1st Gen GSXR upgrade for GS1100ED

[katman]

Rob,
Damn I always liked that look. Guess someone else did as well .
Crap should I start another GS fraud thread? Or............. Could there be two of them?
Jim

buddy was trying to sell it to me when I saw the pic it looked familiar. So far he has not produced a pic of his bike.

[posplayr]

I just sent him this pic

[posplayr]

More stuff in the works but the ED comes first now.

[katman]

so thats not your pic?

IF you look close it is heavily photoshopped

[posplayr]

so thats not your pic?

IF you look close it is heavily photoshopped

Well you dont really have to look to closely

Yea it is mine Notice the driveway ?

[posplayr]

OK a little change in plan on the Yoshi 4:2:1 after playing around with the pipe and doing some Power point geometry work and after getting a set on V&H spigots from Ebay, I decided to leave the pipe as is and just install with the spigots.

The spigots are cool, but the main issue with them is that they add about 1.3" or 34mm of extra distance between the end of the pipe and the gasket surface in the head. While that did solve my clearance problem, it was a little too far forward. By cutting down the backs of the spigot(removing about 8mm) I got this total distance to be about 1" (25mm)which was acceptable and got the pipe to suck up to the belly better than before. If the Frame was not an issue, I might have gone to more trouble to cut the end of the pipe. However for thin walled Stainless there is an insert spot welded inside of the inlet to the pipe and I did not want to disturb that for another 4-5 mm. Here is how they hang.





The next is kinda a crappy picture, but it shows how tight the pipe will exit from the rear. There is actually a rear hanger bolt attached to the center stand bracket. I don't use the center stand. Also shown is a 2 1/2" mid pipe from a street Yoshi pipe. I have a piece of 2 1/2" stainless pipe on order from ebay that I think I will be able to fashion to match the nominal bend of the mid pipe. I used a roofing square to measure that I need a 21 degree bend between the header and the mid pipe.
I plan to hand the mid pipe on the OEM hander as well. Because of the spigots, i wanted the extra safety of having the header attached on a hander as well and not just the mid pipe.



Once I get the mid pipe bent, then back to the welder to attach the spring holders, rear hanger and the 2 1/4" reducer for the header. Hopefully and looks like it will be everything will be Stainless with a NOS Yoshi period Can.

Pos

P.S. I tack welded the back of the header with a hanger vice gripped to the center stand bracket. I disconnected the battery and the grounds and made the ground return for the welder are direct as possible so the current did not go through the frame.

[Bad Kaw]

Good stuff...I really like the bends on that thing, very good lookin' header.

-KR

[posplayr]

Thanks Bad Kaw,
U were just in time as I just got the Yoshi 4:2:1 back from the welder today. The following was welded
* 2 1/2 section was welded to a section of the original mid pipe (about 4" only)
* the spring hangers were for the V&H spigots were added
* a rear hanger for the rear center stand was welded after I had tacked it in place.

I previously had the hanger that attach's to the rear foot peg mount fabricated before doing the final mid pipe fit.

The Can is NOS Yoshi off an old Honda CBR 600 (IIRC), I swapped the Yoshi tab for an older style brass I has also won so it looks really cool



Here is a close up of how it looks at the head. I spent about an hour and 1/2 on the buffer cleaning up the SS pipe. It looks allot better and another hour would have it pretty spiffy. I also jacked up the front and checked the clearance. I actually have 1" to spare on the fender (closest approach to the header). I actually hit my oil cooler so I need to pull that back.



The spigots was a compromise. The two center down tubes actually hit the cross brace on the frame. By spacing the header out with the spigots about 1", there is nice clearance on the frame and I don't have to worry about stripping my exhaust bolt threads anymore. With the 4:2:1, I can access both the oil drain plug and the oil filter without removing the pipe. It also gained me abut 0.75" of ground clearance. If the cross frame brace was not there , the pipe would suck in another 1" and pull closer to the belly by about 0.4" That would give well over 1" of ground clearance which is critical for Gixxer conversions.

More coming

[chef1366]

One and a half months and counting.
Looks like you have knees
Really though it looks great.

[posplayr]

Anybody been following this thread, you will remember that I'm trying to keep the ED looking basically stock albeit with 1st gen Gixxer suspension.
In that spirit, I'm trying to retain the stock fender (besides I don't want to have to color match the gixxer fender to my current paint job ).

