gs 1000 overbore kits

[Guest]

I was in the process of tearing down mt 79 gs1000 last night and when I honed my cylinders I saw a few marks on them I don't like. anyone have any knowladge with the current available overbore kits? any performance gains? jetting requirements?

[gshub]

Gs1000

I got a wiseco 1085cc kit from Ape Racing ,del to me in England within 10days
Big thanks to them .
They allso due a 1100cc kit.

[TheCafeKid]

As i was recently informed, on the 1000 the 1085 is a +3mm overbore. Your cylinder walls are roughly 4mm, so you'd pretty thin at the 1085, would definately want an oil cooler i would think to prevent overheating of the inside cylinders, an 1100 kit would likely require a re-sleeve? I dont know for sure...

Another GSR and I are currently investigating the possibility of using 1100G jugs on a 1000 motor. Im not entirely sure its possible, but dont know for sure yet. That would give you the needed headroom to do a full on 1100 kit.

[trippivot]

1085 73mm
1100 73.5mm

the cylinder sleeve wall thickness is not an issue until you go farther than 73.5

at that point going farther you'll have to run late model GPZ pistons for the 18mm piston pin size and the crowns need work to fit the valve diameter

cases get opened up too accept the bigger sleeves

mix and match suzuki sleeves or get NEW L.A. Sleeve products...

I am building a 78mm engine for next year = 1238cc not including combustion chamber volumes

I can go bigger by my measurements.. but not much unless I get more throw out of the crank.... 64.8 could bring more torque if it were closer to 66. like the KZs' 66mm and maybe a little more cylinder spacing would have been nice.

I'm not complaining..

[first timer]

there are plenty of guy here runing 1085 kits and 1100 kits and none of them have had to resleeve.

I just did a 1085 on mine and APE never mentioned anything about resleeveing. These kits were designed to be used with stock componets.

If i was you. I would just get teh 1085 kits and leave everything elese alone. You will get a little bump in performance but it would stress everything elese like your crank and stuff....

[80GS1000]

A Wiseco 1100cc kit from Dynoman.net and a set of higher lift cams from Web Cam really gave my 1000 a kick in the butt...now it accelerates faster to 100 MPH than my 06 GSXR 750.

Suzuki also does a 1 mm overbore but no experience with that personally: http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-mot...n-1979/o/m5983

[tone]

As 80gs says imo stick with the 1085 kit for street use along with some decent cams, that will give you a nice big dollop of torque but if you want even more power the best bang for your buck will always be a gas flow & oversized valves, combine it with the above & you have one potent ultra reliable engine

[Frankenzuki]

overbore kits

TCK: GS1100 2v top end goes right on a GS1000 case. Make sure you use the 1100 head gasket. I have a turbo setup with that cylinder and head that is 74mm 1115cc The 11002v cylinder sleeves are bigger to start with than a 1000cc cylinder sleeve.

Trippivot: If I remember correctly your 1238 will be a 1260 if you use an 1100 crank. I think I still have a bottom end that had that conversion, I'll take a look.

If you're drag racing don't waste time or carru the extra weight of an oil cooler, If you're riding in traffic or your climate is hot , use the cooler

[dardoonk]

I am in the process of building a 1000 motor to replace my 750, I'm the other guy TCK mentioned (he just doesn't like to admit he knows me ). Some stuff I know, other stuff I am trying to sort out what I want to do, so I'll be on this thread closely. I do not want a drag motor, I am not concerned about cost because I don't care how long this takes me. I do not want to spend a ton of money porting the head or oversize valves though. I want to do it right, have something unique (at least around where I live) and occasionally scare a Gixxer squid.

> 1000 cylinder walls are 4mm - it is safe to run the 1085 kit with only a bore - you will have 2.5mm walls and be okay - I plan on using an 1100G head & Web cams, but not so radical that I have to go shim under bucket. Yea or nea on needing a cooler for this setup??

> 1100 BB kit will need new sleeves because the walls will be down to 2mm. If I resleeve or use an 1100G block, I might as well put the Wisco 1100 kit in. Then again. if I go with new sleeves, I might as well bore it as large as I can, Can I use 76mm pistons from a KZ 1000 BB kit? Probably, I would need to bore the case to fit sleeves this large. What else will be needed for these pistons & could I possible keep the 76mm bore motor streetable?

> That's it for now, more stupid questions to come

[stain]

I saw the web cams on the dynoman site. I didn't plan on putting this much coin in this project. I"ll have to mull this over a bit. anyone else with a 1085 kit?

[renobruce]

I'm doing a 1085 with ported head, new stock valves with 3 angle grind, welded crank, welded billet clutch... and for now I'm going with 1100G cams. I was told from an old school Suzuki/Kawi racer that the 1100G cams give more lift and duration? I don't know how to measure them to tell just how much. Also going with a set of VM29's and an oil cooler.

[Big T]

I did the 1085 about 15 years ago. Definately the way to go. My machinist cleaned up my ports a bit, chamfered the combustion chambers to eliminate hot spots (detonation) and cc'ed the combustion chambers because he's anal. All 3 are things you can do with a Dremel and some patience.

I have stock 26 carbs and exhaust. I have to tweak the jetting a bit.

While I don't have a lot more horsepower (need a pipe, cams and etc for that) the torque is killer. You can jet by slow traffic like you wouldn't believe.

I can burn regular gas until it gets into the 90's, then a go to Plus. You'll hear it ping a bit around 3K. Or just rev it up more.

Depending on the miles on your motor, you may not even need a valve job (easy to test for). You do want to pop it apart and replace the valve guide seals at a minimum.

[TheCafeKid]

I'm doing a 1085 with ported head, new stock valves with 3 angle grind, welded crank, welded billet clutch... and for now I'm going with 1100G cams. I was told from an old school Suzuki/Kawi racer that the 1100G cams give more lift and duration? I don't know how to measure them to tell just how much. Also going with a set of VM29's and an oil cooler.

I suggested to Dardoonk going with 1100G cams with degreed sprockets for the time being. I think he'll get the punch he is looking for out of them without spending a bunch on WebCams. At least thats what *I* would do, but then again, I can be a bit of a cheap ass at times....lol

For my "mildly tuned" 1100E motor, im using 1150 cams with degreeable sprockets, 105intake and 107exhaust, some 1150 carbs, top end oiler, welded clutch basket and manual cam chain tensioner, and 750 oil pump gears. Wont make a MASSIVE difference, but it should give it a lil bit more bang for the buck. Having said that, hopefully by NEXT winter i will have an 1100E 1166 bore, yadda yadda yadda, that puts down about 140ish HP to the wheel. That's gonna cost me a few thousand tho. Do i NEED it? Hrmmmmmm


I think so

[stain]

I wouldn't mind an overbore with some cams--don't want to fight the tuning of it. I already have the pipe dyna s and stage 3 jetting.
This bike started out as a a simple project--you know, buy it, just puff it up a little and be riding it a couple weeks later. That was 4 months ago and the motor is now disasembled on my bench and all the bodywork is getting ready to paint.

[renobruce]

I wouldn't mind an overbore with some cams--don't want to fight the tuning of it. I already have the pipe dyna s and stage 3 jetting.
This bike started out as a a simple project--you know, buy it, just puff it up a little and be riding it a couple weeks later. That was 4 months ago and the motor is now disasembled on my bench and all the bodywork is getting ready to paint.

You're obsessed like the rest of us!