'80 GS1100E rebuild

[rapidray]

Go to a bearing house & get bearings that have the correct OD for the wheel & hub & the correct ID for the Bandit axle. You shouldn't have a problem finding the bearing or the seals. You could also machine a sleeve to go inside the wheel for the axle to just slide into if you can't get the correct bearings & dust seals. Don't forget to make a new bearing spacer for inside the wheel if you change the bearings. Either way will work but I would rather change to bearings to Bandit axle size if possible. Ray.

[cavehamster]

Go to a bearing house & get bearings that have the correct OD for the wheel & hub & the correct ID for the Bandit axle. You shouldn't have a problem finding the bearing or the seals. You could also machine a sleeve to go inside the wheel for the axle to just slide into if you can't get the correct bearings & dust seals. Don't forget to make a new bearing spacer for inside the wheel if you change the bearings. Either way will work but I would rather change to bearings to Bandit axle size if possible. Ray.

Yeah, I'd rather have the bearing on the axle than a sleeve. I'll dig around on this and see what I can find out.

[SqDancerLynn1]

I don't know if they can help, I would contact www.AllBallsRacing.com ?
tell them what you doing

[posplayr]

Last night, I used the CNC to machine up some new tophat spacers for the swingarm.



Anyway, your feedback and suggestions are always welcome.

U might wanna take a look at these pics.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=956387&postcount=52

Also as I recall the original spacer made by Katman were 6mm and 6mm which allowed about 0.5mm for slop to make it easier to install.

The new spacers were 10.5 mm and 2mm which took up the 0.5mm slop so the hat on the chain side was a little thicker. I did eventually have to file the Por-15 paint off the frame at the swing arm bearing surfaces of the frame as that paint is real thick. Loosened up the motor mount and some gentle persuasion and it slipped in. I went with 18x4.5", 170/60-18 rear but the 180/55-17 seemed to fit as well. Of course tolerances are much closer there. The closest potential interference I have is the chain when deflected by hand will rub on the frame on one of the lower peg mounts bosses. This could be easily cut back if desired as it is only visible when laying on the ground. The 80-82 GS1100E's all have different peg mounts and the brake knuckle is also different to the 83 GS1100ED so might not apply.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=944934&postcount=33

[cavehamster]

I don't know if they can help, I would contact www.AllBallsRacing.com ?
tell them what you doing

Looks like the 6304-2RS from them will fit, which turns out to be a pretty generic and common size. Woot! Should be able to source some for under $10 each.

Need to see if I still need to use a spacer tube inside the rim or not, hmmm...

[cavehamster]

U might wanna take a look at these pics.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=956387&postcount=52

Also as I recall the original spacer made by Katman were 6mm and 6mm which allowed about 0.5mm for slop to make it easier to install.

The new spacers were 10.5 mm and 2mm which took up the 0.5mm slop so the hat on the chain side was a little thicker. I did eventually have to file the Por-15 paint off the frame at the swing arm bearing surfaces of the frame as that paint is real thick. Loosened up the motor mount and some gentle persuasion and it slipped in. I went with 18x4.5", 170/60-18 rear but the 180/55-17 seemed to fit as well. Of course tolerances are much closer there. The closest potential interference I have is the chain when deflected by hand will rub on the frame on one of the lower peg mounts bosses. This could be easily cut back if desired as it is only visible when laying on the ground. The 80-82 GS1100E's all have different peg mounts and the brake knuckle is also different to the 83 GS1100ED so might not apply.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...4&postcount=33

I saw that pic. I decided I wanted to replace the top hats with new ones rather than put bushings in the old ones. We'll see if that is the right approach or not, I'm not sure of the loading these guys see, but I think the 6061 aluminum will be alright for it.

3mm on one side and 11 on the other was a tight fit. There is no slop at all, what with the spacer tube in the middle of the swing arm and all. I'm going with a 17 inch, 5.5 rear, so hopefully I can make it work, otherwise, I'll be headed to a 4.5. I guess I mostly just have it in my head that I want a 180 back there

You went with a 520 chain, correct? I've been reading your threads with great interest, seeing what I can apply.

Also, did you hack up and use the swingarm chain guard the Bandit uses? I think I can make that thing go in there with some healthy cutting, hehe.

Thanks for the info!

[posplayr]

I saw that pic. I decided I wanted to replace the top hats with new ones rather than put bushings in the old ones. We'll see if that is the right approach or not, I'm not sure of the loading these guys see, but I think the 6061 aluminum will be alright for it.

!

Katman's top hat spacers completely replace the Bandit bushings and reduce the ID down to the GS swing arm bolt OD which is 20mm. He makes his out of SS. The extra step fits into the inner spacer. The total stack height is pretty critical as per the discussion by Tone.

3mm on one side and 11 on the other was a tight fit. There is no slop at all, what with the spacer tube in the middle of the swing arm and all. !

I bet 14mm was a challenge; on my ED the 12.5mm total was a very tight fit.

You went with a 520 chain, correct? I've been reading your threads with great interest, seeing what I can apply.

Also, did you hack up and use the swingarm chain guard the Bandit uses? I think I can make that thing go in there with some healthy cutting, hehe.

Thanks for the info!

The 180 fit pretty easy, but I never dealt with the diff in chain alignment and those related clearance issues. One of the primary reasons I stayed with 18" wheels. The fit is just much easier.

