WTF??? Pilot jet change causes major issue..

[chef1366]

My pilot jets have the holes. Doesn't matter.
No way the bike will run with 45s and not the 47.5s. The jets are funky.

[jacora]

Wrong pilot jets

Hi; Mr. Cafekid:
As mr. blowerbike said your idle problem should be in your pilot jet type.
I had the same problem you are having right now, my bike has wrong pilot jet adjusted (dont know how) in a way that makes the bike works properly until two of them went screwed out making the mixture rich in that two cylinders giving me a hard time. Then when I pulled out the carbs and reinstalled it back the pilot jets up to its seated position it doesnt idle in any way. So I started to search and found I had the wrong pilot jets.

The correct pilot jet type for BS34SS is BS30/96

Actually I am running BS30/96-#55 pilot jets and #135 in the mains with pods and 4 to 1 Vance & Hines (no baffle) it runs super strong, goes in one wheel just at the throttle. I know I am running rich, but still getting 40 MPG and likes to take advantage of gas refrigerating effect, here in Puerto Rico is above 85 F all the year.
I purchased some sets in diferent sizes at:

http://www.preferredpowersports.com/eshopprod_cat_5005-24085-10277_product_626835_keyword_mikuni+AND+pilot+AND+jets.MIKUNI_PILOT_JETS_WITH_FOUR_BL.htm

(cut and paste to your browser)
Good prices and excellent service.

Regarding your gas flooding problem, first check and make sure your floats needles seats are sealing perfect, then after that, set your float levels at 22.4 +/- 1.0 mm, if done correctly you shouldn't have no more problems. If float needle seats are needed, check at preferred power sports too.

Hope this helps to solve your problems
jacora

[trippivot]

buy every part that controls fuel starting at the fuel tank


changing a pilot jet did NOT cause the major issue of a sloppy gas mess

fuel tap packing float needles float seats new seat gaskets

get the proper volume of fuel in the bowls and CONTROL THE FUEL SUPPLY before trying to adjust the jetting.

[TheCafeKid]

buy every part that controls fuel starting at the fuel tank


changing a pilot jet did NOT cause the major issue of a sloppy gas mess

fuel tap packing float needles float seats new seat gaskets

get the proper volume of fuel in the bowls and CONTROL THE FUEL SUPPLY before trying to adjust the jetting.

Tripp, the needle valves are good, the floats are set at stock 22.4 and putting the 45 back in there eliminated the sloppy gas mess...

[rapidray]

Are you ready to try adjusting the mixture screws yet?!!! Ray.

[Kenton]

WTF??? Pilot jet change causes major issue...

I'm not trying to be a smart-ass, but I've seen it going on over at the Triumph Forum. Has anyone ever had any luck with pod filters mounted to CV carbs? I thought CV carbs needed a large volume air box full of "still air" in order to work on a street engine. I don't know, never tried pod filters on CV carbs myself. I just met a guy in town with a GS1000 cafe jobbie that threw up his hands and sold the bike, same scenario. It wouldn't run right. Maybe there were other things at play besides pod filters&CV carbs...

[almarconi]

Has anyone ever had any luck with pod filters mounted to CV carbs?

There are alot of bikes running pod filters with CV carbs. Thats why they make jet kits. It can be a frustrating process to get the carbs tuned..but it is do able.

[49er]

There are alot of bikes running pod filters with CV carbs. Thats why they make jet kits. It can be a frustrating process to get the carbs tuned..but it is do able.

I haven't seen any threads where a member has been completely satisfied with his/her tuning results, after fitting up pods to CV carbs. Some damage their engines, while others accept their fate, never to feedback what really became of their famous tuning adventures.
Many others bang their heads against the proverbial brick wall for months, trying desperately to get rid of that last "little stumble", be it in the idle circuit or the midrange. However, the main jet seldom causes any lasting frustrations.

Pods do work best with slide carbs, which is great, considering that most of our vintage race applications rely on them. If you must to use pods on the street, fit some slides and save the agro.

[TheCafeKid]

Having broken down and installed a dynojet kit I have the bike as good as its gonna get. Mind you that's pretty fing good. There are no definate flat spots thru the rev range and the bike is off like a rocket in any gear tho 5th is the slowest to respond from below 4k. Its not a studder just rolling on doesn't produce the seat of the pants punch that you get out of the lower gears untill you're above 6K. In that gear at above 6K you're fast approaching the ton and the staties around here have been thick so I haven't been much above that mark in the last few days. At any rate the point I'm at now is deciding which of two needle positions I prefer. In the third notch from the bottom the bike is truely happy albeit not as lively as with the clip int the 4th notch from the bottom. However in the 4th notch the bike is a slight bit lean but very mean. If this bike weren't my baby and was just one I meant to thrash on the weekends I'd prolly leave it in 4 but since she's not only my most prized machine of all my GSs and a daily rider I prefer to keep her happy even if a slight and I do mean slight loss of instant blast off is lost. Having said this I will likely never attempt to fix pods to CV Carbs again and truth be told if I had an airbox for this bike it would be on it. I will also never attempt to hand jet a CV bike again if a jet kit is available for it. I've done it a few times with success to VM bikes but I've come to the conclusion that CVs and pods are like that newlywed couple that everyone thought was perfect for eachother untill they actually got married. Lol.

[trippivot]

Tripp, the needle valves are good, the floats are set at stock 22.4 and putting the 45 back in there eliminated the sloppy gas mess...

