Back to old jets

[RacingJake]

Well after buying the K&N jet kit for my 82 1100E, I had problems with it running to rich. Used the 138, 114 and 110 jets and all cause the bike to bogg down and 1/8 mile results where 2-3th slower and a drop of 3 to 6 mph. So the old jets with the old needles went back in and the bike is running great again. You figure with K&N pods and a 4 into 1 open exhaust it would need more fuel??. Even changed the front sprocket from a 15 to a 14 and lost 1th of a second so the 15 went back on, thinking of changing the rear sprocket from a 42 to a 41 to see what happens next.

Jake

[first timer]

did you oil the k and n filters yourself? i would say try reinstalling the jet kit use, use one of the middle sized jets you have) and try running your bike without the filters for a ride and see if that fixes it. did you install that little reduces thing they give you to glue into the carbs? my bike was being difficult and after many attepmts at screwing with the carbs it ended up being the filters were not letting enough air in, the bike would run real well with out the filters. so i bought the right k and n i needed and it was fine until i reoiled them and added to much oil and i was back at the same problem.

i hope this helps.

ryan

[KEITH KRAUSE]

ANY motor that has pods and a pipe installed is going to run lean and hot on the stock jets/needle position. If you had problems with "bogging" it could also be the needle adjusted too high. I know the main controls wide open throttle,but there is an overlap effect the needle has on the main. Let me give you my own experience.
I have a Dynojet kit too,K&N pods and a V&H pipe.('79 GS1000E) I installed the 142 main and put the needle clip in #3 and tested. The bike was very strong on top end,but slight hesitation at steady 60-80mph. To get rid of the hesitation I put the needle in #4,raising the needle a notch. I thought it was gonna run great. I tested it on the same road and same conditions and even opened the throttle exactly as before and was amazed at how much it was bogging. It obviously could not burn the richer mixture fast enough. It made no difference if I punched the throttle or just rolled it open,it still bogged.
I then made a 1/2 notch needle adjustment using a spacer on top the e-clip,thus lowering the needle. The bike runs great at every rpm now. The main was never changed. I know that the jetting charts and other info we read always tells us the main controls 3/4 throttle and beyond. But I know the needle has a noticable effect in this same range.
For you to say going from a 138 main to a 112 had no effect on bogging and richness makes me think at least part of the problem is elsewhere,possibly the needle position.
PSid you remove the floatbowl vent tubes? I am not as familiar with your "CV" carbs as I am the "VM's",but I think this still applies?

[RacingJake]

Thanks for the info, I did run with no AC and that didnt help either, I think the problem is with the tamper of the needle. It's only half the size of the stock needle during max throttle. The K&N kit said it was tested on a 95 GSX1100 and showed only 10 HP increased in mid range and not much inprovement at top end. But I don't know what the max rpm of a 95 GSX 1100 as my 82 1100E is redline at 9K. So I'll just keep the kit until more mods are completed and a richer mixture is needed. Right now the bike has a best 1/8 mile at 7.48 at 93 mph. The next step is to add racing gas and increase the timing and see what happens.

Jake