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SteveA
Coil relocation
While getting my Katana running I was stunned by the heat coming off the cylinder head, it got so hot at one point it boiled one of the coils. Any excuse to buy stuff meant a set of Dyna coils were in my sweaty palms the next day, but I got to thinking is the original position the best place for a piece of electrical equipment? So I set about relocating them.
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sharpy
Should work well there. Might be a good idea to place some washers under your tapered allen bolts to save cutting into the alloy. More pics please. I.E. the pipe and cooler setup. Is it twin or mono shock? Brembo radial master cylinder and thumb back brake, How much dosh that own u already.? ThanksLast edited by Guest; 02-13-2009, 07:31 AM.
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SteveA
It's been pretty well whoared to death now but here you go, and I gave up counting the pennies a long time ago.
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your engine heat did NOT cook your coil. I'd bet a months worth of paychecks! if the heat came from the engine the rubber plugs in the cooling fins would go liquid first- it appears that they are still there. body plastic has the lowest melting point also very close to the engine. the fuel tank is sooo close to the massive heat source too... are you vapor locking as well? those oil hoses right on the cylinders hmmmm. no no no.
sorry but I live in a no tweaking zone- and - well nevermind
leaving the key on and the ignition circuit energized WILL cook a coil from the inside out in less than 45 minutes. melted body, blisters, internal short out and all
aircooled angines may have 400 degree oil temperatures in the summer heat and traffic. this has been considered by the engineers and designers. the engine skin temperature and the coil temperatures are too high for naked hand checking.
either way it is your bike and your time. but engine temperature did not do what you have stated.SUZUKI , There is no substitute
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SteveA
All I know is there was oil coming out the high tension side. Thanks for the input, sorry that you don't appreciate what I have done.
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Originally posted by SteveA View PostAll I know is there was oil coming out the high tension side. Thanks for the input, sorry that you don't appreciate what I have done.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Steve - you've absolutely ruined that bike and it's now only worth £100. Being a generous sort I'll help you out and offer you a tad more
Seriously, in my opinion you've knocked together a cracker with the mix of old and modern combining spot on.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Fishman
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SqDancerLynn1
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80GS1000
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Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View PostLooks nice, but I don't know about the constant twisting of the plug wires.Originally posted by Dink View PostLynn they are mounted to the fairing bracket, they dont turn with the tripples.
DinkOriginally posted by SteveA View PostWhy would the wires twist?? the coils don't move.
The coils appear to be mounted to the same subframe, so there would be no twisting of the wires.
I sort of agree with trippivot in that the heat from the engine did not cause your failure, but I also have to add that, in general, heat and electronics just don't mix well, so keeping them cooler by relocating them should be better in the long run. Nice work, thanks for the pics.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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SqDancerLynn1
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