"Posh Racing Project" rear shocks

[makenzie71]

I'm really hoping that I can get to the manufacturer through Lionel or, if no other route presents itself, directly. I think that, after explaining my findings, they'll be willing to work with me but who knows. I'd like to think it's a little more probable because the changes would be expensive...heavier oil and heavier springs shouldn't be too much to incorporate but I don't really know.

Right now, I'm saying for a bike as heavy as mine, with my additional weight (total comes up to 610lbs), they seem a little on the weak side, but that opinion may change after removing the bump stop so that I get full travel and have some decent damping.

I'll try to keep eveyone updated on whether or not I'll be able to sell the stainless adapters, and for how much.

PS...A few new pics added to the report. Some of the ones I took from the initial tear-down just didn't look right so I'll be redoing them early next week.

[KGB]

5 pages of talking and the shocks still sound like junk.

My time is money. For my money I'd buy a proven product.
Progressive has always done well by me.

How much time and $$ have you invested?


Mackenzie, I applaud your efforts in this and telling us what you've found.
You have alot more patience than I do.

[makenzie71]

I think for the work involved in making them operate properly, you'd be better odd buying something better...but some people have already bought them. It'll be nice to know what to do.



The broken extension/adapter.

[Nessism]

I think for the work involved in making them operate properly, you'd be better odd buying something better...but some people have already bought them. It'll be nice to know what to do.



The broken extension/adapter.

The cross section area of that piece looks too thin considering it's made from aluminum. If it were steel, that would be different. Looks easy enough to fabricate a new one using a mill.

[hp1000s]

The cross section area of that piece looks too thin considering it's made from aluminum. If it were steel, that would be different. Looks easy enough to fabricate a new one using a mill.

Plus no radius on the inside corner...it was virtually designed to crack there. Normal steel would be adequate and easy to do.

[makenzie71]

Exactly. These pieces should not be creased so sharply. Metal just doesn't work that way. My new mount will be radiused (sp?) inside. Will replace both the shock clevis and the extension piece and will be a MUCH better product than what's supplied.

There's a sketch of my idea in the report...what do you guys think of it? It'll be cut from 460 stainless.

[makenzie71]

Small update. Last until next week. Have a good weekend, and a Happy Easter, everyone!

[makenzie71]

Updated.

http://www.kaleesphotography.com/photoartclub/Shocksproject/shocksproject.html

[hp1000s]

Nicely-done, very nice. Let us know how they work.
Hugh

[makenzie71]

brief update posted...basically saying that I used the shocks for about 50 miles today and think there has been a notable improvement.

[76FJ55]

What the heck is 460 Stainless and why would you choose it? A 300 series stainless is typically more corrosion resistant than a 400 series, and if you’re worried about strength a PH (17-7PH, 17-4PH, 15-5PH) stainless would make a better choice, but of course aluminum would be much lighter.

Not trying to knock what you’re doing as I think it is great to take a product and make a few improvements to it to make it a much better/useful product. I was just caught of guard by the proposed choice of 460.

[makenzie71]

Sorry...I meant 416...I misunderstood our machinist. I don't really know much about the metal numbers. I went with 416 because...well...it was free.

[76FJ55]

Free is an EXCELENT reason. it should also be more than strong enough. Though 416 is a "stainless steel" it only contains ~13% Cr (the lower end of the Cr range for SS) so its corrosion resistany isn't the highest. you may want to passivate it to help it resist the formation of surface corrosion. Nitric acid is probably the most common chemical used to passivate stainless but you can passivate using citric acid which is much more environmentaly friendly and less dangerous to work with. I don't know if the machine shop has a nitric tank? If they do it would probably be easiest to just let them dip the finished parts. If not, try looking into the Citric acid option if you are going to do it at home. the other option would be to put a thin coat of paint of your favorite color on it.

[makenzie71]

I won't have much to worry about in the way of corrosion...nothing rusts here. All of this stuff is treated some how to prevent corrosion, though...the details I'm not familiar with. We use the 416 to make shafts for centrifugal turbine pumps for all kinds of applications...including acids. Kind of fun stuff.

[voivod]

Any other updates yet?
how are they lasting?etc etc