I just Bought a Nitrous Kit

[rapidray]

I tried it, for street ridding, it sucks because:
1_Yes a big hassle to install$$.
2_ The bottle has to refilled again and again$$$.
3_It melts a hole through standard pistons$$$$$.
But there's always another chump to buy it off you˘˘˘, after you've learned the hard way$$$.
Bill

1. No it's not. One afternoon worth of time.
2. So what? We know that going into the job!
3. ONLY if you don't know what you are doing or get greedy!
Squeeze is the next best thing to the 3-4000 a hair dryer kit will cost & you can be sneaky & hide the Nitrous where you CAN'T hide the hair dryer!!! Fun stuff for a VERY affordable price!! Ray.

[Agemax]

nitrous will work on any engine perfectly safely if it is installed correctly, without doing any damage

[RacingJake]

It's not the HP but the Torque your going to love, she'll pull like a train.

Make sure your pointed straight before hitting the button and maybe a few spare tire's too.

[bikerphil]

Why use the excuse of 'its a lot of hassle to fit' ??? It's a lot of hassle to put ur helmet on to go for a ride its a lot of hassle to stop and put fuel in it, but if you don't do it you don't go for a ride. It's also a lot of hassle for me to type a reply to quench the nay sayers!

If you don't do something you'll spend the whole of the rest of your life not doing it.
If you do it, it may take a few hours but then it's out of the way and you did it!

A 20hp shot will make a fantastic difference to your bike, especially as someone mentioned - the torque. On the dyno my bike went from 80 odd ftlb to 120ftlb from just a 36hp shot. It also gained 36hp or therabouts.
You would have to make a fundamental mistake installing it to melt pistons with only a 20hp shot. It will only be really useful on the drag strip but it will take a few tenths of your quarter times.

Enjoy

[skip]

I ran nitrous on my 1150 for fifteen years. I only used it occasionally and at the drag strip. I probably refilled my 2 lb bottle 20 times or so over the fifteen year period. My motor held up fine for a very long time. I did put heavy studs in the block and i had the crank balanced and welded. I also put in a heavy duty clutch basket. I had a 1229 weisco kit in mine and my pistons suffered absolutely no damage over the years. My cylinder walls did begin to oval around year 15 and i developed some piston slap noise so I sent the motor out and put a new set of cylinders on it with new rings , but used the same pistons. My motor also had high performance cams, head porting etc but never self destructed under nitrous. Mine was a 40 hp kit. Like i said I used it sparingly for the most part

[Turtleface]

I tried it, for street ridding, it sucks because:
3_It melts a hole through standard pistons$$$$$.
Bill

How's that? I've run nitrous on various automotive engines through the years, both stock, and decidedly non-stock. I never experienced any sort of engine damage in any of the motors I had a hand in building. Are GS pistons exceptionally soft or something?

[Agemax]

its not just a case of "hitting a button" you should only use it at full throttle. most kits come with a WOT micro switch to activate it.
if you simply activate it at 2000 rpm in top gear,then yes, you will lunch your motor

[Nicholaschase29]

I need to get some new intake boots for it - I have the metal nozzle grommets to thread the nozzles into in the boots. It has a WOT switch and i'm going to wire it through my horn. I'm trying to figure out bottle location and I should get a larger bottle as this one will empty pretty quickly. Here are the specs for the kit.

Jetting------HP per cylinder------Consumption
16 / 18-------9 BHP---------------.1 lb./ 10 sec.
18 / 22------12 BHP---------------.15 lb. / 10 sec.
20 / 24------15 BHP---------------.18 lb./ 10 sec.
22 / 26------17 BHP---------------.20 lb. / 10 sec.

Also, here's a link to instructions for the entire kit:

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/A5058-SNOS.pdf

So total HP could be + 36,48,60,68 HP. You can see how my 10oz (5/8lb) bottle isn't going to last long. But I think half of it is for its novelty. Does anyone know the rules as far as bottle location and the nylon lines that go between the solenoid and nozzles for the street and strip?

[skip]

I had a 2 lb bottle totally hidden. It was under the seat between the two side covers on my 1150. a 2lb bottle got me 4 decent 1/4 mile runs

[trippivot]

nirous is clean, easy, and very predictable.

horror stories come from careless tuners and ham fisted idiots.

bottle explosions from using a torch to get the pressure up.
bottles coming loose and crashing on the pavement at 100mph++
back fire explosion from too low of rpm engagement causing a clothing fire at speed.
I have more I could share....

I've seen both good and explosive results. proceed with caution. be aware, use your best judgement on the conservative side when dealing with this stuff.

we commonly use a 20/24 the 22/26 is a little much unless your top ring end gap is over 0.060 and the piston to cylinder clearance is 3-4 times the normal regular engine clearance . in the range of .008" instead of .002"

a good nitrous engine is very loose and considered worn out to normally aspirated engines clearances. your piston crown WILL expand under the pressure and load. more than it ever has before the giggle gas.

another thing... nitrouss is like cocaine.
" used to do a little then a little got a more and more" Just keep tryin to go a little faster-- a little faster than before.

[Big Jay]

I need to get some new intake boots for it - I have the metal nozzle grommets to thread the nozzles into in the boots. It has a WOT switch and i'm going to wire it through my horn. I'm trying to figure out bottle location and I should get a larger bottle as this one will empty pretty quickly. Here are the specs for the kit.

Jetting------HP per cylinder------Consumption
16 / 18-------9 BHP---------------.1 lb./ 10 sec.
18 / 22------12 BHP---------------.15 lb. / 10 sec.
20 / 24------15 BHP---------------.18 lb./ 10 sec.
22 / 26------17 BHP---------------.20 lb. / 10 sec.

Also, here's a link to instructions for the entire kit:

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/A5058-SNOS.pdf

So total HP could be + 36,48,60,68 HP. You can see how my 10oz (5/8lb) bottle isn't going to last long. But I think half of it is for its novelty. Does anyone know the rules as far as bottle location and the nylon lines that go between the solenoid and nozzles for the street and strip?

Drilling and tapping the bottom of the intake port is a way better idea than putting the foggers in the boots.

[Agemax]

Drilling and tapping the bottom of the intake port is a way better idea than putting the foggers in the boots.

would utilizing the screw holes in the head for the carb balancing adaptors not be a better idea?

[rapidray]

No because you would have to drill them & tap to 1/8 pipe thread & then you would have no sync port left. Also, the best place to install for the best spray pattern is DIRECTLY in the bottom of the port.

[80GS1000]

Just curious - no experience with NOS here. How do you add more fuel on a carb'ed bike/car for when the nitrous system has been activated to handle the O2 injection from the NOS? On a fuel injected bike/car, seems like it'd be easier to dump in more fuel when the laughing gas injection is active since the system is all computer controlled.

[Nicholaschase29]

There are two types of systems - wet and dry nitrous. Wet nitrous injections is spraying both fuel and nitrous into the engine, while dry nitrous is just spraying nitrous. The kit I have is a wet kit so a line runs from a fuel pump to a fuel solenoid and then that connects to one end of the fogger/nozzle. The nitrous goes from the nitrous bottle to the nitrous solenoid and then to another input on the fogger. The fuel and nitrous mix and are sprayed out the nozzle. Different jets can be placed in the nozzles to control the size of the shot.