82 Kat resto-mod aka Project Bucket Case

[ukilme]

Well, I joined this site about a month ago and have read a ton of info here. I also got a warm hello from everyone and posted some pictures of the Kat.

I decided to start a build thread for two reasons: provide info and encourage others and to learn from others.

I bought this bike back in July of this past year for 500 bucks and made back 370. I just wanted the frame and body. Not bad for 130 bucks with papers.

That is a GM a/c cooling rad.

I decided to get into this project because I enjoyed building my zx7r track bike as much as I rode it. I got out of track days (hard core) because of a scary highside at a high rate of speed.

I did some research about starting a resto project and found the most common suggestion was start with something that you liked when you were young and that is still fairly easy to get parts.

My parts for this build is slowly growing: CBR954 triple with 93 GSXR front end, B12 swing arm with the bushings from Rob, a ton of parts from Bike Bandit, 93 GSXR rims, 94 GSXR front rotors, rear brake setup from a 93 GSXR, new bearing for everything etc.

I also pickup a GS1100E motor. I replied to an add for a 91 GSXR 750 motor and the guy three motors for sale. The 750, a GSXR 1100 w/o second gear and the GS1100.


He told me it was running three weeks before I bought it. So, I got it home fogged it and shrink wrapped it. I will do a compression or leak down test, later when I start working on the motor part of the project.

This is what the frame now looks like as of yesterday. I picked it up from my welder. I found through a drag racer that I knew.


I cut the round tube using the tubemiter program. It was my first time cutting tube and my welder was impressed. However, he admitted to me that he does not do it. He just machines the cuts. The plates he did in his shop.

The tank was test fitted when I got home and it fits w/o any issues.

Now, I know the plates where the pegs go are big. But I am thinking of going with just pegs and levers and use the plates as my 'rear sets'. If I do not go that way, I can always cut them down

[ukilme]

We decided to do something a little different then usual 'x' or 'v' bracing. Tell me what you think? I think it looks cleaner and should brace well.


The front cross member was removed by the previous owner for a 89 GSXR motor exhaust. I replaced it with a 1' tube which is a little larger.

Now, that the frame is ready. I can start to mock up the front and rear to get the right height for the B12 swing arm and figure out where the shocks mounts will be going.

Aside from the frame, I have done other things like rebuilding thte brake calipers, replacing bearings, etc.

I tried my hand at polishing and I have to say it is a pain. Here is a picture. The center will be painted satin black as this is the look I like.


I also tried my hand at plastic welding. Now I just have to get the body work done on it which is the plan for the winter months. I do not have to be in the garage for that.


Anyways, I hope this thread will encourage some people to just go for it. As this is my first real rebuild and almost every part of this bike will be touched. And I am learning a lot of new things.

As Jesse James say, "All I have left to do is everything'

[NoBars]

I believe you can still buy those sidecovers new for not much $$ (like $50.00 3 years ago)

[midnightcafe]

subscribed. those shear plates definitely look the part.

[posplayr]

We decided to do something a little different then usual 'x' or 'v' bracing. Tell me what you think? I think it looks cleaner and should brace well.


The front cross member was removed by the previous owner for a 89 GSXR motor exhaust. I replaced it with a 1' tube which is a little larger.

Now, that the frame is ready. I can start to mock up the front and rear to get the right height for the B12 swing arm and figure out where the shocks mounts will be going.

Aside from the frame, I have done other things like rebuilding thte brake calipers, replacing bearings, etc.

I tried my hand at polishing and I have to say it is a pain. Here is a picture. The center will be painted satin black as this is the look I like.


I also tried my hand at plastic welding. Now I just have to get the body work done on it which is the plan for the winter months. I do not have to be in the garage for that.


Anyways, I hope this thread will encourage some people to just go for it. As this is my first real rebuild and almost every part of this bike will be touched. And I am learning a lot of new things.

As Jesse James say, "All I have left to do is everything'

Frame bracing looks well thought out. Good job keeping from having tank interferences issues. Did you pre fab so cardboard patterns or how did you get the proper fit?

Having talked to Katman about what he does for bracing, and read the other threads the "C" bracing below the tank is the most important and probably what would be most noticeable. The typical X that you replaced with the gussets adds extra rigidity and is probably sufficient. However just visualizing the load path in my head (between steering step and pivot bolts), it looks like the weakest point is now just below the cross brace and maybe some small gussets below might be in order.

