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Gettin doin on my gs1100 gsxr conversion

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    #16
    Originally posted by ironsheik View Post
    New Pics. So I sunk the swingarm bearings too deep and am waiting for a machine shop to press them out to pop in a new set! Everything else has worked out great. Just have to put the rear together.

    Here's the guage bracket I cut out of 1/4" aluminum with a jig saw (!) and had welded. It's been sanded and painted since so it's a little more refined. I'll take pics when it's all together.


    The bike:
    Not to be a party pooper , but the 83 guages mount at an angle to the top of the triple. Of course if the alignment if OK for your sight then not much harm in a more laid back orientation.


    Looks like you are getting real close.

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      #17
      I thought all the rivet master links would be pretty much the same. This came with my DID chain. What would you recommend?

      As for the guages, I had to bend the stock bracket a bit to get them to sit up at an angle. It was a lot easier than making a bracket at an angle. They fit perfectly, you'll see

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        #18
        Originally posted by ironsheik View Post
        I thought all the rivet master links would be pretty much the same. This came with my DID chain. What would you recommend?

        As for the guages, I had to bend the stock bracket a bit to get them to sit up at an angle. It was a lot easier than making a bracket at an angle. They fit perfectly, you'll see
        Bending the bracket?? Now why didnt I think of that?

        I'm running a master link with a clip right now. Not sure what to suggest but the swedged masterlink I used was similar to that one you have.

        I'm doing about 130 hp at the crank and was getting on it a bit and it blew.

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          #19
          Your rivets look fine. What did you use to stake and peen them? If using a chain press, just tighten the press until you feel solid resistance, then back off.

          If those DID ERV3 race chains with the rivet master links can withstand the abuse of a 200+ HP MotoGP bike (think Rossi's M1) then it should be able to handle the power of pretty much any streetbike. If it's properly installed.

          If a rivet master were weaker than a clip, why do all roadracing orgs require clips to be safety wired and siliconed? Rivets are stronger and more reliable by a mile.

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            #20
            It's usually Clip type links that cause a problem not riveted links... I just riveted mine. If done with a proper tool it should be fine.

            Did you find out why yours went Jim? I'm going to carry a clip type in the rear box as a spare just in case.

            Dan
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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              #21
              Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
              It's usually Clip type links that cause a problem not riveted links... I just riveted mine. If done with a proper tool it should be fine.

              Did you find out why yours went Jim? I'm going to carry a clip type in the rear box as a spare just in case.

              Dan
              Great idea Dan. That's an easy one to keep around.

              I used the DID chain rivet/breaker tool. That thing rules! I found one new on Ebay for $90 shipped. I already broke my MotionPro chain breaker.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                It's usually Clip type links that cause a problem not riveted links... I just riveted mine. If done with a proper tool it should be fine.

                Did you find out why yours went Jim? I'm going to carry a clip type in the rear box as a spare just in case.

                Dan
                Dan,
                It might have all be self inflicted. I carried "Get Chain tool" on my list of "things to do "right till the last minute on my build before the Shasta Trip. At the last minute i found a short bolt, beveled the end and used a 12" C clamp to peen the end of the rivet. What I did not like and still don't like is the copper color of the end of the pins. My rivets were nicely rolled back and uniform. I pressed extra hard and it would not budge. It is like there is thin material at the end to roll and the rest of the pin is solid.
                Using the right tool may have helped, but the master looked fine when I was done. It still blew
                Jim

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                  #23
                  IronSheik,

                  Your build is coming along nicely.

                  We ended up with very similar brackets for the gauges.







                  Like Posplayr suggested I put the angle in the bracket.

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                    #24
                    The six pots are fine brakes and look sexy however, the brake feel even with stainless lines wasn't perfect. 6 pots stopped the bike way better than stock brakes (night and day difference) but lacked some feel.

                    Now I have to admit that I use Dot 5 in my brakes so that could be part of it however, when I switched over to 98-99 GSXR 600 Tokico four pots the feel was much better even with the Dot 5.



                    Not quite as sexy to look at, kinda like small breasts but hey I'm a leg man.
                    Last edited by isleoman; 11-16-2009, 10:53 PM.

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                      #25
                      So it seems like my chain isn't lined up too well. It's only about 2mm from the bottom of the spring as you can see in the pic and it rubs just a bit on the lower part of the frame under the swingarm. I still need to line up the wheel but this is pretty close. Maybe the 5/8" offset front sprocket wasn't the way to go?

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                        #26
                        I had this same problem with a 5/8 530 set up , I decided to go with a 520.

                        Here is the before with the 530 rubbing the wheel and the frame



                        Here is the 520 , tight and clean

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                          #27
                          Lots of info and opinions about rear tire conversions on this site. The search button is your friend.

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                            #28
                            Yeah, I've read just about every post available on the conversion. I'm running a 520 DID ERV chain since it's the narrowest. Katman recommended the 5/8" offset and I thought I'd have room to spare with the 520. Hmmmm... Well at least now it's all together. I'll just have to see about spacers and maybe a different offset for the front. Now for some wheel/chain alignment!

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                              #29
                              Make sure the wheel is mounted center in the swing, Katman did my set up as well, what kind of spacing are you using on each sides of rear the wheel?

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
                                Make sure the wheel is mounted center in the swing, Katman did my set up as well, what kind of spacing are you using on each sides of rear the wheel?
                                Yea, the chain alignment an only be done after you are as sure as you can be that the rear wheel is on center. For the stock GS swinger that means that wheel is centered in the swing arm and centered in the frame.

                                With the Bandit arm the numbers are different.

                                I forget what the sprocket side offset is that Katman uses for the 180/55-17 wheel with GS1100 arm (EDIT: 0.490" ; I check my notes Rob?). Then align the front and back wheel (I prefer string method) and see how far your chain in off.

                                It could be an optical illusion but the chain looks deflected.

                                People will argue, but a simple way to check the chain alignment is to put a straight edge on the tire under the chain and see how well the chain aligns with that straight edge. I used a 3 ft construction level and it worked well. In principle you can use the sprocket as well, but sprocket and wheel should be aligned.

                                Tone provided an alignment proceedure a while back.
                                Last edited by posplayr; 11-17-2009, 09:45 PM.

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