GS1100E Money Pit Thread

[posplayr]

Good input. Stuff to think about.

Frank doesn't make 43mm tubes. I already emailed and asked. This would have been my preference, but no go.
With an 18" wheel I'll open a can of fitment issues with the brakes and front fender. One of the advantages of the RF900 forks with the 17" wheel, is they go togther, so the 900 twin pots bolt right on making front brake conversion cake.
Option 3 sounds the the best, get a cheap top triple and hack off the clamps then weld underneath the clamps on the 900 triple. I'll have to see what the clearance is as it sits. I don't want to scrape my pipe every time I turn in my drive, but as you guys know I am a straight line speed guy, no plans to be footpeg scraping in the twisties.

My measurements for triple offset

Distance from the top of the fork to the top of the frame head set tube; compensates for drop triples

So normally the top of the stanchion is above the top of the frame as in the following measurements:

GS1100E -1 inch
GSXR 1100/750 1st Gen -1.0 inch
GSXR 1100/750 2nd Gen -1.5 inch
DropTriple 0.0 inch (no loss)

The numbers are negative because they subtract from the available stanchion length. A drop triple would at least buy back 1 inch and so the top of the stanchion would be level with the top of the steering tube (approx)

I pulled these numbers from my ride height spreadsheet. With a few numbers I can set it up for you and then send a copy. I have used it for GS1100EZ/ED ride height calculations.

[doctorgonzo]

I'll bust out the good camera and take better photos with measurements tonight Pos.

Probably be this weekend before I can mock up the rear end. See if that big 5.5 really will fit in the stock swingarm, or if it's time to think about a swingarm swap (still have the RF900 swinger as well)

On the engine front, got an email in to Ray about a 1230 big block kit he may still have. Going to sit down and start specing out the top end soon. Plan is to get the rear end mocked up, make sure there are no major unknowns there, then get the engine off the frame. Can't make major decisions until I pull the head, see if anything non-stock in there, and check the overall condition. Then I can get on the APE site, and get an estimate on all the work I'd have done in my dream world (new guides, oversized valves, etc...), and see how it fits the budget.

Budget... oh geez.. thinking about it this morning, my freaking powder coat bill will be $300 to $400 dollars

[doctorgonzo]

Struck a deal with Ray, not a big block, an 1150 block bored 3mm over with wiseco 10.25 to 1 flat top pistons, fresh hone and rings, so the middle 1/3 of the engine done. Probably be 3 or 4 months on the top 1/3. Gonna get the rear end mocked up tomorrow, then start tearing the engine apart. Manufacture date on the bike is 12/31/81, so almost certainly not the welded crank. Still haven't drained the oil to pull the cover and check the end.

[isleoman]

My 1100's build date was 02/82 and the crank wasn't welded.

[doctorgonzo]

My 1100's build date was 02/82 and the crank wasn't welded.

Yeah, have't confirmed, but almost no chance mine is. I got the rear wheel mocked up today, and the 180 does indeed fit in the stock swinger (pics later). I also got the valve cover off, confirmed it has stock cams, nothing wrong with the top end from a quick inspection under the cover. Next on the agenda is check for the crank being twisted.

[rapidray]

With that build date you have one of the first 82s built. Ray.

[doctorgonzo]

With that build date you have one of the first 82s built. Ray.

If my Haynes manual is right about the frame numbers it was number 1200 of the 82s.

[doctorgonzo]

180 in the standard swingarm. While I have it on there need to mock up the torque arm/brake on the bottom to find the right spot to weld on the mount.










This was just to make sure it fit. Gotta get it centered, and figure out the spacer situation.

[doctorgonzo]

Latest edition to the parts stash for this bike. I ordered them for the 1000G, but going to save them for the E instead. One sync post gone from the tops, gotta figure out how I'm going to fix that. BST36SS Slingshots, $100 shipped from Canada. I'll need to tear them apart before use.

[posplayr]

Latest edition to the parts stash for this bike. I ordered them for the 1000G, but going to save them for the E instead. One sync post gone from the tops, gotta figure out how I'm going to fix that. BST36SS Slingshots, $100 shipped from Canada. I'll need to tear them apart before use.

Nice price; but you wanna look out for wear in the jet nozzles. The needle wobble in the nozzle and can wear both causing rough idle. Dyno jet makes kits kits with the nozzle for about $175, the Factory pro kits are reputed to be much better. FP kits require you but the OEM nozzles which adds about $80. I have the DJ kits but have not tried the carbs yet.

[rapidray]

"Emulsion Tube" is the name of the part Jim is referring to when he says "jet Nozzle" . Ray.

[posplayr]

"Emulsion Tube" is the name of the part Jim is referring to when he says "jet Nozzle" . Ray.

Yea I'm confused as the what I seem to be remembersing is the old SU CV's used to call emulsion tubes jets.

[jwhelan65]

emulsion tubes..jet nozzles...lil metal thingys...its all the same...

[doctorgonzo]

In the lateset "sweet saved a few bucks", I discovered last night that that the BDST36 carbs I had planned to clean up and sell from the RF900 seem to share virtually all parts with the BST36SS Slingshots. I had a cover with a broken off sync port, and the cover from the BDST is identical. Needles, choke mechanism, and other parts look very similar as well. The only real difference I have found is the float bowls (since the BDST are made to sit at that downward angle). So looks like I have a "free" set of parts carbs. The slides are even that same "semi flat", haven't really checked the bottom to see if the slide has the "slingshot" profile.

[Bad Kaw]

emulsion tubes..jet nozzles...lil metal thingys...its all the same...

-KR