Installing a Dyna S - Timing

[srsupertrap]

My Dyna S installation on my GS1000 was easy. After installation, I timed it with a strobe timing light and adjusted the entire plate so the F mark on the 1&4 was aligned at idle. Then raised the rpm over 2500 rpm and made sure it was advancing fully to vertical index mark. I moved the timing light pick up to the inboard cylinder and checked 2&3 F mark and all the marks were aligned and advanced correctly. This suggests my Dyna S 1&4 and 2&3 pick ups were positioned correctly at the factory.

[chef1366]

I double checked mine with a light. I had static timed it with a degree wheel.
I was retarded a degree or two so I rotated the plate counterclockwise to advance it. Checked it with the 32 degree mark I made for the 2&3, rotated plate and then checked 1&4 which was dead on.
Pulled my plugs after lowering my pilot jet today to 47.5 and they were perfect.
I was nervous because I was running between 270-280F. It is 105 here today.

[salty_monk]

1978 GS1000E.

I suspect it has marks both sides because it's a points bike - the points could be adjusted independently so you'd need both marks.

On the 80+ bikes the triggers are fixed to the plate hence no need for additional marks on 2-3.

3 marks for both... T, F then a 3rd line to the right of that which is the one I used for full advance.
Dan

What bike is this that has all three marks on the 2-3 side? Mine only has the T mark on that side.

[salty_monk]

3 marks for both... T, F then a 3rd line to the right of that which is the one I used for full advance.






Dan

[salty_monk]

Nope pretty sure it had 2 marks for both... Will check later today

[chef1366]

I thought mine only had two marks on there but I'll have to take another look.
They were the same for 1-4 and 2-3...
Hope I timed it up to the right ones.
Ran ok in the garage....

You sure you didn't only have a TDC mark for 2&3?

[salty_monk]

I thought mine only had two marks on there but I'll have to take another look.
They were the same for 1-4 and 2-3...
Hope I timed it up to the right ones.
Ran ok in the garage....

Well I fitted it statically timed in the full advance position.... Not ridden it yet but have synced it & it's running fine.

My timing light would read an accurate RPM (has an LCD display that shows Volts, RPM etc) from the pickup but it wouldn't give me a light so I think it's likely that the light itself is faulty....

Think I'm going to work out how much the marks have to move to = 1 degree of extra advance by measuring (measure the diameter at the marks & the use Pi x D to get the circumference, then divide that by 360, will that work?? - now I've written this down I'm not so sure at all, think this is rubbish but will leave it in here to be knocked down in flames....) & then I will take it out & play with it, maybe advance it a degree or half a degree & try it (up a hill so under load) if I get a chance.

Anyone how much rotation (movement at the screws) is 1 degree on these?

My idea would be to measure between the t and f marks and divide that by 12 for 12 degrees advance, that would give you an amount for each degree.

[salty_monk]

Well I fitted it statically timed in the full advance position.... Not ridden it yet but have synced it & it's running fine.

My timing light would read an accurate RPM (has an LCD display that shows Volts, RPM etc) from the pickup but it wouldn't give me a light so I think it's likely that the light itself is faulty....

Think I'm going to work out how much the marks have to move to = 1 degree of extra advance by measuring (measure the diameter at the marks & the use Pi x D to get the circumference, then divide that by 360, will that work?? - now I've written this down I'm not so sure at all, think this is rubbish but will leave it in here to be knocked down in flames....) & then I will take it out & play with it, maybe advance it a degree or half a degree & try it (up a hill so under load) if I get a chance.

Anyone how much rotation (movement at the screws) is 1 degree on these?

Just curious how did you get the mark for the 2&3?

I used my calipers to measure it on the 1-4 side and transferred it to the 2-3 side. I used a dab of paint to mark the spot.

[chef1366]

I timed 1&4 first, then checked 2&3, had to adjust 2&3 a little.

Just curious how did you get the mark for the 2&3?

Did you time the 2&3 32 degrees full advance and check the mark on the 1&4?

I timed 1&4 first, then checked 2&3, had to adjust 2&3 a little.

[chef1366]

Well me likey the Dyna S, went for a ride today and the front wheel got really light part way through second, I dont even think I had it wide open.
I am not sure if my gearing is close to a stock 1100, because I am running the 750's 18 inch rear wheel with 16/49 sprocket sizes. I might be geared a little taller than stock, I dont know.

Did you time the 2&3 32 degrees full advance and check the mark on the 1&4?

Well me likey the Dyna S, went for a ride today and the front wheel got really light part way through second, I dont even think I had it wide open.
I am not sure if my gearing is close to a stock 1100, because I am running the 750's 18 inch rear wheel with 16/49 sprocket sizes. I might be geared a little taller than stock, I dont know.