Recommendations, boring, ballancing

[Mekanix]

Thanks platinum2 but my stock pistons are 67mm and all the sleeves i have are worn. I would like the increased compression keeping stock piston size but i need to bore to at least 68mm to clean up the cylinders.

[Mekanix]

Cylinders bored, Head decked, and shortened sleeves.









Here is where my pictures will be:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61692938@N08/page5/

[Nessism]

Looking forward to seeing this engine going back together.

A bevel on the bottom of those cylinders would assist getting the pistons installed.

[Mekanix]

thanks Nessism

That's something I'm going to ask for when I have the case machined to the block.

[pete]

Nice to see you back into it! And having put my cylinders back on using my fancy ring compressors (my fingers), a bevel is a damn good idea... I would've been screwed if there wasn't one there from the factory...

Definitely looking forward to seeing this go back together also

[GregT]

For those with ambitions of the ultimate twin. I 'd point out that Toyota 4AGE from '85 to '87 used an 18mm gudgeon pin....81mm bore.

Wiseco do forged pistons for them too....

You'd have to sort sleeves and bore the block to the max to fit them, but a quick measure up says it's possible.

[Mekanix]

My block with the GR650 sleeves is as big as I would go with this cylinder block. It gets really thin in the middle of the sleeve.

81mm is possible and it leaves 2mm left.

[platinum2]

Cylinders bored, Head decked, and shortened sleeves.









Here is where my pictures will be:
/www.flickr.com/photos/61692938@N08/page5/

they cut the sleeves but didnt taper the lips?, pain in the arse putting pistons in with out it

[Mekanix]

Actually I cut them myself by hand.



I had the block bored, then I baked and set the sleeves. After that I cut the sleeves to length and had a shop bore to 78mm and plane the head.

I'm going to ask them to add a taper to the cylinders when they bore the case to match the cylinder block.

[platinum2]

wow i searched a lil , found nothing , i dont know what your going to do for good caamshafts, send them in to web or somewhere i guess, thats going to kill the build with out good cams

[platinum2]

how are you degreeing the cams if the sprockets are not adjustable?
you got lots done though, well i believe web cams will hard weld your cams and give them a mean profile ,you might want to call them, i dont think there is to much out there for that bike, orient express maybe or another cam company, port work would really help even if you use the stock cams just a suggestion
why mess with such a odd bike? why not just put that money into a 700/750/or 1100???

[Mekanix]

I'm going to remove the pin and slot the gears slightly. I only need about 3-4 degrees of retard on the cams to bring it back to stock. I think I'm going with the stock cams for now and see what I can get. The 1100 and 750 cams look like they would fit if you cut the outside lobes off. I have to do the math and see if the distances and bearing journal sizes are the same but if that works then there are lots of options.

Port work is something I have to learn. I can clean but I don't know what to take off and where. Its not something I've thought about or researched yet.


This bike has some sentimental value to me and I find the 1100 is too heavy of a bike for me for now. I'm 5'6 155 lbs.

Then there's the problem of finding a bike. Around here the 750's and 1100's are pretty rare. But when I can get one I will know what to do to get the most out of it.

Really this is half of an 1100 so I can imagine doing up one wouldn't be that hard.

I bought this bike as my first and I got my license on it.

This is a first for me and I'm doing this just for the learning experience and to see what can be done with it.
Also, all the parts that are going into this are one of a kind because finding stock parts is hard.

I've learned allot now and I think i could get away with a stock engine and push it just a bit and get more than enough power with it. But since I started this project, it would be a shame to stop now.



From this I've learned how to:

Bore cylinders
remove and install sleeves
machine cases
disassemble and reassemble this engine to spec
plastigage bearings
replace plain bearings
how to read micrometers, calipers, feeler gauges, And I own all of those now.
degree cams for specific power bands or check cam timing
slotting cam sprockets
Shim cylinder block
make shims
make gaskets
valve reliefs in pistons,
compression ratio ( I even made an excel formula from scratch to do the calcs)
combustion chamber size
piston to valve clearances
tolerences


Tonight I opened up the case myself, Shop I took it to sold me the bit and told me how to do it. And turns out the bit is $25 and labor would be $70 for them to do it so I did it myself

The block fits into the case now and I'm going to have to clean it up with something less abrasive. Pics to come.

[GregT]

Cam lobe centers - most Suzuki 4V heads love 104/104 lobe centers.
If you stick with the stock cams to get it running just pull out the locating pins and slot the cam sprockets. They don't move if done up properly.
Cams - I'd look seriously at a set of stock GSXR1100 cams - either the early 1052 motor or the later 1127cc - if the journals are the same size, yes by all means cut the ends off.
Ray seems to fit GSXR cams to the 16v 1100 GS's so I'd imagine they would fit the twin too.
I don't think shimming the pressure relief valve is necessary on the twins - I didn't on my 450 which is pretty much the same bottom end, and no probs running it to around 10 grand...

Good progress - carry on...

[Mekanix]

Thanks GregT, I'll go with 104,104.

Here is the progress







Its not too clean but it is my first time.

[platinum2]

it will be a neat bike thats for sure your doin good so far