Old school project

[Kris V]

it does look like a $hitty weld i would grind and cover pass it atleast
it isnt hard, 7018 would flow nicely,and look good and is strong ,you can use stick or wire,i like stick, but i havent doen it in a few years

7018 are you crazy??? you would blow holes all through that frame...TIG weld with stainless besides, the stress point is against the weld not pulling away from it.

[Kris V]

Got the rear wheel done ie;polished,new bearings and new bolts...Before

After...

[Kris V]

Other side...

[Kris V]

Close up...

[Kris V]

Now I will have to let it sit for awhile so the silicone can cure before I install the tire,more pictures when do some more.

[cyclefvr2]

7018 are you crazy??? you would blow holes all through that frame...TIG weld with stainless besides, the stress point is against the weld not pulling away from it.

no not crazy i have used it a lot if you "blow holes through it you dont know how to weld"
sure tig would be great, not a lot of ppl can tig weld ,and tig's cost a fortune, and stick was around for how long? ,and wirehow long before tig?
lol
i have used it on frames it works well, was just a suggestion
it doesnt need to be under stress to have a crack spread from all the under cut on it, as for safety that is, and im assuming it will have high compression, and solid motor mounts ,thats if you want it to be better than when you got it

[Kris V]

Yes I know how to weld, I have a degree in metallurgy and welding and am a certified welder with Los Angeles county for high steel WITH 7018 and oh by the way here is the break down of "WHO CAME FIRST".


Tig was before Mig and stick was before Tig


This process was perfected in 1941, and became known as heliarc or tungsten inert gas welding, because it utilized a tungsten electrode and helium as a shielding gas. Initially, the electrode overheated quickly, and in spite of tungsten's high melting temperature, particles of tungsten were transferred to the weld. To address this problem, the polarity of the electrode was changed from positive to negative, but this made it unsuitable for welding many non-ferrous materials. Finally, the development of alternating current units made it possible to stabilize the arc and produce high quality aluminum and magnesium welds.[3]



It was not until 1948 that GMAW was finally developed by the Battelle Memorial Institute. It used a smaller diameter electrode and a constant voltage power source, which had been developed by H. E. Kennedy. It offered a high deposition rate, but the high cost of inert gases limited its use to non-ferrous materials and cost savings were not obtained. In 1953, the use of carbon dioxide as a welding atmosphere was developed, and it quickly gained popularity in GMAW, since it made welding steel more economical. In 1958 and 1959, the short-arc variation of GMAW was released, which increased welding versatility and made the welding of thin materials possible while relying on smaller electrode wires and more advanced power supplies. It quickly became the most popular GMAW variation. The spray-arc transfer variation was developed in the early 1960s, when experimenters added small amounts of oxygen to inert gases. More recently, pulsed current has been applied, giving rise to a new method called the pulsed spray-arc variation.[2]







During World War I welding started to be used in shipbuilding in Great Britain in place of riveted steel plates. The Americans also became more accepting of the new technology when the process allowed them to repair their ships quickly after a German attack in the New York Harbor at the beginning of the war.[5] Arc welding was first applied to aircraft during the war as well, and some German airplane fuselages were constructed using this process.[6] In 1919, the British shipbuilder Cammell Laird started construction of merchant ship, the Fullagar, with an entirely welded hull;[7] she was launched in 1921.[8]


Have a nice day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[cyclefvr2]

no not crazy i have used it a lot if you "blow holes through it you dont know how to weld"
sure tig would be great, not a lot of ppl can tig weld ,and tig's cost a fortune, and stick was around for how long? ,and wirehow long before tig?
lol
i have used it on frames it works well, was just a suggestion
it doesnt need to be under stress to have a crack spread from all the under cut on it, as for safety that is, and im assuming it will have high compression, and solid motor mounts ,thats if you want it to be better than when you got it

who came first in what ? mig stick ect... isnt a who, so if your refering to me trying to help ppl on responces then kiss my a$$,
like i said it was just a suggestion,
a degree wouldnt be hard to obtain- just apply your self, ppl that actually do in this world didnt start with degrees,
im happy for you and your piece of paper--

[sschering]

no not crazy i have used it a lot if you "blow holes through it you dont know how to weld"
sure tig would be great, not a lot of ppl can tig weld ,and tig's cost a fortune, and stick was around for how long? ,and wirehow long before tig?

?? I had a 1956 TIG welder I paid $400 for.. It's not like it's something new..
Tig was devolved in the 30's MIG in the 40's

I'm not going to argue filler rods.. I don't know them that well.. I've only done MIG and TIG as a hobby weldor. I'd be thinking 70S2 or S6 for tig or mig.

I don't have a rod oven to properly store 7018 anyway

Edit

Forgot to say the wheel looks great.. That sprocket is a monster..

[Kris V]

it was just a suggestion,

Did I ask for one???

who came first in what ? mig stick ect... isnt a who, so if your refering to me trying to help ppl on responces then kiss my a$$

Judas priest...I try to give you some back ground on welding so you can get educated and you jump my case How many bikes have you built or modified to do 8 or 7 seconds in the 1/4 mile? I put the pictures up for people to see and maybe get ideas thats all. What a mistake on my part by putting these pictures up.

[sschering]

Just want to say keep posting pics.. I love this build..
Everyone can't agree on everything.. not worth fighting over.

I have a question the the front end though..

Why do the Drag racers do the big cut and rake on the front end?

Is it just to increase trail for high speed stability or also to add to the wheelbase?

[Kris V]

Is it just to increase trail for high speed stability or also to add to the wheelbase?

Yes and lower the bike.

Just want to say keep posting pics.. I love this build..

Thank you! At least a few people like my stuff

[cyclefvr2]

?? I had a 1956 TIG welder I paid $400 for.. It's not like it's something new..
Tig was devolved in the 30's MIG in the 40's

I'm not going to argue filler rods.. I don't know them that well.. I've only done MIG and TIG as a hobby weldor. I'd be thinking 70S2 or S6 for tig or mig.

I don't have a rod oven to properly store 7018 anyway

Edit

Forgot to say the wheel looks great.. That sprocket is a monster..

a oven isnt needed,its a good purpose metal, on a frame like that theres no need for stainless either
there are a lot of ppl out there as hobbiest that havent gone to schools for it ,is all ,just helping how ever i could ,before i got the 3rd degree,and a lecture on how good someone was, dont care if it snaps off now
thats all im saying on this topic

[midnightcafe]

subscribed. I don't know anything about drag racing and this build shows some cool material. I'm surprised that rear rim is two pieces

[steve murdoch]

Also a subscriber, Kris.
I have this old brute out in the garage and 10? years from now when i get at it i will be using this thread.