Recommendations, boring, ballancing

[Mekanix]

Plugs are tan so far. What size did you drill the slides Pete.

[Mekanix]

Had it out yesterday, Pulls better now.

The front gets really light when shifting from first to second :P

I'll try and get a driving video this week.

[pete]

That sounds like fun

Looking forward to the video!

[Mekanix]

I've been meaning to get a video but my camera couldn't handle it and finally died :P

Now I have a go-pro to try it with.

I've put about 130 km on it so far and I'm playing with the jetting a little more...

It originally felt spongy in mid range. Now I've cut 1/2 inch off of the springs and raised the needles 2 notches. I can't raise the needle any more than that without fouling plugs. I'm thinking of dropping it again and just messing with the springs and slide hole.

Result so far: Wheelies in first gear and clutch slips when pulling from 5-8k in any gear. Launches off of speed bumps :P

So I'm looking for heavier springs for the gs500 clutch I have in there.

[pete]

Awesome! I gotta see video of this

One thing I noticed with mine is now my mains are close to right I've had to drop my needles back down, it was also a bit lacking (borderline bogging) in the midrange like you're saying.

I now have a shim in and stock needle position, so they're half a notch richer than stock.

While out playing yesterday I did a few tests at WOT where I'd hold there then let the throttle back to about 3/4 or so and it kept pulling, tells me my 145's are still a touch too big...

One of the guys made a comment the other week that when you get your main right on these CV's you should be able to go back close to stock needle position, and that's what got me thinking/fiddling again.

So far it's much crisper on the throttle up until the main kicks in...

[ben2go]

I've been meaning to get a video but my camera couldn't handle it and finally died :P

Now I have a go-pro to try it with.

I've put about 130 km on it so far and I'm playing with the jetting a little more...

It originally felt spongy in mid range. Now I've cut 1/2 inch off of the springs and raised the needles 2 notches. I can't raise the needle any more than that without fouling plugs. I'm thinking of dropping it again and just messing with the springs and slide hole.

Result so far: Wheelies in first gear and clutch slips when pulling from 5-8k in any gear. Launches off of speed bumps :P

So I'm looking for heavier springs for the gs500 clutch I have in there.

I have a clutch write up on GS twins.I used EBC kevlar friction discs for a 1st gen SV650 and Barnett clutch springs for a 1st gen SV650.Beware,it's double the stiffness and takes a strong hand to hold the clutch in for extended periods.Bob B over there runs 3 stock springs and 3 Barnett springs for less clutch pull effort.It's still better than stock.

[RustyStuff]

Any updates?

That is probably the meanest GS twin on earth.

[Mekanix]

Not much to update. Its stored for the winter. I took the battery out yesterday and surprisingly its still holding >13v

[Mekanix]

First update of the year,
Took the bike out yesterday and it felt good. Still ran just the same as last year but the carb's are just not right.

I tried raising the needle since I don't have any specialy tapered needles and it made cruising impossible.

The entire midrange was way too rich.

so I dropped it back to center and thinking of going leaner 1 notch since its super sensitive to that needle now.

Weird thing is that I have one cylinder richer than the other so I'm going to tear them apart soon unless I can find some good 500 carbs cheap off ebay.
I like the way the 500 likes to just take the gas where the 540 wants more throttle to do the same.

I'm sure its just a matter of setting up the carbs properly but I'm just playing with them for now and trying things out.
Have to say that the big bore does feel better, just not up to its potential yet and I'm sure my pipes are a big restriction right now!
Looking for a nice set of slip-on's that go with the L cruiser theme.


The worst thing this year is the rust! Its amazing what can happen over the winter even when stored inside.
so I've been cleaning up everything and getting ready for the usual maintenance.
On top of that I need a new rear tire since this one has good thread but is weather cracked



And on top of that, my first run reveled a dying RR. So I'm going to do some investigating and see what failed.
It still puts out enough to run the bike so that's good but there's allot of ripple that I can see in the lights.
First sign of that was my voltmeter hitting 18V!!! Some glad I installed that thing !
Checked the fuses and all connections and it seemed to behave after that with no problems so ?????
Have to dig into it.
Sucks because I just gave away an sh775 to a friend lol.

[tkent02]

And on top of that, my first run reveled a dying RR. So I'm going to do some investigating and see what failed.
It still puts out enough to run the bike so that's good but there's allot of ripple that I can see in the lights.
First sign of that was my voltmeter hitting 18V!!! Some glad I installed that thing !
Checked the fuses and all connections and it seemed to behave after that with no problems so ?????
Have to dig into it.
Sucks because I just gave away an sh775 to a friend lol.

Don't ride it like that! You can fry ignitors, lights, the stator, and some other expensive and hard to find stuff.

[Mekanix]

Don't ride it like that! You can fry ignitors, lights, the stator, and some other expensive and hard to find stuff.

lol I got it Tom. I pretty much puted it back home under 2500 after I saw that :P
Voltage was steady at 12.8 under 3000 and I even thought about just pulling the charging fuse just to get it home.
Although I do happen to have all the goodies to replace if I have to replace anything.
Weird though that it just stopped regulating for no reason and then started again :P
After I got home I looked things over and it started behaving as normal.
I'll be changing out the regulator for sh775 as soon as I find a good one cheap.
Got any leads ?

[ben2go]

Check your grounds and make sure they're not corroded.I replace all my R/R with mosfet units.They aren't much more money than new and the charge is a lot cleaner and steadier.I have FH012 R/R on all my bikes.I find them used for under $50 on ebay.There are Kits available with all new parts.You can use connectors or standard .250female spade connectors.Lots of info on the net about up grading to these R/R.

[mrbridgeport]

Thoroughly enjoyed reading this entire thread this morning. Learned and relearned a bunch of stuff. I'd love to have a copy of you compression ratio spreadsheet you built. Seems like a nice little tool to have around. Really impressed. Rays headooked great and the patience and craft Stephen has executed is just fantastic. Love this site. Need to donate some money to the site. Great stuff!

[GregT]

You don't need to change needles to match the air/fuel ratio to your bigger motor. If you had slide type carbs you would change the cutaways to tune it. You can do the same thing on CV's by enlarging the vacuum sensing holes on the bottom of the slides to increase the rate of lift and thus provide the extra air it seems to need.
Go up in .10mm steps and I think you'll like the results.

[ben2go]

You don't need to change needles to match the air/fuel ratio to your bigger motor. If you had slide type carbs you would change the cutaways to tune it. You can do the same thing on CV's by enlarging the vacuum sensing holes on the bottom of the slides to increase the rate of lift and thus provide the extra air it seems to need.
Go up in .10mm steps and I think you'll like the results.

I did the same thing by cutting 10mm off my slide springs.It helped a lot.