I have a colourtune plug, very handy for setting up the idle circuit as you can see the effect of changes in idle jets and air screw changes. You can quickly see when a change in idle jet is needed rather than playing with the air screw. A gas analyser would be much better!!
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Dyno Jet kit on my GS1000
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saaz
I haven't played with CV carbs, but I do know that there will be a difference in the way they work with or without the standard airbox. If the jet kit tries to make up for putting on pods, you will probably have to change some parts of jet kit to get it to work with the airbox.
I have a colourtune plug, very handy for setting up the idle circuit as you can see the effect of changes in idle jets and air screw changes. You can quickly see when a change in idle jet is needed rather than playing with the air screw. A gas analyser would be much better!!
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terry
Thanks mate, I'm waiting on my cousin to get his exhaust gas analyser "re-chipped" for ULP, then he'll loan it to me so I can get it right. I won't ride it until I get it right, but that's OK, the weather here in Melbourne is almost as bad as Canberra right now, ha ha! :twisted:
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terry
Hey Thanks JD, Tandy Electronics (Radio Shack in Australia) sell a neat fuel/air sensor kit with both LED and digital readouts for about $35 US, so I'll pick one up on Saturday and get a tech friend to assemble it. Mark suggested the oxygen sensor out of a late model Suzuki car, so I'll pick one of them up from a wrecking yard too.
I'll drill a hole and weld a nut on my pipe for the sensor just past the 4 into 1 collector under the engine (which is different from where Mark said to mount it, but his harleys generally only run one carb so the mixture would be the same in either pipe) and permanently mount the guage where I can read it when adjusting the mixture, so probably under the seat or one of the sidecovers.
Thanks again for the tip mate, have a good weekend! :twisted:
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Anonymous
I would be late in saying this, but for others reading this you should know that it would be better to have a fitting on each pipe not after they have collected. You want a reading for each carb not an average of all four.
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Jeff Tate
One thing I've learned from my jetting experience is that you use all the components that the manufacturer recommends or you'll just be wasting time and flying blind. The biggest reason Jet Kits cost so much is due to the R&D that goes into getting them right. If you wanted to keep the airbox, why didn't you just get the stage 1 kit?
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terry
Originally posted by javajuiceI would be late in saying this, but for others reading this you should know that it would be better to have a fitting on each pipe not after they have collected. You want a reading for each carb not an average of all four.
My cousin ran a small Suzuki dealership for 20 years and used a factory exhaust gas analyser that has a sensor that you just shoved up the end of your pipe, whether you bike has one cylinder or 6, with excellent results, and although he sold his shop years ago, he continues to use the device when tuning one of his own, or friend's bikes.
My 2000 model Toyota Hi-Lux work truck has electronic fuel injection, electronic engine management etc, but only has one sensor located (you guessed it) just after the collector, as were several other modern cars I looked at when I decided to make my own analyser, (I didn't see any with individual sensors?) so I'm assuming that if one is good enough in every other modern vehicle in the country, then why do I need four?
C'mon guys, let's try to keep it real, there's no harm in talking in theoretical terms, but as you can see, I like to actually DO stuff as opposed to just talk about it, and get a result. The end product might not always be as brilliant as the concept, but as long as there is an end result (and not just a lot of hot air) then I'm happy.
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terry
Originally posted by Jeff TateOne thing I've learned from my jetting experience is that you use all the components that the manufacturer recommends or you'll just be wasting time and flying blind. The biggest reason Jet Kits cost so much is due to the R&D that goes into getting them right. If you wanted to keep the airbox, why didn't you just get the stage 1 kit?
There are both advantages and disadvantages when running pods vs the standard airbox on a modified engine, but for me I prefer the standard airbox, albeit with a foam filter rather than the restrictive factory unit.
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Anonymous
Fuel injection is not the same as carbs. Also was it MPI or TBI. Point is if someoine is trying to get max performance it is best to have the carbs tuned and a reading for each carb is better than at or after the collecter. It's not just theory. I thought people should know the downside to an otherwise inexpensive ball park way to tune one's carbs.
Now arguing about the "quench" factor in 16V vs 8v that would be getting into technicalaties that wouldn't aplly to our beloved GS.
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simon lambert
Fuel injection
Fuel injection on a two valve GS sounds interesting..
I have come accross a couple of sets of old GPZ injection units and have tought about it.. Seems that BMW injectors are much better quality..
If I see the parts at the right price I will rethink about it though..
My two bobs worth is that I have always been able to get better performance on the road from mikuni vacum carbs.. I have 2 1000 motors.. one with 34mm vacum mkuni,s the other with the 29mm smooth bores or oval bores as they are called (STD carbs of a 1000ST)
The Vacum carb motor is more tractable and goes harder.. both motors have the same over size pistion kit 1085cc. The vacum carb motor has dialed cams to road race spec.. If I could get the airbox and manifolds to
put vacums on the ST the slide carbs would go.. I have manuals that show 1000ST moels with vacum carbs but the specs say slides..
Regards Simon
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terry
Re: Fuel injection
Originally posted by simon lambertIf I could get the airbox and manifolds to
put vacums on the ST the slide carbs would go.. I have manuals that show 1000ST moels with vacum carbs but the specs say slides..
Regards Simon
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simon lambert
carbs
Well this will be the way I go, I will sell one set of the 29mm slides to finance the change..
In the owners manual I have pics of the 1000ST with CV,s but the part detail has slides.. So it will still be original of sorts..
Mate I have not forgotten the tape either, I have still to get my body work back from the painters.. They have put me back on timing as they have been doing stuff for the Brisbane motor show.. so as soon as I get it back I will send some down.
Regards Simon
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saaz
Simon I have sent an email about the slide carbs, I may be interested. Are they the standard Suzi ones or smoothbores? I thought the standard ones were 28mm or some 30 or 32 slides.
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terry
Re: carbs
Originally posted by simon lambertWell this will be the way I go, I will sell one set of the 29mm slides to finance the change..
In the owners manual I have pics of the 1000ST with CV,s but the part detail has slides.. So it will still be original of sorts..
Mate I have not forgotten the tape either, I have still to get my body work back from the painters.. They have put me back on timing as they have been doing stuff for the Brisbane motor show.. so as soon as I get it back I will send some down.
Regards Simon
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simon lambert
what I did get at the toowoomba swap on the week end was a set of
front mudguard and feul tank tapes (pinstripes) brand new still in the pack.. but they are blue and white..
So if you know anyone that wants 1000ST striping blue and white pass on my contact info..
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