Slipping or jumping close to redline?

[mpls-ugly]

I recently put EMGO Pods and modified straight pipes with a baffle on My 82 GS 650 GL and also went with a dyno jet kit for it. Im in the process of tuning but I have one problem that I cant really get a grasp on.

sometimes but not all the time, When Im accelerating hard at WOT and near Redline about 9,000 rpm the bike slips like i hit the clutch and revs up fast as the power is not going to the wheel. if you back off it is still in the gear you were in and the clutch dosn't slip any other time. What could this be? I can avoid this by being easier on it and rolling the throttle instead of cracking it or shifting right at 9000 but I want to know what is happening so I can fix it.

Any Ideas? Test I can do to figure this out??

Thanks in advance.

[salty_monk]

Your clutch is slipping.. simple.

Pull it out & check the fibres or the steels are not out of spec. If not then rough up the steels before you put them back in & either purchase brand new OEM springs or get some cheaper aftermarket EBC or similar (Z1 enterprises has them) & use half of them with half your existing stock ones (you can use them all but it will make the clutch really heavy to pull).

You can do it with bike on side stand, no need to drain oil although you might lose a few drips (put something on floor below it).

Dan

[49er]

I recently put EMGO Pods and modified straight pipes with a baffle on My 82 GS 650 GL and also went with a dyno jet kit for it. Im in the process of tuning but I have one problem that I cant really get a grasp on.

sometimes but not all the time, When Im accelerating hard at WOT and near Redline about 9,000 rpm the bike slips like i hit the clutch and revs up fast as the power is not going to the wheel. if you back off it is still in the gear you were in and the clutch dosn't slip any other time. What could this be? I can avoid this by being easier on it and rolling the throttle instead of cracking it or shifting right at 9000 but I want to know what is happening so I can fix it.

Any Ideas? Test I can do to figure this out??

Thanks in advance.

Do you have a service manuel? They are invaluable.

Your clutch springs need replacing. They get sad after many years of compression. Just buy a new stock set and fit them up.

While you've got it apart, check the condition of the clutch discs, both metal and fibre and make sure they are still in spec. Check the metal ones for warpage. If they are out of tolerance, replace them, If in spec, clean them up by roughing up their surfaces with medium grade wet and dry paper to take any glazing off, caused by slippage. Make sure you clean them well with a solvent, and blow dry with compressed air. Do a visual of the clutch basket for signs of excessive wear in the are where the metal discs slide. If grooves have caused lumps in the aluminium guides, use a fine file to carefully smooth them out, before re-assembly. Be sure to thoroughly clean the area of metal particles, and luibe well at re-assembly. It is easier to work on those grooves after you have removed the basket assy from the bike.

Good luck.

[mpls-ugly]

Thanks!

Thanks, thats just the info I needed. I forgot about this post but I do appreciate it.

Thanks

[atb1998]

It could also be a simple clutch cable being out of whack.. did you move your controls or change handlebars? How much play is your clutch? does it come most of the way out before engaging? Check that first. a cable is less than 20.oo and easy to replace

[49er]

Thanks, thats just the info I needed. I forgot about this post but I do appreciate it.

Thanks

You're welcome. So what needed replacing/adjusting?

[chef1366]

It is a shafty right?

[49er]

It is a shafty right?

Double trouble, it's an "L" too!!

[jimfj]

I don't mean to hijack this in any way but I had the same problem with my 850. I replaced 3 of the 6 clutch springs (because six made it feel like I needed two hands to pull the lever) and this cured the problem partially.

I thought this scenario was all due to weakend clutch springs, not so. I found a slight carberation glitch after 7000 - 7500 rpm. It pulls like a banshee but there is a "softer" spot right in this range. She will still charge through to redline and beyond if i'm not carefull. I am wondering if I have a float height that needs adjusting or, if, to really make it perfect, I would need to jump up just a little in jetting.

I shimmed my needles and the low and midrange is outstanding.

This all isn't a huge worry for me because shifting at redline isn't something I try to do on a regular basis, but I did fix the slipping while accelerating getting on to the highway.

Jim

[mpls-ugly]

Just to clear some things up. Its is a shaft drive and I have a new cable and it's all adjusted properly. What I'm doing is replacing the springs and fiber plates. I like the idea of replacing fewer springs. I will put them on order tonight. I was just going to order OEM from bike bandit for a couple bucks a pc. unless there is something better? I'll let people know what happens.

I don't know about your carb issues you may want to do sets of plug chops at specific rpm ranges to really so you know what to go after or what might be natural bumps in the powerband. My bike runs a little odd at times but hey its a 650 who knows how much guts it should do having me on it at 6'3" 230Lbs. So i figure it dose well enough. I cant say for a 850.

[mpls-ugly]

Sorry to reactivate this thread but Im a little stuck. I replaced all 6 springs and all the friction plates and Im still having a bit of a problem. The jumping isn't nearly as bad as it was but it is still jumping at about 8k (redline starts at 9.5k on 650) This isn't too bad and I could probably just ride accordingly but i know it will slip when I snap it in the top 1/2 of the rmp range. What do I do? Do i need to get aftermarket springs that are a little heavier?

I also think Jimfj may be on to something with the carb work. I recently did pods and a pipe with a stage III jet kit and may not have it perfectly tuned but how am I going to select me main jet and start tuning appropriately if i can run the bike wide open? My bike dose slow a little around 7-8k and if it was to get out of that power slump in a burst it may make the clutch jump. I cant imagine that the OEM springs are this week because I think thy re the same for bigger bike too.

Ideas?

[chef1366]

I'd check the wave washer behind all the fibers and steels.

[mpls-ugly]

I'd check the wave washer behind all the fibers and steels.

I suppose I can just order the wave washer and see if that cures it. It looks like there is only one wave washer in the assembly correct? I think for another $12 Ill go ahead and put in the aftermarket tougher springs while Im at it. I know it will make the lever pull harder but Im fine with that. I hope this is my last question... Do I need another new gasket for the cover or can I reuse the one I put on two days ago?

Thanks in advance.

[reddirtrider]

I suppose I can just order the wave washer and see if that cures it. It looks like there is only one wave washer in the assembly correct? I think for another $12 Ill go ahead and put in the aftermarket tougher springs while Im at it. I know it will make the lever pull harder but Im fine with that. I hope this is my last question... Do I need another new gasket for the cover or can I reuse the one I put on two days ago?

Thanks in advance.

If you lightly coated it with a thin film of oil, then it will probably come off ok and you can reuse. If you put it on dry, then it's a crap shoot.

[mpls-ugly]

If you lightly coated it with a thin film of oil, then it will probably come off ok and you can reuse. If you put it on dry, then it's a crap shoot.

Thanks, I did oil that puppy.