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    #91
    If your using rear sets with integrated master cylinder like the ZX12R units on mine then forget my concern.

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      #92
      Oh, love THAT bike!
      Do you have close ups of the rear-sets; as in where and how you mounted them?

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        #93
        Yes sir, that is the plan.

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          #94
          Originally posted by Bad Kaw View Post
          Oh, love THAT bike!
          Do you have close ups of the rear-sets; as in where and how you mounted them?
          Hate to step on the Doctor's thread, please step into my Office, I've been working on a tutorial.

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            #95
            Originally posted by isleoman View Post
            Hate to step on the Doctor's thread, please step into my Office, I've been working on a tutorial.

            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=152341
            Bookmarked.
            My thread is so rambling anyway. It may need to be stepped on. Mainly me working out the plans in my head. Money tapped for a month or two after sinking $600 into the motor (1230 kit). So using the time I can't spend any money to cement a lot of the long range plans for frame and suspension. I need to get that nailed down before I start bracing the frame and otherwise hacking on it.

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              #96
              Please ramble on, brother! This is my kind o' thread!
              -KR

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                #97
                Good tip on the sprocket carrier guys. The 1100 on is 6 mm narrower than the one from the RF900 wheel, but the same diameter and cush configuration. I needed to find about 5mm on the left side to center the wheel without scrapoing the sprocket against the swing arm. That should do it.

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                  #98
                  Found a local machine shop finally to get my spacers sorted out. Using the gs1100 sprocket carrier on the RF900 5.5 wheel gave me the space I needed to center the wheel without scraping the sprocket bolts on the frame. As soon as I have spacers in hand going to fit it all up, and then I should be able to see where I need to weld the mount for moving the torque arm to the bottom, and a good stable, centered platform to confirm my front sprocket offset (I imagine 5/8). Going to use rear sets with an integrated master cylinder, so no issue with relocating the master.

                  Back to the motor, paying off my 1230 block and pistons on Friday. Already found 750 oil pump gears, ordered an 1150 filter cover to use with stock 1150 oil cooler I already have and a top end oiler. Ordered my flywheel puller also. I have it down to the cases almost ready to start splitting them.

                  Now to the big money or "How I spent my 2009 bonus"

                  Sending the head to Ray for:
                  New valves all around, 1mm over 28mm valves on the intake side, radius cut and porting. HD springs, and replace anything else that needs it (guides, etc...)

                  This will be mated with Cam Motion G4 cams .355 lift with adjustable sprockets and an HD chain.

                  When the crank is out going to have it checked for true, balanced and welded.

                  Still looking for an HD clutch plate (at less than new APE prices), and potentially a basket as well. I already have some HD springs in hand.

                  36mm Slingshots already in hand (thanks Kochic). I have ss bolt set for them and new o-rings. I have to get the stage 3 dynojet kit then I can go ahead and tear them down for clean and rebuild.

                  Got to evaluate if I need to do any of the racer mods on the starter clutch.

                  Estimate 140 to 150 HP at the wheel.

                  Comment


                    #99
                    Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
                    Found a local machine shop finally to get my spacers sorted out. Using the gs1100 sprocket carrier on the RF900 5.5 wheel gave me the space I needed to center the wheel without scraping the sprocket bolts on the frame. As soon as I have spacers in hand going to fit it all up, and then I should be able to see where I need to weld the mount for moving the torque arm to the bottom, and a good stable, centered platform to confirm my front sprocket offset (I imagine 5/8). Going to use rear sets with an integrated master cylinder, so no issue with relocating the master.

                    Back to the motor, paying off my 1230 block and pistons on Friday. Already found 750 oil pump gears, ordered an 1150 filter cover to use with stock 1150 oil cooler I already have and a top end oiler. Ordered my flywheel puller also. I have it down to the cases almost ready to start splitting them.

                    Now to the big money or "How I spent my 2009 bonus"

                    Sending the head to Ray for:
                    New valves all around, 1mm over 28mm valves on the intake side, radius cut and porting. HD springs, and replace anything else that needs it (guides, etc...)

                    This will be mated with Cam Motion G4 cams .355 lift with adjustable sprockets and an HD chain.

                    When the crank is out going to have it checked for true, balanced and welded.

                    Still looking for an HD clutch plate (at less than new APE prices), and potentially a basket as well. I already have some HD springs in hand.

                    36mm Slingshots already in hand (thanks Kochic). I have ss bolt set for them and new o-rings. I have to get the stage 3 dynojet kit then I can go ahead and tear them down for clean and rebuild.

                    Got to evaluate if I need to do any of the racer mods on the starter clutch.

                    Estimate 140 to 150 HP at the wheel.
                    aint it fun sorting out these wheel issues.you should Look at the rearsets off a new zx-10 easy to mount and look great. just dont find them before me .I bought some crappy ones on E-bay from china that looked great till they showed up oh well 150$ down the tubes.Sounds like your motor is gonna be a handfull.

                    Comment


                      Be glad when the wheel/suspension stuff is behind me not as interesting (to me) as the engine. Has to be done, and hopefully will look good. Not extending the springarm (yet), so gonna be a wheelie machine. If it's too bad, have to go back and extend the arm. I am gonna brace the frame, install a fork brace, and go for mid grade (Ikon probably) shocks. I'm considering blacking the engine ala the 1150, but not sure.

                      Comment


                        The BLACK engines are FASTER!!! Ray.

                        Comment


                          I knew it !


                          Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                          The BLACK engines are FASTER!!! Ray.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                            The BLACK engines are FASTER!!! Ray.
                            specially if you "breath" on them

                            Comment


                              But not as fast as a the rare red engine!
                              Last edited by Guest; 01-07-2010, 01:42 AM.

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                                Better bring a change of underwear for the first time you grab throttle.
                                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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