I assembled the forks, with brace and a wheel and tire so I could trial fit the ED fender and make the hole locations on the jig I made. You might recognize he triple that I previously modified to have ED, guage mounts and handlebar mounts welded on.




Here you see a fender jig made of 16 guage steel plate bolted to the brake mounts. I used a ED fender to locate the holes , drilled then and you see the 2 fender bolts sticking through. This is a little tight as the ED front tire is 100/90-19 and the Gixxer is 110/80-18.



Next step is to shape these square mounts so I can center drill and tap holes in them for the screws sticking through. I plan on trying to braze them, on using HTS-2000 which hopeful will not be hot enough to mar the inside of the fork tube. I will drill, tap and shape the mounts before trying to braze them so that there is less heat required.




The way the HTS-2000 works, I shoudl be able to tin both the block and the fork using a stainless brush. Once both sides are tinned then I will screw the block into the bolt loosely, re heat the HTS-2000 to settle and bond teh block to the fork. While liquid i will tighten the bolt to locate the block and allow to cool. That is the plan at least.

[posplayr]

One and a half months and counting.
Looks like you have knees
Really though it looks great.

I cranked it with no baffle agin

Sounded pop pop pop ...... great

[reddirtrider]

Pos, you did a nice job on that header. I looks very nice. I gotta' say though you should have put a meg on it! I know, but I'm partial to megs.

I'm gonna' take some time off and live life through yours and others builds. Keep the pics coming bud.

[jwhelan65]

Great work Jim! that front end is going to look killer. Just getting caught up here. Are you using the matching rear wheel? If so what swingarm?

[posplayr]

Overview summary of the parts

* 88 GSXR 3 spoke wheels (front/rear)
* 87-88 forks with stock triple, fork brace
* modified top triple for handle bar risers, Gage mounts and steering stops (looking for a welder for DIY)
* Katman modified Bandit arm and spacers
* Modified rear brake pivot so I don't have to relocate the brake master.
* 530 gear conversion with 3/8 offset sprocket
* Thinking about doing bracing (not at this time, although I do have the spare ED frame as shown)

Thanks guys, I know this has been a while and this thread has gotten a little old as the 1166 kit took precedence this last Spring (Julian Trip) and I dabbled alot with collecting parts for the GSXR.

I was not planning on changing the exhaust but this 4:2:1 SS yoshi came up on ebay. After looking for one for nearly 2 years I grabbed it and then worked to get it to fit. Finished assembling the can with SS baffle last nite.

Here are the NOS can parts with the modified 2 1/2" OD SS mid pipe. It could not find anybody that would bend the stick of SS, so I improvised and had the curved section from the GSXR yoshi header welded to it. It is only a small section and a relatively small angle that was required. My welder fabricated the hanger to match my race yoshi mid pipe for the ED .



Here you can see that there is a hanger on the header that ties to the center stand bracket (I don't use it), also there is a hanger on the foot bracket . That is a thick SS pipe that can support the weight of the can without flexing. Most modern cans have a hanger around them and I was afraid of using thin wall SS to mount the can. The double hanger was not absolutely necessary, but with the I did not want there to be any way for the pipe to fall off with the spigots and springs in front.



Brand spanking new NOS Yoshi whooda thunk




I think it has kinda a drag bike look to it.

[posplayr]

OK since it was Sat morning and I did some pics for the new Yoshi 4:2:1 install, I took some more pics of the front and rear tire wheel combinations

From left to right is:

3.5x17" wheel with 120/70-17 tire (90-91 GSXR 750)
2.75x18" wheel with 110/80-18 tire (87 GSXR 1100 with GSXR forks
1.85x19" wheel with 100-90-19 tire (stock GS1100ED)

There is a moderate height difference between the 18 and 19" wheels. The 17" is much shorter contributing to protential ground clearance issues when you do an USD conversion.



Here you see from left to right

4.0x18" wheel with 160/60-18 tire (86-87 GSXR 1100 6 spoke)
4.5x18" wheel with 170/60-18 tire (88 GSXR 1100 3 spoke)
2.50x17" wheel with 130/90-17 tire (stock GS1100ED wheel)





It is a little hard to tell from the picture, but the 4.5" wheel provides a much more round profile for that tire. It could be teh 160/60-18 is more worn on center but it never even started life with as round of a profile.



Pos