As far as chain, you most likely have to use a 520 and moving the swing arm over may introduce some 180 tire clearance issues but should not affect the chain alignment/spacing which the 180 tire will dictate.

Before you get too committed to this you need to get an engine mocked up and determine the counter sprocket offset and rear sprocket offset combination. Typically a 5/8" offset counter sprocket is required for a 180 tire but with the offset swing arm, you will need to figure out the rear spacer for proper wheel alignment.

The only other issue is shock mounts to insure you get the same height (unless you have height adjustable shocks which are many $$$$$) and potential chain guard clearance issues with the shock springs. What shocks you planning on running?

[cavehamster]

Katman's top hat spacers completely replace the Bandit bushings and reduce the ID down to the GS swing arm bolt OD which is 20mm. He makes his out of SS. The extra step fits into the inner spacer. The total stack height is pretty critical as per the discussion by Tone.

I bet 14mm was a challenge; on my ED the 12.5mm total was a very tight fit.

Well, my top hats started out with the small end the same length as the stock Bandit ones, but I ended up knocking a mm or so off that end. The top hats now have about 1/2mm of slack to the actual swingarm, which I may re-address later. They are not touching or stressing the swingarm itself, however. The fit was absolutely perfect, it couldn't have been any larger.

I saw Katman's spacers, and as nice as they are, well... it cost me an evening at the CNC to make mine, and I'm a cheapskate, so.. hehe.

The 180 fit pretty easy, but I never dealt with the diff in chain alignment and those related clearance issues. One of the primary reasons I stayed with 18" wheels. The fit is just much easier.

As far as chain, you most likely have to use a 520 and moving the swing arm over may introduce some 180 tire clearance issues but should not affect the chain alignment/spacing which the 180 tire will dictate.

Before you get too committed to this you need to get an engine mocked up and determine the counter sprocket offset and rear sprocket offset combination. Typically a 5/8" offset counter sprocket is required for a 180 tire but with the offset swing arm, you will need to figure out the rear spacer for proper wheel alignment.

The only other issue is shock mounts to insure you get the same height (unless you have height adjustable shocks which are many $$$$$) and potential chain guard clearance issues with the shock springs. What shocks you planning on running?

For the time being, I am going to run the stockers until the 'ol bank balance allows for a set of Ohlins. I'm aiming to place the swingarm mounts in the same place as the stock swingarm so I can get away with this for the time being. I assume you had a local welding shop weld on your shock tabs? I've got a TIG at work, but unfortunately, not one big enough to weld this much aluminum, so I'm searching for a local shop that can do it. A friend suggested that I put on two mounts for "drag racing and the street", but I'm not so sure I can engineer something that would get out of the way of the shock eyes. I'm counting on the Ohlins later to allow me to set things up better.

I've gotta get a better stand for the bike, maybe I'll put the centerstand back on and use that for the time being, so I can get the engine back in. Offset sprockets look spendy, so I'll probably be staring at that problem as well to see if there is anything interesting I can do to make it so I can use a stock sprocket, but I'll buy one if needed.

I'll hack something up for a chain guard, not sure what just yet. Lots of fun, this hacking it together!

My hub and sprocket should be here early next week and I can make some better attempts at getting things into final position.

[posplayr]

These just popped up in a post by Salty Monk. Alot cheaper than Ohlins if willing to change over to eye to eye.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3702

[cavehamster]

These just popped up in a post by Salty Monk. Alot cheaper than Ohlins if willing to change over to eye to eye.


http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3702

Interesting, however, they state "SHOCK BODY ONLY FOR SPRINGS SEE BELOW". Wonder how much more the springs are?

Thanks for the tip!

[posplayr]

Interesting, however, they state "SHOCK BODY ONLY FOR SPRINGS SEE BELOW". Wonder how much more the springs are?

Thanks for the tip!

full listing:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx?All=True&KeyWords=SEP2009%20suzuki

[cavehamster]

full listing:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/SearchR...P2009%20suzuki

Where did you buy your Ohlins from? I may have to seriously consider the ones you linked, I'd be looking at about $300 vs $600 I think I saw somewhere.... hmmm...

[posplayr]

Where did you buy your Ohlins from? I may have to seriously consider the ones you linked, I'd be looking at about $300 vs $600 I think I saw somewhere.... hmmm...

I did the group by for SU-143's and ebay for the SU-145 equivalents. You are looking at about $1500 for the pair of pairs of shocks.

[cavehamster]

I did the group by for SU-143's and ebay for the SU-145 equivalents. You are looking at about $1500 for the pair of pairs of shocks.

There's my problem, I was assuming that the part number was for the pair. Yeaaaah... looks like I am headed towards the ones you have pointed out. Thanks!

[posplayr]

This may have slipped your attention. The only IKON shock listed at Z-1 that was longer than OEM were the eye to eyes. Alot of guys are running 14.0+" long shocks to quicken the suspension.

The SU-145 are about 350-370mm vs. 330 for the SU-143's which are closer to the 13" OEM's. It is hard for me to tell the net effect (of rear ride height increase) because of all the other tire, suspension changes I made.

You can also bring the mounts in closer to the pivot axis but then that will reduce the leverage and decrease the useful stroke that the springs act at so do this with care. A small amount could be tolerated I'm sure if you wanted to stick to the short 12.8" eye clevis shocks listed.