I can pray it works out or move it since like you said and go back to 3/4 inches tube.
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82 Kat resto-mod aka Project Bucket Case
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ukilme
posplayr, thanks for that catch and pictures. I have not even thought of an exhaust as of yet. I may have to rethink that cross member. You exhaust is a tight fit even with sigots.
I can pray it works out or move it since like you said and go back to 3/4 inches tube.
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Originally posted by ukilme View Postposplayr, thanks for that catch and pictures. I have not even thought of an exhaust as of yet. I may have to rethink that cross member. You exhaust is a tight fit even with sigots.
I can pray it works out or move it since like you said and go back to 3/4 inches tube.
I have a GSXR 1100 1st Gen Mussy 4:1 that is symerical and has no clerance issues (on my GSXR; trial fit only). They seem to far and few between.
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Bad Kaw
Originally posted by ukilme View PostNa, I am not in the money. Just an understanding wife and a two year plan...
Great bike...looooooove the Kats! Please keep posting pics! ...keeps me motivated during the snow months!
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ukilme
Originally posted by Bad Kaw View PostSorry...didn't mean that you were loaded with cash...I meant that you got a very good deal on the motorcycle, that it is worth much more than you gave for it. A complement on your purchasing savvy!
Great bike...looooooove the Kats! Please keep posting pics! ...keeps me motivated during the snow months!
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Originally posted by ukilme View PostYa I saw that on line. Not bad. It is bad timing to sell it after Christmas. He got no bids.
posplayr- I just realized I have a subscription to you build thread. I guess I subscribe when I first joined GS.
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ukilme
Originally posted by posplayr View Post
I just picked up a Kerker. Hopefully, it works out. Now just to finish off the chassis then work on the other stuff.
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ukilme
Well, I finally got around to finishing painting my rims and clearing it. I tried to cut and polish the clear but the look would got funky.
I used Dupli-color High performance satin black and clear.
Next time I will just get a strong automotive clear from PPG, Nason or such.
Now, it is a little warmer. Time to clean up the garage and work on the frame again.
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Originally posted by ukilme View PostWell, I finally got around to finishing painting my rims and clearing it. I tried to cut and polish the clear but the look would got funky.
I used Dupli-color High performance satin black and clear.
Next time I will just get a strong automotive clear from PPG, Nason or such.
Now, it is a little warmer. Time to clean up the garage and work on the frame again.
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ukilme
Originally posted by posplayr View PostThat is a nice classic look; I cleared (Por-15 Glisten PC) my 18" 3 spokes after stripping. The cast part offered a contast to the polished rim which I like.
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Ogri
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ukilme
Well, I had two issues this week both that are easily fixed.
First one was caused when removing the wheel bearings. No I did not damaged the rim.
First, I'll explain how they were removed.
These tools was all that I needed.
I used the heat gun to heat up the outer part of the hub for a few minutes. I then used the sprocket and tapped the center race of the bearing to free up the spacer between the bearings. Next I took the 1/2 inch tub by the hammer and carefully placed through the hub and on to the other bearing's inner race. Then I 'tapped' it 2-3 times and then would my way around the bearing using the bolts holes for the rotors au a guide. Eventually, it will come out. The reason for working your way around is not to let the bearing get 'cock eyed'. Once it was out, I flipped the wheel and use the sprocket to knock out the other bearing.
And this is what you get:
It was so easy. That I went ahead with the rear and removed the bearings from the wheel. It all went smooth.
The next day I figured I would get some bearing from the local bearing house. I called them up and they wanted 18 bucks for one. Now, I laughed because All Balls sell them cheaper then that in a set at least for the front.
And this was my little screw up. I was planning on placing them back in and mocking up the suspension to figure out the shock mounts this week. Oh well, I should have checked first.
Anyways, I got home checked Ebay for some 6204 sr c3 bearings and found some for 20 or best offer for ten. I got them for 15 plus shipping. So for ten automotive 6204 bearings, I payed a little roughly 2.40 each but I have to wait. Now, I hope they are what the sellers said they were.
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ukilme
Now my second mistake. Well, not really my mistake but....
I got the frame braced as seen in previous post. I tested fitted the tank w/o an issue. So yesterday, I decide to trail fit the CBR triple trees to figure out steering stops (frame or tree).
So, I had the triple on with one fork leg and decided to try the tank again but it hit the tree. Strange I thought...I looked into some more as this should not happen. I looked under the tank and realized that I have been 'mounting' the tank like a modern perimeter frame as most of my recent bikes have been 'newer' sport bikes. Basically, I have been dropping the tank on top on everything and not sliding it on the tank mounts on the upper tube.
So, I fitted the tank as it should and out came the issue. The tank hit the gussets for the frame. Now the welder did not follow my instructions to a "T" and I had cut out card board taped along the center of the tubing. When I picked up the frame, I did point this out but did not think it was a big issue.
I had two choices. Bring it back to get him to fix it or shape the tank.
Anyways, out came the heat gun out and some tool.
I did this for both sides.
And the results were positive. It now fits with minimal modification to the tank. There is roughly 3-5 mm space on both sides just enough room to place some sort of foam padding to prevent the metal from rubbing.
Right side:
Left side
So, the moral of this is, be there when the welder welds them in place. I was not there for the frame gussets.
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ukilme
Originally posted by spyug View PostWhat I'm wondering about is the need for frame bracing. What are your thoughts on that? Why exactly? I think I could see the need if you were dropping in a drag mill or something over 150 horse but you're not doing that are you?
Is there something not right or some inherent problem with these frames?
I'd be interested in knowing.
cheers,
spyug
I wanted the frame bracing because the plan was to drop it a gsxr1100 or gsx1100f motor but I got the gs1100 motor instead. I am also upgrading the front and rear suspension.
This bike will also see the track from time to time.
I do not think there is anything inherently wrong with the frame. It was just a choice.
This is a good read on frame bracing:
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