I am re reading thru this thread pods better for round slide carbs than CVs'
HA HA HA HA oh man you guys are entertaining!!

engine damage , frustration , flat spots in the rev range , changing a pilot jet and gas running out of the engine , a partial value for the float height , and the best one yet

the bike just doesn't pull 5 gear like 2nd or 3rd below 4K rpm --- why not just take off from a standing start in 5 gear HA HA HA HA

mechanical advantage and "seat of the pants" feel is different in every gear.


now for the kicker!!!
what are the weather conditions like when you are doing these stoichiometric ratio changes?? WHY is no body is recording the atmospheric conditions when these changes are being made???!!??

yes friends the:
1. humidity %
2.barometric pressure
3. temperature
4. density altitude

ALL effect the way your stage 3 jetting runs the engine.-and change DAILY!! so the tune up should change _ _ _ _ _ (daily)

one day the bike is great and the next it runs bad
you need to re tune the mixture screws and needle height settings every time the weather changes.

the pods and stg 3 is a modification full of compromises (get something - give something)

The air box is basicly a dynamic dampener for atmospheric changes to create a bigger "window" for common tuning.

tuning a set of carbs and NOT recording the atmosphere is really hurting your success of getting a machine to run right.

like pushing a rope up a set of stairs.... you can spend a lifetime trying

oh man I have only been tuning for 20 years and I still haven't heard them all...

[trippivot]

1 more hint from trippivot


exhaust gas temperature


it is a reading taken from a specific tool that reads the temperature from the ex-pipes

500~650 too lean

180~250 too rich

degrees F along with a weather station is needed for a smooth running stg 3 equipped motorcycle.



try tuning a helicopter !! everyday is a tuning session before the mission- flight. do it like you guys and meet ST.Peter in a quickness

[TheCafeKid]

Whatever tripp..we're not all masters like you bro. We also dont run at the track and have time to tune the bike every friggen day due to atmospheric conditions.


For what its worth for the rest of us "non perfects" out there, MY bike runs like a champ, wet, dry, day or night with the set up i have now. Is it perfect? Nope. But its not a race bike, not meant to be, its a daily rider that is tuned well enough to keep me entertained. Of course, i dont look for 60ft times, trap times, or any of that crap because that means ZILCH to me. So you go on with your bad self and your 20 years of experience, tune up those machines man! I'll be out riding...

[trippivot]

ok cafe kid, I see you spout bad information A LOT !!!!

at least I can explain WHY all these bikes are running off of the mark


change a pilot jet and a gassy mess appears WHAT A COMEDIAN !!!

go headon with your bad self!!!

another original HAHA

[TheCafeKid]

ok cafe kid, I see you spout bad information A LOT !!!!

at least I can explain WHY all these bikes are running off of the mark


change a pilot jet and a gassy mess appears WHAT A COMEDIAN !!!

go headon with your bad self!!!

another original HAHA

For starters, I never ONCE claimed to be a carb guru or master or anything of the like. Hence the reason for my questions here. Frankly, I understand that the bike will be subject to atmospheric conditions, its an unknown variable and MY POINT in this thread is that *MY* bike runs acceptably TO ME with the set up I have now. I dont care about all the technical specifics as to why or why not, because at this point it doesnt seem to effect the bike as much as it did BEFORE I installed the jet kit. I can point you to at least THREE people on this board who've just as much experience as you, if not more, running drag bikes, tuning performance machines who will plainly state that the pilot jets with the airation holes in them wont work with the carbs that DIDNT HAVE THEM. The 47.5 i have may or may NOT have been drilled out, I cannot tell by looking at them, but they simply didnt work on a bike that was running and idling just fine with the 45s in them, and when i put the 45s BACK in the bike it again ran and idled just fine. Still does. Any "bad" information i may "spout" is only what ive either learned from here, or thru my own trial and error. The bikes are running "off the mark" because pods and CVs are simply not a good match. Anyone here can tell you that. Its been said a billion times. Again, HAD I AN AIRBOX for the bike, it would be on it. But, I aquired the bike without said airbox, so I am making it run the best i can as it sits. And, I must say, whether you care to believe it or not, i could care less, it runs pretty damn good at this point. Perfect? Nope. I dont have the time nor the inclination nor the equipment or "skills" to make it run "perfect" Is it more powerfull than stock? Having ridden an 1100ED to compare it against that is stock, Id say most assuredly. My plugs are in good colour, my temps at the pipes are within guidelines, and the throttle response is smooth throughout the powerband. Works for me.

[hp1000s]

I'm gonna' sorta' jump into the middle-ground here:
Bought a brand new '82 Kaw GPz750(CV carbs) as a left-over in '84. Bought pods/Supertrapp 4-1with disks/Dynajet kit. Previously, I'd jetted numerous cars & boats with a variety of 4bbl carbs, but never a multi-carb motor. I followed the DJ kit instructions to the letter, and only had to raise the needle one increment...good-to-go with a great result. It CAN work fine, and it doesn't take 20 years of jetting experince to get a "suitable" (for most folks) result. With the seeming wealth of CV jetting problems around here, I'd guess it's more than likely due to lots of motors with issues outside of the actual carb setup: i.e. compression, valve adj., weak and/or ill-timed spark, leaky exh. gaskets, etc. The experience factor, is being able to recognize the difference.