V&H SS2R on GS700E

[Gargoyle081]

Yeah tomorrow I will order some gaskets.I'll try stacking before I grind. I can get them locally at the dealer for like 8-9 bucks if I remember correctly. When I first got the bike it had a broken header bolt, and in the process of trying to take the rest of the exhaust off to fix that one I broke a few more. Had those drilled and tapped and bought new gaskets before I put the exhaust back on. It really looks like the rest will fall perfect with the lines of the bike once this is part is done...I will post progress as soon as I can

........and thanks for the info on the gasket sizing

[Billy Ricks]

Make sure you use anti-sieze compound on the new bolts.

One other suggestion, when you change the oil pull the header so you don't make a mess of it. If you don't want to pull it drain the oil cold then make sure you get all the drips off of the exhaust. You wouldn't want that pretty new exhaust having black, burned on oil stains.

[Gargoyle081]

I wasnt going through that again ! I picked up the anti seize earlier when I stopped after work to buy the shorter bolts...each bolt got a liberal dose. Draining the oil cold will probably be the route I'll go.Once this puppy is mounted I dont want to have to take it off unless I have to. Once its mounted up properly I will of course repay you guys for all your advice with the required pictures...

[reddirtrider]

Thinking some more on this subject, I do remember now using fender washers to get the spacing on the exhaust set up properly. You're going to need to bolt everything in securely for fitment, then measure the washer stack to determine if additional gaskets will do the trick. IMHO, if you go more than 2 (maybe 3) you're probably going to get leaks.

Most of the machine work I had done was through an online company. You basically create the CAD drawings, send them in, and they send back parts. Unfortunately, my old drive crashed and the drawings were on it. One of these days I've gotta' see if I can salvage them.

[Gargoyle081]

PROGRESS !!


Ok well I have the header and midpipe on the bike.

I did stack on a 2nd set of gaskets and end up grinding the head of the oil line bolt down some but the bolt STILL touches the pipe.I was able to push the header on enough to get past the o-rings so I put on all the springs that hold the header to the sleeves.I really hate that it still hits......Will this end up being a problem after I ride the bike for a while? I dont know how much vibration there will be once the canister is held in place securely. What do you guys think? Also the brackets they give you with the exhaust can easily be made to work. The canister lines up with the stock holes in the rear foot peg brackets bit its a few inches farther. I think all Im gonna do is use a straight, flat piece of aluminium to reach forward. If its done that way you wont even see the bracket because the canister hides it all

[reddirtrider]

PROGRESS !!


Ok well I have the header and midpipe on the bike.

I did stack on a 2nd set of gaskets and end up grinding the head of the oil line bolt down some but the bolt STILL touches the pipe.I was able to push the header on enough to get past the o-rings so I put on all the springs that hold the header to the sleeves.I really hate that it still hits......Will this end up being a problem after I ride the bike for a while? I dont know how much vibration there will be once the canister is held in place securely. What do you guys think? Also the brackets they give you with the exhaust can easily be made to work. The canister lines up with the stock holes in the rear foot peg brackets bit its a few inches farther. I think all Im gonna do is use a straight, flat piece of aluminium to reach forward. If its done that way you wont even see the bracket because the canister hides it all

Yea, the sleaves that come with this pipe are a bit too short. Like I said, I had some longer ones machined to get around that problem. They did run me about $100 or so, but if you know a machinist he could probably cut you some fairly quickly out of leftover aluminum stock lying around. That would be the ultimate solution. If you decide to go that way, use fender washers to get an idea how much extension you need in order to clear that bolt. Like I said I my drawings are on a crashed hard drive, but (again) if memory serves correct, I added about a half inch.

Another option may be to weld additional length to the sleeve. That would be far easier. I couldn't do that because my ports didn't fit the existing sleaves.

It may work fine with that bolt contacting the header. I wouldn't do it, but I'm anal. Ask anyone who knows me. lol

[Gargoyle081]

Im usually pretty anal about things, but for $100 dollars and in this particular case I would for-go messing with it anymore if I knew it wasnt going to cause serious damage over a period of time. I did put up a few pictures in my album. They arent the best pictures because it was dark out and I still havent made my rear bracket. The canister will be in the same spot as you see it in the photos. Ground clearance is tight...or so it looks to me. Anyone know the amount of travel in the 700's suspension? Measuring with the bike on its stand, the lowest pipe sits just shy of 4 inches

[reddirtrider]

Im usually pretty anal about things, but for $100 dollars and in this particular case I would for-go messing with it anymore if I knew it wasnt going to cause serious damage over a period of time. I did put up a few pictures in my album. They arent the best pictures because it was dark out and I still havent made my rear bracket. The canister will be in the same spot as you see it in the photos. Ground clearance is tight...or so it looks to me. Anyone know the amount of travel in the 700's suspension? Measuring with the bike on its stand, the lowest pipe sits just shy of 4 inches

Then get an extension welded on. That shouldn't cost much and will give you the clearance you need.

[Billy Ricks]

Get the sag set up right for your weight at both ends and I doubt the pipe will touch down. Even with my short '88 front end I had to be hauling butt and hit some serious dips in the road to have my header hit the ground.

To set up sag get the bike on its centerstand, if you have one, then lift the wheel off the ground with something under the engine so the suspension fully extends. Measure how much distance there is between the lower triple clamp and the dust seal on the lower leg. Then with the bike on the ground and your weight in the seat take another measurement. You want to see maybe 1.25" of difference. Either use more air or some PVC spacers on top of the fork springs to get the sag set up. If you use spacers use a fender washer between the spring and the spacer.

Do the same process at the rear. At the rear you'll have to find two points to measure from, maybe the bottom edge of the seat to the axle. Then use the preload adjuster to get the 1.25" at the back. You can probably just set the damping adjuster at the 4th position since these old shocks probably don't have much damping left in them anyway.

[Billy Ricks]

Gargoyle, did you finish the install yet? If so do you have any pictures?

[Gargoyle081]

Sorry for letting the thread go stale for the past week...Things got a little crazy at work. I didnt get to play with the bike at all but Im hoping to be able to finish it up and get some pictres on here in the next few days . The weather has been decent and its killing thats she has been sitting.

[Billy Ricks]

Sorry for letting the thread go stale for the past week...Things got a little crazy at work. I didnt get to play with the bike at all but Im hoping to be able to finish it up and get some pictres on here in the next few days . The weather has been decent and its killing thats she has been sitting.

I thought maybe you had finished the installation and you were enjoying the bike so much you hadn't posted back.

[Gargoyle081]

Nah thats not my style. It would work the other way around...Id be done, and I would be in a rush to get the pictures up

[Billy Ricks]

You could try a small piece of leather between the pipe and the oil bolt for a little cushion. Some aramid or Nomex would be even better if you can get your hands on a piece.

[Gargoyle081]

I do have access to Nomex(been a volunteer firefighter for 10yrs now) but honestly would feel like I was rigging it up if I did it that way. There is another bolt slightly around the oil pan from the one in question, do you know what that is for? The last time I looked at it I noticed this bolt and remember it being the same size (or very close). If they are the same thread I may be able to just swap the oil cooler line over to there. It should reach without a problem.......any input?