See attached pic. This just adds balance to your load path. The issue is not to make it stiffer so much but to relieve the stress concentrations that will occur where that gusset would be placed. The weakest link gets the most stress, so you want to keep it balanced.

[Smokinapankake]

Shame you cut off the rear passenger pegs, that is one of the nicest looking aspects of the Kat frame, and what sets them apart (in my mind, anyway) from their GS1100E brothers.

Looks like nice work you're doing, I've subscribed as I'm in the middle of a resto on my 82 Kat as well...

[spyug]

What I'm wondering about is the need for frame bracing. What are your thoughts on that? Why exactly? I think I could see the need if you were dropping in a drag mill or something over 150 horse but you're not doing that are you?

Is there something not right or some inherent problem with these frames?

I'd be interested in knowing.

cheers,
spyug

[ukilme]

Frame bracing looks well thought out. Good job keeping from having tank interferences issues. Did you pre fab so cardboard patterns or how did you get the proper fit?

Having talked to Katman about what he does for bracing, and read the other threads the "C" bracing below the tank is the most important and probably what would be most noticeable. The typical X that you replaced with the gussets adds extra rigidity and is probably sufficient. However just visualizing the load path in my head (between steering step and pivot bolts), it looks like the weakest point is now just below the cross brace and maybe some small gussets below might be in order.

See attached pic. This just adds balance to your load path. The issue is not to make it stiffer so much but to relieve the stress concentrations that will occur where that gusset would be placed. The weakest link gets the most stress, so you want to keep it balanced.

Ya, my welder said the same thing when I picked up the frame. He stated it would not be a big deal but it would help. The frame may go back when time comes time to bring in the B12 swing arm for brake caliper holder brace for the 93 GSXR caliper holder-this means no brake torque arm- and the shock mounts.

Smokin- I cut it off because I was having clearance issues with the swing arm. I know the B12 swing arm can fit but stock pegs setup was welded a little off and while I got the brake side to clear the other did not. But you are right, the pegs are unique and my plans were to keep them.

spyug- the frame bracing I got from reading up on this board and Old Skool. That is the weakest part of the frame and I am use to a stiff frame of the newer sport bikes. Also, the orginial plans was for a GSXR1100 or GSX1100f motor. I ended up with the GS1100 which is a great base for modifing.

[Nessism]

I'm no expert about frame bracing but I think your choices are good ones - particularly bracing the area above the carbs and near the swingarm pivot.

Bracing will help avoid high speed tank slappers, the type that can pitch you off the bike. Not necessary unless riding at "near" insane speeds, but won't hurt either. With more modern suspension and rubber there are more loads fed into the chassis so the bracing is a good idea.

[salty_monk]

Only if the rider can ride it to the level of the new components I guess.... (So shouldn't be any issues on my 750! ) Sounds like this guy prob can!

80GS1000 doesn't have bracing on his GS1000 monoshock. He says that the only time he notices the frame flexing is if he happens to get a sideways input from his slider touching tarmac on the corner.

Dan

[Bad Kaw]

Cool project! You're clearly "in" the money, eh?!!!
Well done. Keep pics comin'!
-KR

[Kris V]

Might be a little interesting getting the carbs in and out with that gusset in the way unless you are going to use K&N individual filters. Looks good and strong though.

[ukilme]

Na, I am not in the money. Just an understanding wife and a two year plan.

I did not think about the carbs but others have done this so it should work. I used card board cutouts for the welder to follow and I followed other pictures using that bracing from the web.

I do plan on using the pods and I am thinking GSXR 36mm carbs.

[posplayr]

The front cross member was removed by the previous owner for a 89 GSXR motor exhaust. I replaced it with a 1' tube which is a little larger.

I'm wonder if you have a specific exhaust in mind all ready or you might want to rethink this cross brace. If this cross brace could be stepped down and back about 1/4" you could probably fit any number of GSXR,Bandit exhausts including a GSXR 1000.

I'm assuming the Kat bracing is the same as the (83) 1100 ED and you can see in the picture how close the pipe is to the cross brace. This is an Yoshi 4:2:1 from a 2nd generation 89-92 GSXR 1100. I got the required clerance by using spigots to space out the pipe by about 3/4". This reduced my wheel to header clearance by about 1/2" and also decreased my ground clearance by about the same. Without the spigots it would be a tighter fit.

[posplayr]

This pic is from the side so you can see there is nothing in the way if the brace can be relocated back and down about 1/4-1/2". The stock cross brace is 3/4" OD centered on the frame. The distance from the top of the tube to the CL of the upper mounting bolt if about 1.5"