Recommendations, boring, ballancing

[Mekanix]

Alright, I was just curious but your right.

Its hard not knowing what to ask sometimes though I'm taking it all in as I make progress.



I'm at a static compression of 11.3 :1 with a 0.043 head gasket and 0 deck height.

That's before cutting new valve reliefs.

On the other hand it might be fun to do the calculations for the 78mm bore and 67mm bore,just to see how it came from the factory and how the bigger bore affects this.Ihave no idea,but it'll give you something to do while you wait for info on how much you can get out of your JE's. It's out there, you just gotta believe.Are they 80-83 1100 #128324's?And I agree on getting your static ratio right first,especially as you may not have a lot of choices in longer duration intake cams.Though I wouldn't mind being wrong about that.

I already have an excel sheet full of stuff like that so its really just a matter of plugging in a few numbers to see the difference.

It is a 1260 kit I believe, yeah that's the number 128324.

Sending my cam's to Ray to have them reground means that I can get any profile.

[mawg]

So just cutting new valve reliefs may be enough?Yahoo.

[Mekanix]

So just cutting new valve reliefs may be enough?Yahoo.

Yeah, If not I can take more out of the head and clean it up some more.

I have 19cc in the head now and 2cc from the valve reliefs. All i need is another 2cc for a static 10.5:1.

There is still a few more cc to be had, I'm just holding off until i get more info on what Ray would suggest for a cam profile.


At the moment I'm waiting to get the cylinder block back from powdercoat.


Next I plan on sending my cam's to Ray, ordering the gaskets from cometic and doing everything necessary to cut the valve reliefs.

[Mekanix]

Some pic's

making my final base shim 0.071" I'm guessing the copercoat on both sides might add another 0.002


Home made from the gs main page.

[rapidray]

You are going to need to put shorter guides in the head for the cams I want to use. Ray.

[Mekanix]

Ok but I think I might have enough valve travel for the larger cam's.

After we spoke I did some measuring.

The Effective valve lift with stock "slightly worn intake cam" is 0.274".

The cam is 0.180" on its own and the Rocker factor is 1.522.

I reassembled the the spare head with one valve and retainers without the springs and pushed it all the way down to see the max travel when it hits the valve seal.

That number is 0.378" when lightly seated against the seal.

So with that I think a 355 or 370 cam would work without having to install new valve guides.

Am I right or is there something else I'm missing?



Ray the valve retainer specs are:

ID: 0.287
Step 1 OD: 0.50
Step 2 OD: 0.740
OD: 0.929


Stock springs:
Inner
ID: 0.513
OD: 0.691
height: 1.273

Outer
ID: 0.752
OD: 0.988
height: 1.44

[Mekanix]

Made some progress tonight.
Finished the base shim.

Its 0.071" and I'm hoping that the coper coat will give another 0.002

Also got the block back and started cleaning up the powdercoat over spray


I reassembled the engine to check the cams and they are at 104/107 with full advance on both. Still need to slot the sprockets a little more.

Intake valve clearance is 0.031 at 10 degrees btdc
exhaust is 0.070 at 10 degrees atdc

Going to slot the sprockets more and set to 106/110 as per Ray.

Then check clearances again and determine how much more valve relief is necessary with the 355 or 370 cam's.

I'm just working the numbers so that when i get the cams to 106/110 I'll have the math down easy.

After that I plan on disassembling the head and using it for marking the pistons for valve center.

Hopefully there is enough material in the piston to allow the 0.100 + needed clearance.

[Mekanix]

This seems to be a weekend update thing now :P


I reassembled the engine and made some modifications to the automatic timing tenssioner so that I could use it again.

Now I have the option of using it or removing two chain links and installing a shim between the tensioner and block.

I can't decide what' a better option. I was working on the manual tenssioner until I noticed a hairline crack in it. so I'm probably going to make one from scratch or go APE.


I checked my stock cam's to see what the wear was and its 0.007 difference between the highest and lowest.

I've also maped out the cam profiles in an excell sheet. 0-720 crank degrees stoping every 10 degrees. Its pretty cool to see and it show's how they are asymetrical and how the exhaust is almost the opposite of the intake profile.

[platinum2]

any updates?

[Mekanix]

Progress? Well I finished the base gasket/shim.


Powder coated block


Ray has been taking care of the cams and valve-train parts.

Sent him the head to port and anything else he can do.

In the meantime I've found a scraped bike with a good engine that I can use in the meantime. Just have to pick it up 150km away

[Mekanix]

I need to find some copper washers for the head nuts.

The shim raises the head by 0.051 and that means I loose almost 3 threads on the head nut.

Stock are 2mm thick (0.080)

I need something 10mmx20mmx0.8mm

Any ideas ?

[GregT]

Just use a thin steel washer - a copper one in that thickness would tear as you tightened the nut anyway.
If you are really paranoid it's possible to spot face the head a smidgen in the nut seating areas - won't make a significant difference to the strength of the head.

[Mekanix]

update

Got some washers

Here is whats new.

Ray is going to put some larger valves in, cut down from a set of 1100 valves.

This is what is being done:
8 new valves
16 new springs
4 new rockers
2 ground cam's
porting


Should be interesting

[pete]

This is getting serious! I like it

[7981GS]

Got some washers

Here is whats new.

Ray is going to put some larger valves in, cut down from a set of 1100 valves.

This is what is being done:
8 new valves
16 new springs
4 new rockers
2 ground cam's
porting

Should be interesting

Why not just get new custom-made valves? BTDT.
Now much is it going to cost to have these old/used valves made to fit anyway?

Eric