Twinpot Brake upgrade on 78 Skunk

[salty_monk]

One back at ya... Still got some brackets here.

Went for the first proper ride tonight. The brakes are fine with the old pads. Two finger braking. Excellent.

The bike seems to have developed another slight problem though that I don't remember from riding it over the previous few years. After overtaking some cars as I pulled back in I got a bit of a front end shake like the beginnings of a tank slapper. Any ideas?

Pm sent...need some of these brackets.

Re: pad choice, ebc hh is a good pad for street and I've used them for a bunch of bikes, but they do fade under very hard riding or track use. For my fast bikes I use vesrah rjl now. Make sure the surfaces are clean, flat and worn even if you plan to reuse them like other guy said

[salty_monk]

Yes EBC pads are really good. The Stock Tokico ones are pretty good too. The generic "organic" ones around definitely don't have as much bite.

If the pads are in good shape, worn evenly, not scored & not soaked in brake fluid then they should be ok to use... Make your best judgement and remember any pad will need bedding in.

[steve murdoch]

EBC HH pads work great.
If they have plenty of meat i would use them.
Excellent reviews from M-S. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...red-brake-pads

Fitted my rotors and calipers at the weekend. No problems with the fitting. The brackets worked perfectly. I had some binding but that was ok as I was only putting the bike on the road today. The seals for the calipers arrived this morning and after cleaning out the bodies and fitting the seals everything is ok. What pads should I be using? The calipers came with some EBC HH pads that seem to have plenty of life in them but I will be fitting new ones as I don't cut corners with my brakes.

i had some of those China disks on my previous bike (1997 Suzuki TL1000), they worked perfectly, i also was a bit reluctant on using those, but after lots of searching on bad reviews, i couldnt find any, only hearsay, i did find plenty of pictures of broken/sheared Galfers,Braking EBC and Brembo disks.. all after heavy use on a race track i might add..

but on an old GS?? i would put those on in a heartbeat...

I'll keep this in mind of the stock ones I purchased don't work out. It's always a crapshoot going from just pictures, but they supplied some pretty decent pictures from all angles, so I feel fairly comfortable.

Quick Question for those here who might have experience with some of the aftermarket rotors listed on Ebay... The ones sourced from Hong Kong, etc.

They look cool... but are these substandard materials and should they be avoided?

Would like to buy brand new rotors for this conversion, so looking for options.

Thanks!

i had some of those China disks on my previous bike (1997 Suzuki TL1000), they worked perfectly, i also was a bit reluctant on using those, but after lots of searching on bad reviews, i couldnt find any, only hearsay, i did find plenty of pictures of broken/sheared Galfers,Braking EBC and Brembo disks.. all after heavy use on a race track i might add..

but on an old GS?? i would put those on in a heartbeat...

OK, not wanting to risk those "inexpensive" aftermarket rotors, I have found myself a set of the 99-2000 CBR600F4 Stock rotors that appear to be in good shape on ebay.

Ordered some ECB Kevlar Pads for same.

Got the black powder-coated brackets this weekend (Thanks, Salty-Monk!).

Also received my 1988 Ninja 750 Calipers in fine condition.

Need to look over the calipers carefully to see if they need rebuilding (most likely will anyhow), but otherwise, I think I have everything now to do this update.

Quick Question for those here who might have experience with some of the aftermarket rotors listed on Ebay... The ones sourced from Hong Kong, etc.

They look cool... but are these substandard materials and should they be avoided?

Would like to buy brand new rotors for this conversion, so looking for options.

Thanks!

[salty_monk]

Few people asking for this.

Step by step would be:


1. Bolt rotor spacers to CBR rotors using 2x6mm bolts & nuts. Make sure central.
2. Drill the Suzuki bolt pattern using an 8mm or eq drill in a drill press.
3. Mount rotors on the wheel (spacer between the rotor & the hub) using original 6 x M8 Suzuki bolts each side. (check direction - rotors have arrows on them)
4. Mount the caliper bracket to the fork using the bottom bolt nearest the leg only (you need to find a nut & bolt for this, 8mm x 45mm if you put lock washer on outside of bracket, 8 x 40mm may be ok without the washer (for steel brackets only). Fine thread is best for "anti shake loose" if you can find it, use loctite too).
5. Cut 4mm off of the top of the speedo drive dust cover (looks like a "top hat" in profile, cut the top off of the hat). (Some older models don't need this as the cover is already short enough - usually bike with the riveted rotors as stock).
6. Mount the wheel back in the forks, tighten axle etc.
7. Mount the caliper to the top bolt
8. slide in the spacer for the bottom bolt & put that bolt in (Should be able to use stock bolts here - Steel brackets only)
9. Make sure all lines up & tighten to stock torque figures (use loctite).
10. Check clearances. The rotor rivets are usually closest point to the lower bolt. You should have 3mm plus each side & should be the same.
11. Bleed brakes
12. Check clearances & brake function (bike on jack so you can spin it).
13. Walk bike & check again
14. Ride it - take it easy till you're happy that everything is tight, clearances are good. Remember brakes need to bed in etc.

[salty_monk]

Have a few more sets if anyone is in need. Powdercoated black.

[salty_monk]

I'll PM you back. Depending on how quickly you want them I may be able to bring a set over in a couple of months... I'll be in the South East.

More brackets on the shelf if anyone needs them. $86 shipped in the US.

I'm looking for a set if you still have any. I have the CBR900 rotors, the twin pot calipers and they are going on a 78 GS1000HC. I live in the UK.

[salty_monk]

Remind me of the situation, bike, fork etc. The equation should be pretty simple - put the wheel on the axle with no spacers. Centre the rim between the fork legs. Measure between the bearing face & the fork leg on each side. That's the length of spacer you need on each side.

When you get the rim central the rotors should follow therefore you then have to work out how far they need to be offset to centralise between the pad area on the caliper. In theory that distance should be the spacer that I gave you but if it's not (because you are mix & matching from memory) then I might be able to see a way around it. I have some odd sizes from early experiments somewhere on the shelf.