Katana wheel swap - WTH?

[salty_monk]

I don't think you're understanding my point #2.

I'm talking about the bush/spacer inside the sprocket drive that goes inside the drive bearing on one side & butts up against the wheel bearing on the other side.

I was able to grind that bush down where it touches the wheel bearing in order to move the whole sprocket drive in towards the centre of the wheel. That effectively makes the wheel/drive combo narrower so you'll need extra spacer on the brake side.

If you really needed to my sprocket drive seemed to have plenty of material available to take of 5mm or so. That was my backup plan.

[Big T]

Dan,

I see

You mean I can grind down that spacer and get the sprocket drum deeper into the hub

That sounds easier than machining the hub

I'll pull it all apart later and see what space I can gain there

[posplayr]

Dan,

I see

You mean I can grind down that spacer and get the sprocket drum deeper into the hub

That sounds easier than machining the hub

I'll pull it all apart later and see what space I can gain there

I dont think machining means using a grinder . Any error is machining a spacer will far exceed the runout error of the sprocket compared to machining the sprocket mounting face. 0.005" error on the spacer will be much larger at the sprocket radius as compared to just a 0.005" erro machining the face. A little care required.

[Big T]

I dont think machining means using a grinder . Any error is machining a spacer will far exceed the runout error of the sprocket compared to machining the sprocket mounting face. 0.005" error on the spacer will be much larger at the sprocket radius as compared to just a 0.005" erro machining the face. A little care required.

Jim,

You know we're discussing the ***** shaped spacer that floats in the sprocket drum and sits against the wheel bearing, right? I don't see how improper grinding of the tip could increase run out, as the other end of the spacer is floating inside the sprocket drum bearing taking up space.

Anyway, I'm going to pull it all part later and remove the spacer and cush drives to see if any clearance can be gained between the wheel hub and sprocket drum before I start removing any material.

At any rate, I have a machinist I can take it to for his opinion once I have some options

[posplayr]

Jim,

You know we're discussing the ***** shaped spacer that floats in the sprocket drum and sits against the wheel bearing, right? I don't see how improper grinding of the tip could increase run out, as the other end of the spacer is floating inside the sprocket drum bearing taking up space.

Anyway, I'm going to pull it all part later and remove the spacer and cush drives to see if any clearance can be gained between the wheel hub and sprocket drum before I start removing any material.

At any rate, I have a machinist I can take it to for his opinion once I have some options

Todd,
Without a picture or the parts I might be getting corn fused, but the sprocket carrier stays alighned with the wheel by virture of the machined surfaces on the spacer. The sprocket is centered in rubber, but I'm not sure how well that will do to keep the sprocket carrier aligned if the spacer were not cut square.
Jim

[salty_monk]

Yes, that's exactly what I mean. I had to relieve some ribs in the cush drive in key areas (didn't really need too but I did just to make sure I didn't get any metal to metal contact).

I managed to get it very Square & accurate with a disk grinder mounted in a vice & held by hand (using big leather gauntlets - it gets hot!)

Take your time & regular use of accurate calipers helps highlight the high spots. It is hard so that helps as material doesn't just disappear at a rate you can't control.

My sprocket drive is now inset of the wheel hub about 2mm from memory once it's all bolted up & the cush drive etc is working fine it seems.

Dan

[Big T]

Dan,

It doesn't look like grinding down the spacer will work



That's because the wheel hub



And the sprocket drum



Both have 55 x 12 mm male/female joint combination.Both of these would have to be ground down to shorten the distance. So, it looks like getting the sprocket mounting face will have to be examined next.

I took out the spacer and the cush drives and only gained 1 mm. I could probably get that much when it gets tightened down.

[dlanes]

Any progress with this?

[Big T]

Nope, been too busy to get an accurate measurement to take to the machinist

I'll need to remove the correct amount of material from the sprocket drum to get a minimum clearance on the swingarm. I can swap spacers (or make a new one) to get the wheel centered, but as it sits now the bolts hit the swingarm when the wheel is centered.

I can't just take a bunch off the sprocket drum as then the chain will hit the tire.

Coming soon

[Billy Ricks]

If you grind on the bearing support, that's what it really is, make certain that the meat comes off the outboard end of the support. It's there to keep the bearings centered within themselves. If you take it off the outboard end the spacer that fits in the sprocket carrier should sit a little further down in the carrier.

[Big T]

Nope, I'll just be removing the face where the sprocket rides, Looks to be about 40 mm deep, so taking 6 mm off shouldn't hurt

I can see that I'll have to extend the threads on the bolts also. Then chop off the excess bolt once the locking nut is on. Unless the machinist has a better idea

[Billy Ricks]

Nope, I'll just be removing the face where the sprocket rides, Looks to be about 40 mm deep, so taking 6 mm off shouldn't hurt

I can see that I'll have to extend the threads on the bolts also. Then chop off the excess bolt once the locking nut is on. Unless the machinist has a better idea

If you're talking about taking it off the surface the sprocket bolts to that won't do anything to move the wheel to the left. It will help line up the sprockets but you'll still have the same amount of spacers, bearings, and bearing supports to deal with. You have to find some way to move it to the left but that won't do it. You could do a combination of milling the carrier where the sprocket rides then take some off the very outer edge of the carrier where the spacer fits in the seal. Then the spacer itself will need to be milled and the seal cut down so it doesn't extend beyond the carrier.

When I did my rear wheel I used an assortment of spacers to get the wheel where it needed to be. I also ground a little off the outside edge of the caliper hanger just to give me a little more space in the swingarm.

[salty_monk]

You can also take some material off where you indicate... That's what I did.

Dan

Dan,

It doesn't look like grinding down the spacer will work



That's because the wheel hub



And the sprocket drum



Both have 55 x 12 mm male/female joint combination.Both of these would have to be ground down to shorten the distance. So, it looks like getting the sprocket mounting face will have to be examined next.

I took out the spacer and the cush drives and only gained 1 mm. I could probably get that much when it gets tightened down.

[Big T]

If you're talking about taking it off the surface the sprocket bolts to that won't do anything to move the wheel to the left. It will help line up the sprockets but you'll still have the same amount of spacers, bearings, and bearing supports to deal with. You have to find some way to move it to the left but that won't do it. You could do a combination of milling the carrier where the sprocket rides then take some off the very outer edge of the carrier where the spacer fits in the seal. Then the spacer itself will need to be milled and the seal cut down so it doesn't extend beyond the carrier.

When I did my rear wheel I used an assortment of spacers to get the wheel where it needed to be. I also ground a little off the outside edge of the caliper hanger just to give me a little more space in the swingarm.

I know that

I can move the wheel far enough to the left to be centered, the sprocket bolts then hit the swingarm.

That's the problem.

Sprocket bolts hit the swingarm (should I say it again?)

That's why I'm going to move the sprocket inboard by shaving the face of the drum

[Big T]

You can also take some material off where you indicate... That's what I did.

Dan

Dan,

I would have to grind the wheel hub male, the sprocket drum female, the spacer plus all 5 splines to gain anything at that junction.

Shaving the sprocket face sounds easier