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1st Gen GSXR upgrade for GS1100ED
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Sunburn
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tone
Originally posted by Sunburn View PostOh, well it was a good post but that last sentence made you sound really pompous. I would have went a little deeper then the spelling on that last edit.
tone
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Tone
Tone,
I was responding to this thread last Sat and just as I submitted the reply the site DSN problem came up and I lost my entire reply. Oh well here it is a week later so I'm starting the post all over.
I'm a little confused as to which front end you are using here tbh but i'm guessing its the early gix one if so i cant see why you didnt just stuff the whole lot in including yokes, much easier
87 /88 forks are not first generation gsxr
RE- drilling the stock gix top yoke, its not a problem as all you need to do is weld in a couple of ally triangles then drill exactly where you want for the risers, plenty strong & safe enough
For those that don't know, these pics show the difference in steering stops for a 1st Gen GSXR compared to a 80-83 GS.
Here is how I'm going to weld the gage mount to the front of the GSXR upper triple. I had to grind away the original ignition switch bolt bosses.
Lastly ive never liked drilling & bolting the bottom yoke for lockstops as the position of the holes needed is quite close to the edge in most cases & a good hard bang can stress crack the yoke, i suppose welding bits in as above would help but imo its far better to re-weld new lockstops onto the frame to suit
Sorry if all that sounds a little negitive but i really do wish you'd asked before getting so far into it, tone
I have been going through this methodically and will document the key elements of what I go through. I do happen to have many of the parts for 2nd generation 17" wheels and USD forks so I can contrast the 1st gen approach to 2nd gen.
As it turns out the package conversion I bought was basically a botched job and none of the real issues in the conversion had been dealt with properly. So the bottom line is I have been going through this process with a fine tooth comb (working with Rob) to figure out what is relevant practically as well as mathematically in terms of alignments (wheel, swing arm, and counter shaft sprocket), trying to minimize changes to the stock frame and to make the conversion appear relatively stock.
What prompted me to post this thread was that I was running into a concern on how to do the the steering stops. I come to expect that I will get many inputs on how to do any question asked at GSR. I don't take it for granted and appreciate your expert inputs on the subject of stops as well as the whole conversion. I try to give back by laying out the step by step of what I have learned. And having gone through the process, I'm detailing out the not so obvious elements "gotcha"s that the experts gloss over because they assume the newbie already knows.
I have some more spacers coming from Katman, but did receive my Bandit rear axle and chain guard so I'm pretty close to mounting the swinger on my red ED to check the wheel/chain alignments. I also found a great local welder so plan to get the triple and other aluminum bits welded next week.
Thanks for you inputs. And anybody else feel free.
Pos
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by posplayr View PostOK I have been a little under the radar on my plans for the GS1100ED and since Ray asked, I decided to start a new thread and post a few pics.
So for point of reference, here is my fleet and the garage space I'm trying to work in. I'm not NEAR as organized as jwhelan65
OK so an quick overview of this phase of the project. After much hemming and hawing and research here and looking at other projects and getting an 86 GSXR with 91 GSXR 17" conversion I finally decided to go with a moderate and more subtle upgrade for the ED and go with a 1st Gen Gixxer conversion . It started using the 87 wheels but I got a set of 88 (3 spokes) and so that is where I'm heading now.
Pros/Cons:
* I don't get the fatty 180/55-17 rear I settle for a 160-60-18
* no USD forks but the 1st Gen forks are 41 mm (v.s. 37 stock) the axles are 17 mm v.s. 15 mm stock (although not 20 mm as the ) Slingshot forks (50mm upper and 41 mm lower).
* I get upgraded radials and wider rubber
* I get upgraded brakes (two pot vs single pot on 310 mm rotors v.s. 280 mm)
* forks will look stock to the uninitiated
* wheels will not but they will look like 2nd GEn wheels albeit 18" v.s. 17"
* Not as much chain and wheel clearance issues
* reduced offset on he counter sprocket (3/8" v.s. 5/8")
* improved ground clearance (18" v.s. 17" conversion)
* The reduced squeeze is paying off in that I was able to get the to retain the stock brake master without relocation or having to use rear sets.
Overview summary of the parts
* 88 GSXR 3 spoke wheels (front/rear)
* 87-88 forks with stock triple, fork brace
* modified top triple for handle bar risers, Gage mounts and steering stops (looking for a welder for DIY)
* Katman modified Bandit arm and spacers
* Modified rear brake pivot so I don't have to relocate the brake master.
