurch, so the intent is in fact there) but untill i can afford to do that, they will be going on this ES. I have seen Kitchigai's project, and he had to do VERY VERY little to make it work. Some fairing frame tweaking, and thats about it. Yes, I will have to tweak the fairing frame, but guess what? I have a spare. No big deal there. So before you purists jump in and start ridiculing me, keep in mind that I am somewhat of a purist myself, and will not forever alter this bike.

    As I said, it will take me most of the winter to gather the necessary parts for this project, so this thread will be an ongoing build thread. I have quite a few other projects to tend to this winter, so I will be taking care of those while i gather the parts.

    This is my list, thus far, of what will be going on the machine

    '97 GSXR1100 USD 50mm forks and tree
    97 GSXR1100 17" wheels (these will allow for a 130 up front and a 180 in back i believe)
    '97 GSXR1100 complete brake system, front and back, with 4 pot binders, and new rotors
    Unknown year GSF1200 Bandit Swinging arm, modified for a set of Ohlins piggy back shocks

    there are many little this and thats that will go on the bike, and i dont have a complete list of all that, but the above are the important details. My bike already carries a Supertrapp underbelly 4into1, so that will aid in ground clearence issues, and if need be, i will have the forks revalved and resprung to aid further. I am not a small guy, but I have been told that its very likely I WONT have to respring and i should have pleanty of clearence with the stock set up on the new forks.

    So...Stay tuned boys and girls, should be one interesting winter....

    TCK
    Last edited by Guest; 10-31-2008, 02:28 AM.

    #2
    Sounds like a fine plan my friend

    one thing i would suggest is trying to locate a gsxr1100wp front end instead of your planned later model one as they are a direct fit & will keep the ride height almost stock if the clipons are removed & the forks pushed down in the yokes

    the only problem i can see with the plan is when keeping it twinshock with the 180 in the chain will try to run through the l/h shock so you will need to space your top shock mounts out a little for clearance

    anyway i look forward to seeing this develop

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by tone View Post
      Sounds like a fine plan my friend

      one thing i would suggest is trying to locate a gsxr1100wp front end instead of your planned later model one as they are a direct fit & will keep the ride height almost stock if the clipons are removed & the forks pushed down in the yokes

      the only problem i can see with the plan is when keeping it twinshock with the 180 in the chain will try to run through the l/h shock so you will need to space your top shock mounts out a little for clearance

      anyway i look forward to seeing this develop
      there will be no clipies on this bike. I am too tall, too fat and too old to ride like that all the time. And, to boot, i have recently found out that I may have RA, so the less i have to stress my joints the better.

      I am basicly running the year parts that have been suggested to me by Katman. He knows this stuff pretty well, and I dont, so I am pretty much going with what he suggests. Ride hight is a HUGE worry for me, as im no lightweight (6'4 260lbs) I will however pass this suggestion along, and see what he says. What year 1100 are the wp's? I dunno the sportbike model years all that well, as ive never been seriously interested in them.

      Comment


        #4
        Tone you have a PM bro...

        Comment


          #5
          Ok mate heres the info i have .... forks from the gsxr1100w models from 92 to around 95 in this country are 30" from the centre of the spindle to the top of the fork leg but later models are i believe 0nly 29" the same as the last oil cooled models

          i mentioned wp forks in particular as i have some here to measure but i believe wn wr & ws are the same eg the longest suzuki usd's available which is what you need to maintain close to stock ride height without having to make a stepped top yoke

          another inch never hurt anyone eh

          need any measurements of my wp forks or from 90 slingshot forks just give me a shout

          Comment


            #6
            For the front tire I would suggest a 120. Most all of the modern sportbikes run a 120 rather than the 130. The 130 will slow down the steering a bit.

