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Twinpot Brake upgrade on 78 Skunk
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The Ninja MC is a 14mm (aka Ninja 250) if you use one or 5/8" (aka bigger ninja, concourse etc) if you use two...
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Originally posted by Chuck78 View PostYes you will definitely benefit with just one side on a 750, as you will be getting twice the swept area and be going from 295 mm rotor up to 310mm. You need a 98 - 99 CBR900RR rotor to do this. And you just need the caliper bracket, you do not need the rotor spacer as that rotor already has 23 mm offset.
I would definitely recommend getting a good brand new set of pads and a stainless steel brake line if you are just going single-disc, you will want every bit of performance you can get. This setup is plenty adequate for a GS 550 which is about 50 pounds lighter than your 750.
How about MC bore size? I've got a 14mm aftermarket MC for the stock system. What is the piston volume of the Ninja caliper?
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Yes you will definitely benefit with just one side on a 750, as you will be getting twice the swept area and be going from 295 mm rotor up to 310mm. You need a 98 - 99 CBR900RR rotor to do this. And you just need the caliper bracket, you do not need the rotor spacer as that rotor already has 23 mm offset.
I would definitely recommend getting a good brand new set of pads and a stainless steel brake line if you are just going single-disc, you will want every bit of performance you can get. This setup is plenty adequate for a GS 550 which is about 50 pounds lighter than your 750. If you are riding a 750 really aggressively and on very twisty roads, or if you have a lot of big hills around, a dual disk would still be beneficial to keep them running cooler and not have to suffer from anywhere near the amount of brake fade when the rotor(s) get hot.
On a race bike, dual discs are also beneficial as then you have the fork twisting forces somewhat equalized since both fork legs are trying to twist under the braking force.
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I'm not sure if this has been discussed before in this thread but I have searched the best I can and can't find anything. Basically what I want to know is if there is any benefit to the twin-pot caliper on only one side? I'd kinda like to keep the look of the single rotor with spokes on the 78 Gs750 but would also like better braking performance. Common sense tells me that there should be some improvement with a larger swept area but is it worth it? If so how about MC size for a single caliper? Stock rotor or aftermarket?
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Thanks Chuck. Just wanted a sanity check.
Originally posted by johnod View PostWhy should they be identical?
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Should be identical parts...
Good to know the Kaw stuff is for rich people & Mr Suzuki prices parts for the common people, THANKS!
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Thanks for the answers.
One more question: is there any reason a Suzuki piston and seal rebuild kit (from a GS500 or GSX1100G) wouldn't work on a Kawasaki caliper? I tore down my Kawasaki calipers to inspect them and was planning to replace the seals and dust seals, but at least one of the pistons has some minor pitting. The Kawasaki piston and seal set is about $50 per piston ($100 per caliper), and the Suzuki set is under $40 per caliper. The calipers are identical (as far as I can tell), so the Suzuki kit should work in the Kawasaki caliper, right?
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Entering comments in quote below with a ****
Originally posted by hannibal View PostI know 10.9 steel hardware is recommended for the calipers and brackets. I need to source the bolts that hold the rotor to the wheel hub. Should I use 10.9 steel or stainless for these?
**** I have used Stainless before but made sure it was a decent A2-70 grade. 8.8 or 10.9 regular steel would be better.
Edit: my bike has a thin plastic spacer between the hub and rotor (#16 in the diagram). I assume I ditch this and just use the metal spacer from the kit since the dual disc bikes don't have the plastic spacer. Correct?
**** CORRECT
Do you guys use the "washers" (#15) on the rotor bolts as well?
**** YES
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Originally posted by 2whldreams View PostG
The aftermarket now has cost effective alternatives for new rotors. Are there brand new (Asashi?) rotor, rotor carrier, and buttons that can be recommended that don't require drilling modifications? Part numbers would be helpful. Ebay is such a crap shoot.
Thank you for your time
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I know 10.9 steel hardware is recommended for the calipers and brackets. I need to source the bolts that hold the rotor to the wheel hub. Should I use 10.9 steel or stainless for these?
Edit: my bike has a thin plastic spacer between the hub and rotor (#16 in the diagram). I assume I ditch this and just use the metal spacer from the kit since the dual disc bikes don't have the plastic spacer. Correct?
Do you guys use the "washers" (#15) on the rotor bolts as well?
Last edited by hannibal; 08-13-2018, 05:10 PM.
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Guest repliedGreeting's. Salty's original inspiration 10 years ago to upgrade the caliper's and rotors for the GS series motorcycles used CBR rotors and Kaw Concour calipers were the best cost effective options.
The aftermarket now has cost effective alternatives for new rotors. Are there brand new (Asashi?) rotor, rotor carrier, and buttons that can be recommended that don't require drilling modifications? Part numbers would be helpful. Ebay is such a crap shoot.
Thank you for your time
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