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    #16
    Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
    There is a lot of conversation on here regarding this topic and it is all very good useful information. However, I guess I am wondering why it is necessary? I am considering some bracing on my 1100e project but uncertain as to the hows and wheres. IMO some of the scaled up pics look a little overkill and some what bulky.
    I should have weighed all the pieces, but I didn't. I can tell you there is now way there is more than 10 lbs of metal total. I could more than compensate by taking off the center stand if I was going for all out performance.

    These old frames (the design and materials) have a tendency to flex. It's sometimes described as a "hingy" feeling as you feel the frame flex underneath you. during hard acceleration, braking, and when there is a lot of centrifugal force on the bike. The idea (why new bikes heave delta frames) is to as directly tie the headstock to the swingarm pivots as possible. The size and placement of a GS engine limit what you can do. These plans ripped from this site.

    Genetic engineering of an extinct species


    Do about as much as you can with what you have to work with on GS frame.

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      #17
      Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
      From everything I have read, C,D, and E are the MOST necessary, though the gusseting around the headstock would be helpfull. However, and this is just my opinion so take it for what its worth, I push my GSs pretty dang hard, and yes, I've felt some wallowing here and there, but only at REDICULOUS for road travel speeds, out in the country where I was a danger to no one but myself. Something I do not, nor intend to, replicate very often. Unless the bike is a "track and street" duty machine, I simply dont see the need for any of the bracing. But again, thats just my opinion.
      Short answer. I agree.

      I had it down to the frame for fresh paint, I had a welder and free steel at my disposal, I kind of figured... eh... why not. If done right, it's not gonna hurt. I'm an acceleration guy. I'll ride the twisties, I ride in traffic, but I LOVE to find a nice long stretch of country road, and go from 30 to 130 as fast as I possibly can.

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        #18
        Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
        Short answer. I agree.

        I had it down to the frame for fresh paint, I had a welder and free steel at my disposal, I kind of figured... eh... why not. If done right, it's not gonna hurt. I'm an acceleration guy. I'll ride the twisties, I ride in traffic, but I LOVE to find a nice long stretch of country road, and go from 30 to 130 as fast as I possibly can.
        Oh given the circumstances, i would likely do the same, what the hell right? But Im not sure I would be quick to rush out and weld up every one of my GSs with the thought that its a necessary modification in order to make the bike handle more like a modern bike. Thats the only point I was trying to make, not trying to slight your efforts by any means. Its damn good work, and, like I said, if I were starting with a bike with ultimate performance in mind (which, knowing me, will probably be a project sooner or later..hehehe) I might do the same.

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          #19
          Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
          From everything I have read, C,D, and E are the MOST necessary, though the gusseting around the headstock would be helpfull. However, and this is just my opinion so take it for what its worth, I push my GSs pretty dang hard, and yes, I've felt some wallowing here and there, but only at REDICULOUS for road travel speeds, out in the country where I was a danger to no one but myself. Something I do not, nor intend to, replicate very often. Unless the bike is a "track and street" duty machine, I simply dont see the need for any of the bracing. But again, thats just my opinion.
          Yeah, I was kind of thinking on those same lines, it might make some sense if you are doing a frame off, but I think that rebuilding your front forks with better springs, new parts and a fresh set of rear shocks, along with a decent set of tires should make for a very stable ride. As far as the correlation to speed and the frame flexing I'm not sure I want to push my GS to that degree. If I want a to lean into a long sweeper at a buck 10, or rip a twisty it will be on me yamahopper(FZ1).
          Last edited by Guest; 11-03-2009, 10:11 PM.

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            #20
            I'm looking around for a "super deal" right now, I mean a non-cruiser (sorry L riders) running bike with a title for under $500 kind of deal. If it's less than a 1000 I'm going to cafe it to the max, if it's 1000 or greater gonna build a street legal drag bike. Kawasaki 750Ks are kind of tempting me. front end is all wrong (cruiser), but that big ole 2 cylinder intrigues me. Frame won't work as is though.

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