            Comment


              #7
              You may want to consider using the stock '83 swingarm as an intermediate or even permanent step. I've got a 5.5" wheel with a 170 tire in there that uses the stock wheel spacers and the GS sprocket carrier. Couldn't be easier. The only mods are: grinding the frame about 3/16" at the passenger peg boss to clear the chain, an offset sprocket with a 530 chain, and welding a tab on the underside of the swingarm for the upside down caliper rod. You can even use the stock rear master with the GSXR (or Hayabusa, or RF900 caliper). Seems like less of an ordeal than the Bandit swinger.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                .....So...Stay tuned boys and girls, should be one interesting winter....

                TCK
                Does the name "Christine" ring a bell?


                Your 1983 GS1100ESD reincarnated. I tried to warn you! Some friend I was? Even though my shiny new red GS1100E may be a tad quicker than when I sold you the ESD, it doesn't draaaaawwwwww me into the same wild state of irrational behavior......

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by RJ View Post
                  You may want to consider using the stock '83 swingarm as an intermediate or even permanent step. I've got a 5.5" wheel with a 170 tire in there that uses the stock wheel spacers and the GS sprocket carrier. Couldn't be easier. The only mods are: grinding the frame about 3/16" at the passenger peg boss to clear the chain, an offset sprocket with a 530 chain, and welding a tab on the underside of the swingarm for the upside down caliper rod. You can even use the stock rear master with the GSXR (or Hayabusa, or RF900 caliper). Seems like less of an ordeal than the Bandit swinger.
                  Again, as I said quite a few times in my introduction to this thread: I WILL NOT ALTER THE FRAME PERMANENTLY IN ANY SHAPE OR FORM. This grinding is not at all necessary using either of the swingarms if you use the correct offset sprocket. Reading thru Kichigai's thread on this mod on this EXACT bike, he didnt have to grind anything, and instead of using a 5/8ths offset like everyone assumed and suggested, he tried a 13mm offset, and had a 1/4inch of clearance on each side without altering anything.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by lurch12_2000 View Post
                    B-b-b-b-b-bad to the bone...

                    Reminds me of my ex-, another Christine with a nasty disposition...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by lurch12_2000 View Post
                      Does the name "Christine" ring a bell?


                      Your 1983 GS1100ESD reincarnated. I tried to warn you! Some friend I was? Even though my shiny new red GS1100E may be a tad quicker than when I sold you the ESD, it doesn't draaaaawwwwww me into the same wild state of irrational behavior......
                      Indeed, but this was to be expected....faster?? Oh i havent even mentioned the minor motor mods i plan....mwahahahahah

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The amount of grinding done on the frame is minimal and the spot on the frame is the peg boss and not the frame proper, so there's no compromise as to strength, and since it's buried deeop on the inside of the frame no one will no it's there. There's no way on my bike that you can run the chain and keep the sprockets aligned without grinding the frame. I didn't even use an offset sprocket. I used large washers that I added one by one until I just cleared the tire. I have 1/8" clearance between the tire and inside of the shock. I mentioned the offset sprocket earlier because it seems like everyone else who has done this mod used one.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I will read thru Kichigais thread again, and in my discussions with others who have done the mod, there was no mention of HAVING to grind the frame. Also, from what i have been told the 82 pegs are slightly different than the 83, so that may play a small part in this too. Kichigai made no mention of grinding the peg bosses in his thread, but maybe it was assumed. There have been those who have said that you simply cannot run a 180 tire without notching the frame, and that has been proven incorrect...so we'll see.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Here's an interesting question... What width of wheel do you need to run a 120 front & a 170-180 rear & how much different is that from the width required to run a 150-160 rear?

                            Just out of interest. I wondered if a wheel for a 180 tyre could be stepped down to a 160/150 if clearance became an issue.


                            Dan
                            1980 GS1000G - Sold
                            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                              Here's an interesting question... What width of wheel do you need to run a 120 front & a 170-180 rear & how much different is that from the width required to run a 150-160 rear?

                              Just out of interest. I wondered if a wheel for a 180 tyre could be stepped down to a 160/150 if clearance became an issue.


                              Dan
                              To run a 120/70 radial you should use a 3.5" wheel. A 160 rear should be on a 4.5" wheel and a 180 on a 5.5" wheel.

                              Comment

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