Fresh rejet, won't start.

[Big T]

Ok, I an swallow the rest of that, but 115 mains? That caught me off guard. I was going to try a 97.5 with the stock setup, because I heard these bikes were made to run lean to meet emission standards. I think the carb guy said it came with a 95. He has to deal with a lot of carbs, though. It might be a 90. I need to look again.

Listen to Keith. There are few people who know more about VM 26 set up than he does. If your guy knew what he was doing, you'd be riding now.

[burp reynolds]

Listen to Keith. There are few people who know more about VM 26 set up than he does. If your guy knew what he was doing, you'd be riding now.

I'm totally listening. I'm just surprised. I swear to God, though, the bike was running at one point after I got them back.

[mighty13d]

...apply vacuum to the mouth of the jug by sucking on it, and... Get totally HIGH!

Random thread hijack

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Ok, I an swallow the rest of that, but 115 mains? That caught me off guard. I was going to try a 97.5 with the stock setup, because I heard these bikes were made to run lean to meet emission standards. I think the carb guy said it came with a 95. He has to deal with a lot of carbs, though. It might be a 90. I need to look again.

Let me correct a mistake I typed. I meant to say the stock mains are 95's. I read your past posts and you stated the stock 90's were replaced with 100's, etc.....and that somehow led to the brain fade.
Doesn't matter as to my suggestion to use 115's. What really creates the guessing here is that pods of ANY kind and a stock exhaust are a poor flow match and can make jetting difficult to get right the first try.
And from what I remember, you said you have pods, not a stock set up as you state above.
As for main jet suggestion with pods/stock exhaust, For what it's worth, consider that Dynojet recommends 7 full sizes (35) increase for K&N pods and quality exhaust. DJ's 138 main jet (supplied in their kit) is about the same as a 130 Mikuni main.
So an increase of approx' half of that (4 full sizes in this case) isn't unusual at all. In fact, it's just about a middle of the range selection. It may work, it may not. I can only guess when it comes to internet jetting.
What's important to remember after reading your posts, simple start up, idling, and a little revving of the throttle has nothing to do with the main. Your main will only effect the performance at 3/4 to full throttle. I think you have more than a too small main to worry about. I doubt the carbs have been fully set up correctly, among other things.
You have to do the basics first, then re-jet. All of my previous posts apply.

[burp reynolds]

...apply vacuum to the mouth of the jug by sucking on it, and... Get totally HIGH!

Hey, I didn't say that!

Incidentally, the vaccuum sucked up kind of a lot of gas, and the air in the garage was so dank, I went upstairs and told my wife there was an Aztec god in the basement. That could have been anything, though.

BTW, I went to Messalonskee. Where'd you go?

[burp reynolds]

Let me correct a mistake I typed. I meant to say the stock mains are 95's. I read your past posts and you stated the stock 90's were replaced with 100's, etc.....and that somehow led to the brain fade.
Doesn't matter as to my suggestion to use 115's. What really creates the guessing here is that pods of ANY kind and a stock exhaust are a poor flow match and can make jetting difficult to get right the first try.
And from what I remember, you said you have pods, not a stock set up as you state above.
As for main jet suggestion with pods/stock exhaust, For what it's worth, consider that Dynojet recommends 7 full sizes (35) increase for K&N pods and quality exhaust. DJ's 138 main jet (supplied in their kit) is about the same as a 130 Mikuni main.
So an increase of approx' half of that (4 full sizes in this case) isn't unusual at all. In fact, it's just about a middle of the range selection. It may work, it may not. I can only guess when it comes to internet jetting.
What's important to remember after reading your posts, simple start up, idling, and a little revving of the throttle has nothing to do with the main. Your main will only effect the performance at 3/4 to full throttle. I think you have more than a too small main to worry about. I doubt the carbs have been fully set up correctly, among other things.
You have to do the basics first, then re-jet. All of my previous posts apply.

Dangit, I wish I'd known all of this before I spent 250 bones on a risky rejet. I could have gotten a DJ set for 100, and I would have been on the road over a month ago. If anybodys' reading this and considering temporarily rejetting, first search the forum for the following terms: (main jet, e-clip, failure, shame, heartbreak, destruction and eventual exile of decendants) so you can get the whole story and know what you're up against.
Sorry about the confusion. I've been trying this and that downstairs, cranking the starter at every conceivable fuel screw position, and at one point a different thread I was following convinced me to give up on the Emgo pods and go back to the stock airbox. Since the main jet was only 2 sizes bigger, I figured I could at least get her running and maybe fine tune it to work better than before (see comment about factory leanness) But no dice. The carb guy's sending back the original mains, along with some 97.5's, so I'll try it with the 97.5's, and if that doesn't work, back to the 95's, then when I can afford a 4-1, I'll start the fiasco over again. So just one more question and I'll leave you alone. How important are the breather hoses on the tops of the carbs? I've been trying to start it without them on. Could that be the problem? I figured they were nonessential since the PO had one of them capped off, and the other two open.

[mighty13d]

Hey, I didn't say that!

BTW, I went to Messalonskee. Where'd you go?

I went to Dexter... it's just North of Newport. You didn't just sell some blinkers on ebay did you? lol I got a set off from a guy who came from Maine and lives in NM now!

[burp reynolds]

I went to Dexter... it's just North of Newport. You didn't just sell some blinkers on ebay did you? lol I got a set off from a guy who came from Maine and lives in NM now!

