oil pressure drop @ hard throttle

[paco13]

OK,
I have the braided stainless line kit in my shopping cart, Now 0-15psi is enough range, correct?

[posplayr]

OK,
I have the braided stainless line kit in my shopping cart, Now 0-15psi is enough range, correct?

I would not order the stainless steel line from Jegs or Summit. They are not plastic coated and when you run that under your tank the SS will eat up your wires, paint and anything else it rubs against.

I just ordered a custom line from Paragon Performance. About the same price but it has a clear coating. Call them and tell them what you want ; use the parts in the JEGS/Summit kit and he wil lgive about the same price. The port on the side of the engine is a 10mm

0-15 is the lowest pressure range i have found and is the same as Bruce's 1.5" guage. It would be hard to peg it, unless reved to redline with cold 20-50W oil

P.S. Crap I forgot you were in NY and Paragon is in LA..... he is very helpful anyway.

http://www.paragonperformance.com/

[madjack57754]

Bob Bertaut website photo

[paco13]

Thanks for the pic.
Looks like he cut the tubes off front and brazed on the rear.
What do you think of omitting the tubes all together and having pick up centrally?

[posplayr]

Thanks for the pic.
Looks like he cut the tubes off front and brazed on the rear.
What do you think of omitting the tubes all together and having pick up centrally?

If I was going to do anything I would try to figure out how to always keep the entire tube opening wet.

Since worst case is acceleration (when the motor is being taxed), you want to get as close to the bottom of the pan (without restricting flow), assuming the oil is at about a 45 degree angle to the vertical. (1 G down and 1 G acceleration) Add additional angle if you don't have a wheelie bar. .

That would tend to suggest that rear ward tubes with 45 degree bends down would be best.

At a 45 degree OIL angle the vertical tubes would not be as deep at the rearward facing down curved. At level oil they are the same.


But make sure you are really starving for oil first

[Mysuzyq]

If I was going to do anything I would try to figure out how to always keep the entire tube opening wet.

At a 45 degree OIL angle the vertical tubes would not be as deep at the rearward facing down curved. At level oil they are the same.

But make sure you are really starving for oil first

This oil light flicker sound familiar. It happened also for me when I installed the 750 pump gears along the turbo. The light started to flicker at top end rpm after hard acceleration. Especially if the oil wasn't completely warm. I think it's combination of two things: 1) increased oil flow keeps more oil in the top end so the oil level in the sump gets lower 2) under acceleration oil goes to rear of the sump and the pick-up is in the front. Together these two mean that there is very little oil in front side of the sump at high rpm and under hard acceleration. So the pick-up can easily suck air.

I solved this by making a deepened oil pan and moving the oil pick-up to the deepest part of the pan.

I t would be interesting to see a pic/drawing of Artuu's fix too.

[ArttuH]

I t would be interesting to see a pic/drawing of Artuu's fix too.

All right, here are few pictures:

http://www.iki.fi/arttuh/mopo/project/pohja1.jpg

http://www.iki.fi/arttuh/mopo/project/pohja2.jpg

http://www.iki.fi/arttuh/mopo/project/pickup.jpg

And yes, I know, that square pick-up pipe doesn't look very professional But it works and I hadn't suitable round tube available when I did that.

Oil return from the turbo is connected to front side of the deepened part so that additional wall is there to prevent returning oil getting sucked in the pump right away.

This pick-up works perfectly under acceleration but apparently sometimes sucks air after hard braking. So probably I will add some baffling on the pan.

[Mysuzyq]

Cool, thanks! Turbo exhaust routing would allow that solution I guess.....with our conventional bikes, the header & collector run pretty close to the pan.You have easy access to that lowered drain bolt too!

[paco13]

Nice! Now we're getting somewhere.

Absolutely posplayr, I will verify starvation as soon as Parts,Time, and Weather align. Don't fix what ain't broke, right?