* 530 gear conversion with 3/8 offset sprocket
* Thinking about doing bracing
Here is a pic doing alignment measurements to determine rear spacers ; been working closely with Katman on that. The 88 18"x4.5" wheels are unique somewhat different to the 17"x5.5"
Here is the modified rear brake pivot knuckle. I cut off the little arms and rewelded them about 5 mm each to provide clearance for both the rear brake plunger rod and the return springs between the frame and the bandit swinger. A 4.5 mm offset to the Bandit arm is required to accomplish this. No other spacers behind the master are required. Basically this allows me to keep the stock pegs, rear brake pedal and master cylinder and no welding on the frame. Here is the finished modified part:
And here is the final clearance achieved.
Continued
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750INMASS
Looks great, thanks for sharing. I am in the middle of a similar project grafting an 86' GSXR750 suspension to a 73' GT750. I ran into the same problem with the gauges & did the same thing but drilled & tapped the GSXR triple tree to accept some 1/4" set screws & bolted the two together. Pic attached.
Keep up the good work.
Bryan
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tone
Hi pos
First i must appologise for my post about 1st gen gsxr's i was of course COMPLETELY WRONG i've been working on them since they were new so i'll never know how i managed to post something so utterly stupid.
To clarify my previous post i was really just wondering why you'd gone at this project in the way you have & was offering alternatives, your reasons are clear now & although i really do not like drilling a bottom yoke the rest makes sense
cheers tone
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Tone
my post about 1st gen gsxr's i was of course COMPLETELY WRONG i've been working on them since they were new so i'll never know how i managed to post something so utterly stupid.
I have had a few myself
I was originally thinking to drill a hole in the lower, stuff a piece of round stock through and have that welded. I talked to Rob and here is how he has done it with some beefy welded stops.
I might turn those pieces of flat stock on end and have them welded, with a bore from underneath and a "plug" weld through the drilled hole. He does some final finish fit grinding to get the stops just right.
I was going to mount the triple of a set of forks and wheel and have the welder have at it. When I spoke to him he did not think that there would be too much heat going into the forks.
Pos
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tone
Originally posted by posplayr View PostI was going to mount the triple of a set of forks and wheel and have the welder have at it. When I spoke to him he did not think that there would be too much heat going into the forks.
Pos
Another thought would be to use some scrap tube to jig the parts up rather than the forks themselves, obviously laying your hands on some of the right size tube would be the key here
tone
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750INMASS
Pos,
Well here's a pic of my current project: part 73' GT750, water cooled 2 stroke triple & part 86' GSXR. I havent' gotten around to the steering stops as of yet but I was planning on having some welded to the head stock. Hopefully nobody will mind me posting a non-GS here. At least its a Suzuki right... ha, ha. I am really just in mock up stage at this point, plenty of details to sort out as of yet but it is heading in the direction I want it to. Keep up the great work, maybe we'll get these on the road sometime in '09.
Take care,
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750inmass
What you really need to do is beg, borrow or get a decent camera and take so pics of that project. Then start your own thread. There would be plenty of people interested in that.
So are all those 86 750 or 1100 gixer parts? Including the swinger? I see your moded the swinger for twin shocks? How are you doing alighnments?
Start a NEW thread ; it doesnt take that long.
You might find out something. Look at this tread
Looks at the mono shock on this one.
More here
PosLast edited by posplayr; 01-11-2009, 12:33 PM.
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Ogri
Originally posted by 750INMASS View PostPos,
Well here's a pic of my current project: part 73' GT750, water cooled 2 stroke triple & part 86' GSXR. I havent' gotten around to the steering stops as of yet but I was planning on having some welded to the head stock. Hopefully nobody will mind me posting a non-GS here. At least its a Suzuki right... ha, ha. I am really just in mock up stage at this point, plenty of details to sort out as of yet but it is heading in the direction I want it to. Keep up the great work, maybe we'll get these on the road sometime in '09.
Take care,
Hey Bryan, good to see you here. Here's what I did for steering stops, I simply had two 1/2" thick aluminum blocks welded to the lower triple where I needed them to be for my bars and switches to clear the tank.
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Ogri
Here's what I did for steering stops, I simply had two 1/2" thick aluminum blocks welded to the lower triple where I needed them to be for my bars and switches to clear the tank.
To get the tank clearance, I did it indirectly. The manual say that steering stops are +/- 0 deg.
I used a framing square, set to 40 degrees and aligned it beween the upper triple (across) and the frame center tube.
I then scribed a line onto the lower triple where a block would hit the frame at the 40 degree mark.
Pretty simple and did not require the tank mounted or measuring any distances between the frame and forks. It takes about 10 minutes including all double checking.
I will check tank clearance before doing any tank slappers.
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