Huh. Worked at summer camps with a couple of kids from Dexter. One Crystal Crowley, and another guy named Ryan. Ryan Bown or White or something. I'm not your blinker seller, but that's interesting that he's from Maine. A lot of people leave Maine when they're about 20. Some go back, have kids, get stuck, the rest put up with all kinds of crazy circumstances to avoid going back. Maine's a weird place. People that grow up there don't really understand that it has its own culture. They get distracted by the people surviving off the tourism industry along Rt1 pantomining their caricature of old Maine - Christmas Card Maine, and Clam Chowdah Can Label Maine. The real character of ME is one of good work ethic, dry sarcastic wit, and knowing how to fix absolutely anything with bailing wire and an old wooden thread spool. Unfortunately most of the kids (myself included) did'nt appreciate their inheritance, so the state character is getting corrupted and deteriorating. Now even though ME ranks among poorest states (we'd be broke if it weren't for the coasts), it's also in the top three in per capita consumer spending. http://www.fedstats.gov/qf/states/23000.html

Man, it still smells like gas in here. I'm going to shut the vacuum off.

[Big T]

So just one more question and I'll leave you alone. How important are the breather hoses on the tops of the carbs? I've been trying to start it without them on. Could that be the problem? I figured they were nonessential since the PO had one of them capped off, and the other two open.

Two of those breathers (the outside ones) should have hoses on them to vent. Put them back on

All of your starting problems may come from the "middle" one on carb #3 (from left, sitting on bike). That's the vacuum line for the fuel tap. It needs to be either connected by hose to the outlet on the vacuum diaphram on the fuel tap (recommended) or securely capped.

With that line open, your bike may never start. Try closing the vacuum line and starting your bike.

What fuel tap is on the tank? Stock?

All this talk about main jets is irrelevant to your bike not starting. Go back and read Keith's posts. Main jets have no effect until after half throttle.

I'd advise (again) putting the stock air box back on, so you can ride it. You seem to want to keep digging yourself a deeper hole. Stop digging! There's an old saying "It is the cheapest man who spends the most"

You be hundreds of dollars ahead if you hadn't put cheap pods on and let some hack overcharge you.

You haven't mentioned if you're an experienced rider. Keep your bike stock until you can drag the foot pegs whenever you want to. Then modify.

[burp reynolds]

Two of those breathers (the outside ones) should have hoses on them to vent. Put them back on

All of your starting problems may come from the "middle" one on carb #3 (from left, sitting on bike). That's the vacuum line for the fuel tap. It needs to be either connected by hose to the outlet on the vacuum diaphram on the fuel tap (recommended) or securely capped.


What fuel tap is on the tank? Stock?

All this talk about main jets is irrelevant to your bike not starting. Go back and read Keith's posts. Main jets have no effect until after half throttle.

I'd advise (again) putting the stock air box back on, so you can ride it. You seem to want to keep digging yourself a deeper hole. Stop digging! There's an old saying "It is the cheapest man who spends the most"

Aha! Thanks for the tip. I put the hoses back on, as before, with the capped one in the middle, and the bike immediately started acting like it wanted to start. Great.

I put the stock box back on a couple of days ago. I'm pretty sure I mentioned that a couple of times.

Yes, stock tap on nonstock tank (that was the PO, I don't want to talk about how or why he swapped the tank) Yes, I'm aware that the jetting isn't why it's not starting.


Very first time I launched a bike was a perfectly controlled wheelie. That was at least ten years ago. I'm also a professional cyclist, so I ride better than I walk. I'm not saying you're out of line questioning a stranger's riding ability, but I personally wouldn't do it.

[mighty13d]

I'm not saying you're out of line questioning a stranger's riding ability, but I personally wouldn't do it.

I agree that I wouldn't do that either, but it just helps them understand your knowledge about bikes. I personally am going to do minor mods to the bike even though I have only had my license for a year. It's not because I want to go out and drive like a moron, it's just because I like to have my bike go the best that it can. If I wanted to drive a billion mph I would go get a GSXR or something!

[Big T]

Very first time I launched a bike was a perfectly controlled wheelie. That was at least ten years ago. I'm also a professional cyclist, so I ride better than I walk. I'm not saying you're out of line questioning a stranger's riding ability, but I personally wouldn't do it.

After 40 years of riding motorcycles, 10 years of it as a MSF instructor, I question every riders ability until I see otherwise.

Also 52 years riding bicycles.

I was just wondering why you're in such a hurry to modify a bike with plenty of power.

[katman]

Don't have any real help for you carb wise but had to stop in to say how much I like your name.... Strikes me quite funny. I have met him by the way. Buddy of mine stunt doubled for him in a show.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If you're going back to stock then use 95 mains. Run the two floatbowl vent lines under the seat and be sure of no kinks. Securely cap the vacuum port at #3 if using a non-vacuum petcock.
If you decide later to invest in a DJ kit, remember that a stage 2 kit is for K&N pods and quality pipe combo. It's not designed for pods only or pipe only. With stage 2, you will also remove those two vent lines and leave the ports open to avoid fuel starvation.

[burp reynolds]

If you're going back to stock then use 95 mains. Run the two floatbowl vent lines under the seat and be sure of no kinks. Securely cap the vacuum port at #3 if using a non-vacuum petcock.
If you decide later to invest in a DJ kit, remember that a stage 2 kit is for K&N pods and quality pipe combo. It's not designed for pods only or pipe only. With stage 2, you will also remove those two vent lines and leave the ports open to avoid fuel starvation.

Alright, thanks, Keith. I'm waiting for the original jets to come in the mail, already set the bike back up the way you described, and she's acting like she wants to start. I'm sure she'll run when I get time to tweak her.
I guess the DJ kit is in my future, esp since I've been forced to mess with the carbs several times already, and I pretty much know what most of the constituent parts are and what they do now. Besides, now it comes down to an issue of finishing what I started.
Since I'm getting over my phobia of 4xcarbs, I might as well go back to Maine and see if my old CB550's still sitting where I left it.