As mentioned, with a street pipe the deep pan isn't an option really, but relocating p/u is. I was asking about centering p/u figuring maybe it might avoid the problem of starvation on braking/decel, but still be rear and low enough to be submerged on accel. If you look at posplayr's drawing the bottem center is always submerged. Any Thoughts?

[posplayr]

Nice! Now we're getting somewhere.

Absolutely posplayr, I will verify starvation as soon as Parts,Time, and Weather align. Don't fix what ain't broke, right?

As mentioned, with a street pipe the deep pan isn't an option really, but relocating p/u is. I was asking about centering p/u figuring maybe it might avoid the problem of starvation on braking/decel, but still be rear and low enough to be submerged on accel. If you look at posplayr's drawing the bottem center is always submerged. Any Thoughts?

Reread my post again. You do just what aurthur did just not with a sump extension. Running dry under acceleration is much worse than running dry under braking or normal aspiration at least.
Make an angled sump pickup as close to the bottom rear of the pan as you can without restricting flow. A nice clean slash cut of round tubing at 45 degree down would be about as good as you can get.

See the depth measurement for 45 degree oil level under 1 g acceleration.

When oil level is flat, then there is no difference in being fore v.s. aft(i.e. the center is just as good). However, when under acceelration the rear is deeper as shown in the drawing.

[paco13]

OK,
I see what your sayin'. It's settled then. Thats the way i'll go if I indeed have a problem.
I still wonder why Suzuki had it p/u from the front.
As you stated, oil pressure should be of higher priorty under load.
Thanks again.

[posplayr]

OK,
I see what your sayin'. It's settled then. Thats the way i'll go if I indeed have a problem.
I still wonder why Suzuki had it p/u from the front.
As you stated, oil pressure should be of higher priorty under load.
Thanks again.

The only question in my mind now is depending upon the way you ride, the GS oiling system (with 750 gears, top end oiler, 1150 cover, and 550 lines/cooler for me) can push the bulk of the oil into the top end and run dry. Is that normal "fun" ridding or is that high RPM track riding? Unless you somehow instrument the oil level, accuracte oil pressue is the only way to tell.

[saffa]

interesting thread .

i fitted a gauge ages ago after putting in a top end oiler . the oiler took out the sensor which kind of left me no choice. i was gonna stick it on the motor originally but thought that was pointless as you want it visible at a glance. so using a kit that i got from a online company which is no longer i managed to put it up on the bars.

by drilling the top nut out and using a rubber grommet i was able to route the line from the gallery behind number 4 barrel up through the steering stem.once you screw the nut down you attah the gauge and push it down to sit in the grommet ...nice and clean .

works well too ...but as you say when cold it goes up and pins its self until warm. once warm it sits at about 6 or 7 under normal running about 1 or so at idle ...0.2 at idle in traffic....and 10 or so when doing illegal stuff

well chuffed with it

[posplayr]

interesting thread .

i fitted a guage ages ago after putting in a top end oiler . the oiler took out the sensor which kind of left me no choice. i was gonna stick it on the motor originally but thought that was pointless as you want it visible at a glance. so using a kit that i got from a online company which is no longer i managed to put it up on the bars.

by drilling the top nut out and using a rubber grommet i was able to route the line from the gallery behind number 4 barrel up through the steering stem.once you screw the nut down you attah the gauge and push it down to sit in the grommet ...nice and clean .

works well too ...but as you say when cold it goes up and pins its self until warm. once warm it sits at about 6 or 7 under normal running about 1 or so at idle ...0.2 at idle in traffic....and 10 or so when doing illegal stuff

well chuffed with it

Funny, I came up with the same idea for the 1 1/2" guage. Doesn't work well for the larger 2 1/8" lighted guage.

For everybody Else the GSXR top nut is almost hollow so it is easy to drill and stick the guage fitting through it. The GS top nuts are solid but might be able to make it work.

[rapidray]

Paco, after reading through all 5 pages of this, I HIGHLY recommend you drop the oil pan & make SURE your o ring in there isn't crushed beyond holding pressure. That's where I would start. Ray.