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1000G clutch basket in 1000C/E/S?

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    1000G clutch basket in 1000C/E/S?

    1000G clutch basket appears to be much sturdier than the chain drive 1000 basket. Is is possible to grind out the rivets and put a 1000G basket on a regular 1000 clutch gear?
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    #2
    Ed,

    I would think as long as the installed height would be the same and you had the assemble balanced afterwards, I couldn't see why not.

    What noticable difference have you noted between the two baskets?

    Comment


      #3
      Just compared the two baskets and the gear appears the same but the G basket is taller. Now I'm wondering if G basket could be cut down on a lathe to match the height of the C/E/S basket?

      G basket is on the left...


      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        EASY to convert Ed! Contact GregB as he is an AWESOME machinist & does LOTS of GS stuff. He is building & selling GS billet cam chain tensioners & is almost finished with his top end oilers. Ray.

        Comment


          #5
          Does anyone know what the max height is for the clutch basket on a chain drive 1000? Should be easy to chuck the hub up in a lathe and trim it down but I need to know how much.

          BTW, bottom end is mostly together for my 1000S. First time I've cracked the cases on a GS. So far so good.
          I'm using a 1000G starter clutch; needle bearings are larger than the regular chain drive 1000's clutch. Also, the POR-15 engine paint is killer tough - sprayed the painted crankcase with brake cleaner and it didn't touch the paint. Super durable stuff.



          Last edited by Nessism; 03-30-2009, 01:05 AM.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Not being negative at all to your idea, but it looks like the majority of the plate fingers would still be below the "un-braced area" on the E drum; and if you notice in your pics, the areas between the plate fingers in the G drum are heavily relieved, unlike the E drum that is more solid in the corresponding areas. I'm just guessing, but I imagine the lighter profile of the E clutch is designed for quicker revving, which probably wasn't a design criteria for the Suzuki engineers. Then again, I could be totally wrong

            Comment


              #7
              Oh yeah...your cases look awesome!

              Comment


                #8
                I have done this by using a MRE case spacer and the stock cover on top of that. it does take 2 gaskets and longer case bolts.

                the same spacer as a slider or a lockup. the gs1100 chain drive clutch assembly works too.

                the helical gears from a 1100 chain drive 1100 shaft drive 1000 shaft work together--NOT THE 1150 basket it is different.

                the 1150 inner hub is the best one of all and works on all of them with very little modification.
                SUZUKI , There is no substitute

                Comment


                  #9
                  Brake clean doesn't touch the por 15 engine paint you say....hmmm.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    try carburetor cleaner, I bet that will take it off.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tarbash 27 View Post
                      try carburetor cleaner, I bet that will take it off.
                      Carb dip may touch it but I doubt spray carb cleaner would. Por-15 paint is used as tank sealer and once it hardens it's almost impervious to chemicals.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The case looks great!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi Ed,

                          Did you ever conclude this?

                          I'm doing the same, and am wondering about cutting down the 1000G clutch vs using the clutch cover spacer that trippivot suggests. I've seen one listed for the 1100/1150 on Schnitz's website, but don't know if that same one fits a 1000. OEM cover and gasket numbers differ, so that's no clue.

                          No answer at Murdoch (MRE), and Fast By Gast couldn't tell me.

                          - Richard

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by rcp View Post
                            Hi Ed,

                            Did you ever conclude this?

                            I'm doing the same, and am wondering about cutting down the 1000G clutch vs using the clutch cover spacer that trippivot suggests. I've seen one listed for the 1100/1150 on Schnitz's website, but don't know if that same one fits a 1000. OEM cover and gasket numbers differ, so that's no clue.

                            No answer at Murdoch (MRE), and Fast By Gast couldn't tell me.

                            - Richard
                            Hi Richard,

                            I gave up on the G clutch and reworked my regular clutch hub to fix the rattling springs.

                            The G clutch would fit into the cases if the hub was shortened, but you will loose at least one of the extra clutch plates, maybe both of them. I didn’t do the math to calculate clutch area but since the G clutch plates are smaller, the advantages with using it are reduced if the extra plates are lost. There is also an issue with using a taller hub and getting the clutch release mechanism to work – I suppose that’s why they make spacers for the cover? At any rate, sorry but it doesn’t look like I’m going to be able to help you…but by all means, share what you learn if you get the G hub to work.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment

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