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    #16
    That's cool. Mike bike is a tad boggy when letting go of the clutch. But after that no problem at all. I haven't taken a look at the needles if they need shimming or not, but will do pretty soon.

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      #17
      yeah i set everything up the way the kit said i should have modified my needle position for better low end maybe i will when i replace the intake boots on the heads for a little more bottom end fuel then get it to a shop to tune or buy the tool and learn myself probly cheaper to DIY

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        #18
        I bought a carb synch last year. Really frustrating and kind of confusing. If you wanted them to get all synch say at 1500rpm and then idle it around 3000rpm, then they will be off. And vice versa as well. Some people say to synch at idle and some people say synch at riding around town range. But did the best I could and def made a difference.

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          #19
          thats good to know its difficult lol, i have a throttle lock (cruise control) on mine so i can lock it down at a set rpm and go from there, luckily my bike was old man owned so its in great shape he even tagged what wire is for what under the seat etc.

          had a vetter fairing on it but was too sr-71 looking for me lol

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            #20
            Originally posted by almarconi View Post
            Brakes or suspension upgrades.

            What good is going fast if you can't stop
            stainless lines should be added as a matter of course... and don't count as an upgrade - progressive springs in the front end, sort the oil and some upgraded rear shocks should be fine. don't be tight, give it what it needs ... lol

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              #21
              yeah i know i need new pads just passed insp last year so.

              and i know about suspension since i am building a fox body drag car so i know how much it helps in performance and control

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