Everybody says they are "BUTTER SOFT" for changing tires.
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Old school project
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Kris V
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tejasmud
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Originally posted by Kris V View Postthose are "MC" wheels
Everybody says they are "BUTTER SOFT" for changing tires.
they was designed to be used tubeless and shouldn't need screwed.
when ever you get the bike apart...let me know the diameter of the rotor in question and maybe post a picture so i can see if the bolt patterns the same as what i have.
*food for thought*
we always used to transfer the bolt pattern over to stock 80-83 front rotors...looked good/strong/and cheap.
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Kris V
I don`t know why this guy drilled for screws, on my dragbike I have now I don`t use screws and don`t plan to and I do 8.80`s. Thats cool, when I take it apart I will do some measuring to see what diameter is. I plan on running a tube on the front and be tubeless on the rear.
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tejasmud
Originally posted by Kris V View PostGot to have the halves together to seat the bead or your spinning your wheels I will use rtv in the centers to seal them.
Yea, that might be exciting unbolted.
Of course, similar to Cart wheels, break the beads, split the rims, RTV should work, tubes are cleaner, which may explain the screws if tubed, bolt them back together, then pop them on the bead. Piece of cake.
Cool project none the least.
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Kris, just out of curiosity, how do you know that your tire has never moved on the wheel? Have you ever put a piece of duct tape on the wheel & tire to see if the tire has moved on the rim? I would check that before you determine rim screws aren't required. On a LOT of those older rims like that bike has, we had to screw the tire to the rim to stop them from rotating. Ray.
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Kris V
tubes are cleaner,
Tubes have a tendency of moving even when the tire does not and they will pull the valve stem out. This happened to more times than I liked and cost me a couple of races so...tubeless is the way to go.
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Kris V
Ray, I have been running the same rims (Akront spokes) for 20+ years and never has it moved with either Mickey`s or Goodyear. I have marked my rim and not once has it moved from 5-8psi. I will not put screws in the rim until I see it move at that point I will make the decision. Don`t worry, these rims have a ton of corrosion where the bead is so I don`t think its going to move very much.Last edited by Guest; 11-05-2009, 10:47 PM.
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madjack57754
Looks to be a fun project. I had brake rotors like those back in the mid '80s. Got them from Storz Performance. Dirt track stuff if I remember correctly. They were a kit that used Airheart calipers
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Kris V
Originally posted by madjack57754 View PostLooks to be a fun project. I had brake rotors like those back in the mid '80s. Got them from Storz Performance. Dirt track stuff if I remember correctly. They were a kit that used Airheart calipers
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Kris V
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostOh man, can't wait.
I'll race the banana bike first with a 1260 (or so) and then pop on the big boy top end.
Putting together a 1230 for my street bike first. This thing is gonna fly!
I've blown my quota of two motors. Now I'm serious!
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Kris V
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Kris V
Well here we go...worked on the bars the other day and used a set of old pull backs to get this thing kinda comfy for the track. I have short stumpy arms and these old bar relocators are the heat The previous owner must have dumped the bike due to the damage on the old bars and bent them back to shape. Little did he know that they where cracked and ready to break. So I replaced them with a set of K&N bars. Remember those all of you old guys? Some of the best handle bars made! I wish they still made them.
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