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What the fastest way to clean caked on carbon?

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    #16
    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
    Did you remove the pistons? If so, dump them in carb dip, it will remove the carbon.
    +1 soak them for a few days, scrub with wire brush soak again. Otherwise walnut shells. you can try some berrymens b-12 or what ever fuel addative that is suppost to remove carbon from valves as you run it, let it soak a bit and see what happens.
    78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
    82 Kat 1000 Project
    05 CRF450x
    10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike

    P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.

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      #17
      my exhaust port had 1/8" thick carbon caked on that just flaked off when touched, I just left it? You guys's bikes give mine a complex

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        #18
        I used a brass wire cup brush in a cordless drill.

        Before:


        During:


        First one done:


        After:


        .
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        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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          #19
          It's funny to read this thread. An old mechanic once told me that you should always leave a layer of carbon on old pistons. Has anybody else ever heard this?

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            #20
            It's funny to read this thread. An old mechanic once told me that you should always leave a layer of carbon on old pistons. Has anybody else ever heard this?
            That will never work .

            The pics of your port job just wont be very impressive with carbon flaking off everywhere.

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              #21
              So water really works on a running motor bike? Never knew, I just figured you were taking a jab-things that make you go hmmmm... That good to know.

              It looks like the walnut shell way is the easiest (no srubbing, scratching). When you say you have to get under the valves, does that mean I need a valve spring compressor too ($135.00) to get under there-or am I using crouching tiger-kicking dragon thumb power to hold it down long enough to get under there? I plan on checking all the valves. This will be my first inspection/gauging and adjustment (if needed). Is this a tool I'll need anyway, or is there some old mechanic's trick to safely remove them.

              I guess I can just rent a big compressor one day (cheaper than convincing the off duty supervisor that I need one-hey, pick your battles right?) and pick up a HF/Ebay media blaster, along with 50# of walnut.

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                #22
                Do you need a "special" blaster for SODA? It seems most of Harbor Freights blasters say "Use with walnut shell, glass bead, or aluminum oxide abrasive media "?

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                  #23
                  One more "Been there done that" thread

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by oshanac View Post
                    Do you need a "special" blaster for SODA? It seems most of Harbor Freights blasters say "Use with walnut shell, glass bead, or aluminum oxide abrasive media "?
                    You don't need a special blaster for soda, but be aware that it can clump and clog with moisture. It would probably be best with an in-line dryer, but it seems to me that you can compensate for it by running the larger orifice nozzle. Clean it out afterwards too, particularly if you're using one of the handheld hopper guns like the Speed Blaster. I managed to clog a cheapo, non-serviceable, Princess Auto siphon-feed hopper gun.

                    I've had some success using a siphon parts-washer blow gun as a soda blaster. It's a cheap way to try it out and see if it's something you want to continue doing. The idea is the same as this http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-o.../soda_blaster/, but you can buy cheap blow guns with a T for the siphon hose.

                    One machine shop guy I know always burns off and crisps up the carbon on pistons and cylinder heads, then soda blasts off the remainder. (Soda blasting seems to work best at removing hard bits, rather than soft or oily). He uses an oxyacetylene torch to get the carbon glowing, then leans out the flame with the oxygen to get it to burn off. I haven't tried that yet with my MAPP gas and oxygen brazing torch, but plan to when I get around to buying an oxygen refill.

                    - Richard

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                      #25
                      WATER DOES WORK, I have done that method a dozen times with 100% satisfaction.
                      Anyway, if you have the head off, you pay shipping both ways, send it to me and I'll glass bead it and I'll even take the valves out too and regrind them back in and it will look like new inside and out.

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                        #26
                        I agree with Phil

                        That media blasting will clean the head better than wallnut shells. I just don't think (and have been told) you should NOT blast the seats unless you plan on grinding them. The wallnuts do little if any damage and can be used right on seats and only lapping afterwards.

                        Pos

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
                          Too bad you can't still get carbon tetrachloride. Some gun cleaners used to be basically the same as carbon tet and Energine Spot Remover was too. Not anymore though. I have a can of carbon tet I'm saving in case I ever have a special need for it.
                          Best get that can down to the Bank Vault now that you have told everyone you have it.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by GrampsUK View Post
                            Best get that can down to the Bank Vault now that you have told everyone you have it.
                            Marvelous stuff, just have to be careful using it.

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                              #29
                              ahh just leave it on there
                              a quick and cheap way of increasing your compression haha

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                                #30
                                Thank you so much FEELERGAUGEPHIL for the offer! I really want to to the whole thing myself though. Just a note, I had the head upside down in my garage. On the chamber side (valve side) I had one with Goo-Bee-Gone BBQ cleaner, one with Engine Degreaser, one with carb cleaner. Believe it on not-just lightly scratching it, the BBQ cleaner (it's a gel) is kicking azz! I'm sure it won't look anywhere near as good as other methods, but hey-its less walnut shells to use!

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