Replacing stock coils on GS1000

[jskellington]

I'm replacing the stock coils on a 1978 GS1000 with Dyna units and I've got a couple of questions for anyone who's made this modification.

In removing the gas tank to get a look at the stock units, I encountered the gas guage sensor wire. How does one go about separating the connectors, the ones sheathed in translucent yellow plastic, so you can get the tank out of the way?

And once I get the tank off, how difficult is it to unsolder the primary wires coming from the coils and then resolder them to the ring terminals supplied by Dyna?

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

Jack

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The 2 wires for the guage just pull apart, if they are stock male/ female connectors. Pull on the connector where it clamps around the wire, not on the wire itself. Unless someone has connected them with a 'tube' connector they should come apart. As for your primary wires being soldered, my wires came from the factory connected to the coils with screws. And my Dyna coils used the existing wiring/screws. If they give you new ring connectors they are intended to be used with screws, not soldered. If you actually mean the plug wires, yes, the stock coil/plug wire is a unit. The new Dyna's require you to replace the plug wires and they twist into the coil, or you can cut and do the same to the stock wires if you want. I replaced mine with some silicone wires I thought were better. This is what I did 3 years ago and I don't think the Dyna coils have changed since.

[terry]

I just fitted some 3 ohm (green) dyna coils to my '81 GS1000ST and I know what you mean about de-soldering the original low tension wires, don't worry about de-soldering them, just cut them off, and crimp or solder them to the ring terminals, they'll work fine.

You can use either wire or silicon leads, I used 8mm silicon high tension leads (plug wires) from an auto parts store, they were cheap at $10.00 for four, but if you want to spend more for pretty much the same quality, Dyna, accel and a few other brand name companies will sell you a set for 3 or 4 times that much money.

You didn't mention what sort of ignition you're running, I know that the '78 model ran points and condensors, so if you're still running the stock ignition spend the dough and get yourself a dyna S or dyna 3 ignition, and once set up and timed, you'll probably never need to touch it again. :twisted:

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm just curious. What are these 'ring terminals' on the Dyna's? 3 years ago my new Dyna's (green-3 ohm) had a pin inside a cavity that you twisted the plug wire into and then tightened down with a threaded cap. No soldering or crimping. And my NGK plug caps just twist on also.

[Anonymous]

I just fitted some 3 ohm (green) Dyna coils to my '81 GS1000ST and I know what you mean about de-soldering the original low tension wires, don't worry about de-soldering them, just cut them off, and crimp or solder them to the ring terminals, they'll work fine.

You can use either wire or silicon leads, I used 8mm silicon high tension leads (plug wires) from an auto parts store, they were cheap at $10.00 for four, but if you want to spend more for pretty much the same quality, Dyna, accel and a few other brand name companies will sell you a set for 3 or 4 times that much money.

You didn't mention what sort of ignition you're running, I know that the '78 model ran points and condensors, so if you're still running the stock ignition spend the dough and get yourself a dyna S or dyna 3 ignition, and once set up and timed, you'll probably never need to touch it again. :twisted:

Speaking of wires, I just bought a set of axel universal 7mm wires for a v8 and paid less than $20 there is enough for 2 4 cylinder engines there. i thought that Dyna greens used 7mm wires also. I dont remember. i bought the 7 mm wires for my yammy.

[terry]

You're right Scotty, the Dyna green coils will take anything from 7mm wires through to 8.8mm, allowing anything from the original suzy wires thru to the latest silicon stuff.

I've got a set of old Martek "Blue Goose" coils in a box in my garage for my GS750 when I get time to hook it all up, but I'm a bit confused as I don't have a wiring diagram for these, I'm hoping that one of them is just an earth (probably the terminal on it's own at one end and the two at the other end are the 12V power and signal wire from the ignition.

If anyone has any info on these coils, I'd appreciate their advice also. :twisted:

[Anonymous]

You're right Scotty, the Dyna green coils will take anything from 7mm wires through to 8.8mm, allowing anything from the original suzy wires thru to the latest silicon stuff.

I've got a set of old Martek "Blue Goose" coils in a box in my garage for my GS750 when I get time to hook it all up, but I'm a bit confused as I don't have a wiring diagram for these, I'm hoping that one of them is just an earth (probably the terminal on it's own at one end and the two at the other end are the 12V power and signal wire from the ignition.

If anyone has any info on these coils, I'd appreciate their advice also. :twisted:

Maybe if that odd terminal is a ground, it will show continuity with the mounting bolts and not be connected in any way to the primary side of the coil???

[terry]

I'm just curious. What are these 'ring terminals' on the Dyna's? 3 years ago my new Dyna's (green-3 ohm) had a pin inside a cavity that you twisted the plug wire into and then tightened down with a threaded cap. No soldering or crimping. And my NGK plug caps just twist on also.

Keith, we are talking about the low tension leads mate, not the plug leads. The low tension leads (signal and 12V) are mounted to screws on each coil via ring terminals. You're quite right about how the plug leads mount, that hasn't changed.

[terry]

Maybe if that odd terminal is a ground, it will show continuity with the mounting bolts and not be connected in any way to the primary side of the coil???[/quote]

OK Scotty, I'll get the multimeter out and blow the cobwebs off it, ha ha!

[Anonymous]

Has anybody used the Plug ends with the red window that flashes with the spark? It shows you if you are getting a strong and consistant spark. It would also add a little flare to the bike at night. And they are a hell of a lot cheaper than the spark plug neons they sell for big twins.

[terry]

Has anybody used the Plug ends with the red window that flashes with the spark? It shows you if you are getting a strong and consistant spark. It would also add a little flare to the bike at night. And they are a hell of a lot cheaper than the spark plug neons they sell for big twins.

Where can I get some? Sounds like something I could use? :twisted:

[Anonymous]

I beleive they are in the JC Whitney motorcycle catalog.

[Dink]

The problem with such things is that they do short out your spark, they may look "cool" but are not recommended. Remember anything that lights up is going to consume energy that could be better used suppling horsepower.
Dink

[Anonymous]

I think I disagree. There is always spark isn't there? It's just behind black rubber instead of clear rubber. Well maybe not. Actually I am not sure now that I think about it more, the spark would be in the motor not where the plug meets the wire. Oh hell I don't know. I think it would still look really cool at night!

[terry]

Interesting subject this. My cousin, who is a bike mechanic laughed at me years ago when I bought a "solid state" ignition amplifier, that plugs in between the distributor and coil on my car. I was impressing one of my friends with the increased spark with this thing, anyway, he took it off, then held the plug lead about half an inch from the plug and guess what? The spark was just as bright!

He explained to me that my "solid state" ignition thingy was in fact just an "air gap". If you've got a bike with a suspect coil producing a weak spark, by holding the lead a quarter to half inch away from the plug will actually improve the spark. So going back to your sparking cap gimmick, (which I still want but haven't found yet) more than likely they are once again an "air gap" and I can't see that they'd be anything but good, and if anything, might improve the performance of the ignition.