starter clutch bolts and starter install

[rosco15]

What bolts should I use to replace the 3 bolts in the starter clutch assembly. I thought there was something stronger than stock that was suggested. Also are there any suggestions about seating the starter on the end of the crank. I'm thinking some red locktite and heat the starter clutch taper to about 200 deg. Then impact it on. I modified my current motor years ago, but don't recall exactly how I did it. I know for sure I replaced the 3 bolts, but don't recall with what.

Putting a starter clutch on a 1360 11.25-1 GS motor I'm building.

Did a search, but can't find it. Thanks for the input.

[Nessism]

Not really sure what to suggest other than maybe using some stud type loctite which I think is thicker.

[ArttuH]

Use 12.9 hardness bolts and hard thread lock (red Locktite or something similar). If the tapers on the crank and generator wheel looks pitted/worn you can seat them by using grinding paste. I think it's better to not use Locktite on the taper. It will get soft in engine heat and make contact worse.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Do a search or talk to rapid ray. Their is a method of starting big motors without the ign until the motor starts spinning. Making life easier on the starter clutch

[trippivot]

I have a 1428 14 - 1 mine are stock( and red loctite ) but you can always choose to go grade 8 or 9 or higher but it really will not be a problem if your advance unit is functioning like stock 16 ~ 33 adv. or what ever the exact numbers are. just so it is retarded when you start it.

[rosco15]

I use a Pro2 so I'm retarding to 0 when I start it. I think I'm going to go 24 volts. Are you doing that with your big motor? I see the stock bolts says 12.9 on the end. I thought that was the metric equivelent of a grade 8 or 9. I'm going to stop by the local machine shop supply place and see what bolts they suggest. Using the search I found someone suggested using sleeve retainer, but n o suggestions on the bolts.

Sleeve Retainer
OEM specified. High temperature (up to 400ºF / 204ºC) anaerobic adhesive that secures slip and press fit assemblies. Adds up to 3,000 PSI holding power. Restores fit to worn or out-of-tolerance assemblies. Prevents surface corrosion.

Suggested Applications: Cylinder sleeves, valve guides, valve seats, bearings and bushings, woodruff keys, liner assemblies

[rosco15]

Permatex® High Strength Threadlocker RED

OEM specified. High strength threadlocker for heavy-duty applications 3/8 inch to 1 inch (10mm to 25mm). Especially well-suited for permanently locking studs and press fits. Adds 3,000 PSI holding power on slip and press fit assemblies. Replaces set screws and snap rings. Locks against vibration loosening. May require heat or special tools for removal.

[Tailgunner]

starter clutch

ryan
Never put anything on the taper itself . Make sure that it is super clean and dry before assembly. You should use red loctite on all the bolts and touque to factory specs. If you over tighten the center bolt it can push it to far on the taper and not give a tight fit.
You are using a Pro Series II box so I would set my start retart so that you have about 7 degrees BTC . You should have a range of 0-30 degrees start retard. with that box. A factory igniter is around 8 to 11 degrees start retart.
If you are going dual batteries let me know . I have a good wiring diagram of the best setup.

[rosco15]

Thanks for the replies.

Tailgunner just sent you a pm

[NoBars]

I tig weld it around the perimeter to the female taper piece. red locktite on the bolts.

Lap the taper male and female to each other with valve seating compound, clean well, heat female taper with propane (not crazy hot), wail down quick with an air impact.

be prepared, you may never get it off again.

I have the coils on a seperate switch, spin the motor, turn the coils on.

I tried 24 volts, not needed for me, just adds weight and complexity, 14/1 1500.

[katman]

I remember a discussion like this a few years back. Someone mentioned not to use 12-9 bolts. something about better to sheer bolts than bend a rod.

I believe that was in regard to a hydro lock situation. It was a rather lively discussion.

[curt101]

I am about to dive into this on my 79 GS1000S as it clanks pretty good when you try to turn it over and now I am a bit worried. I thought I would be going into this tightening or possibly replacing some bolts, but now you guys are talking about timing, and 24 volt systems, loctite this loctite that, tig welding, switches for coils etc, etc. Wow!!!!!

[trippivot]

Curt don't sweat it.

just pop open the left side and get a look at what is your specific problem.
take pictures and start another thread if you need further guidance.

[rapidray]

Yeah Curt, us drag racers are always finding, & trying to eliminate!, all the weak links. It is very EASY to make a big cc, high compression GS motor self starting. I even do several of these things on street motors that are only 1166. Ray.

[curt101]

Hopefully I will have it up on the lift tonight or tomorrow and will let you know.
Thanks