RS FLATSLIDE goooooroooooo's needed

[katman]

I will check. thanks.

[BlackStar]

I wouldn't consider myself a guru, but on my GS1085 with RS34's my fuel screws are set to around .5 to .75 turns out. 17.5 pilots. Plenty of fuel range indicated by running and smell (unscientific) Sorry, no cool toys for AFR numbers. Header, pods, stock cams, small port heads matched to intake boots.

[paco13]

So, what did you end up with.

I have a like setup, aside for bigger cams and valves, and had the exact same issue.
No a/f meter but symptoms showed the same.

I ended up with;

Floats @ 17mm

#10 pilots

needle @ middle groove

140 mains

screws @ 1.75

acc. pump comes on @1/4 throttle, off @3/4 throttle

[paco13]

Check your ignition advancer and the magnetic trigger/rotor? also.
I have a dyna-S. It had a little slop in it, just a little, and it made a huge difference @ cruise when swapped out for one I had from a 78 750 with no play. Probably should check this first before trying to jet carbs.

[Homie]

Here is my problem.
1166cc, pods, header, stock cams, 36mm rs flat slides.

pilots, 17.5 afr @ idle is 12.9-13.3 (I like that)
mains, 125
needle, center groooooooooove
floats, 18mm
screws, 3 turns

idle is fine, 1/8 turn off idle @ 3-4k rpm afr takes a dump 10.5-11

I have a very similar setup but more cam (see my signature tag below). Remember the fuel "circuitry" in the carb is accumulative from the idle circuit all the way up to the mains. As the throttle is opened each successive circuit builds upon the previous ones until you have them all flowing at WOT. Since they build upon each other it is very important to get the "foundation" (idle) right before moving up to the next level. As we all know the manual slide carbs are more sensitive to tuning and less forgiving than the CV carbs so getting them "right" is a bit trickier". So, here is my two cents worth on the subject:

1. To me, 3 turns out on the idle mixture screws seems way too much. Installing the 20 pilot jets should allow you to turn the idle mixture screws back in to a more reasonable 1 turn or so and still achieve the desired AFR.

2. At an 1/8th turn on the throttle is approx where the needle-jet / jet-needle (nj/jn) circuit kicks in and adds to the flow from the pilot jets. Since the AFR decreases at this point I would assume that the overly rich condition is a result of the pilot jet circuit being off (see 1. above) or the taper of the jet-needle being too abrupt where it comes off the needle-jet seat. No where did I see you mention the jet-needle number (or needle-jet number either for that matter). It could be stock or someone could have changed them in the past before you got them. I would check the profile of the taper on the jet-needles.

3. I suspect that the pilot jet circuit is the root of your problem. So if it were me, I would get the pilot jet circuit corrected first. Then, I would examine the jet-needles / needle-jets and see if they are stock or one of the recommended alternates and correct if they are not.

[Steve]

DEFINITELY not a guru here, especially with flatsides, but I did take a look at the manuals that posplayr linked.
What I saw was the float level is supposed to be 17 +/- 1mm. You said you had them set at 18mm, which would be on the lean side.

You then have your (possibly too small) pilots richened up to compensate. As soon as more than idle-speed air starts moving through, all that richness has to go somewhere.

Doesn't sound like much, but try setting the floats to 17mm and make sure that both floats measure the same, within a few tenths of a mm.

Just a suggestion, but that's what you are asking for.

.

[paco13]

I was trying to avoid lowering the fuel level in mine to avoid starvation @ WOT Like some have experienced. I have a stock petcock, but I had opened the gas cap vent up previously to cure a fuel flow problem.

So after reading KATMAN's specs I decided to tinker some more.

I increased the float height to 18mm, this cured the richness @ 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. I was able to bump the pilots back up to #15 mikuni's. Idle was then rich, so now the screws are @ around 3/4 turn. Needle is still in middle and mains are 140"s. Pulls strong and cruise is clean. WOT pulls strong no signs of starvation. Will have to get to a longer straight to hold it WO longer and see, so far just short runs.

[Pigford]

Here's my set up with Mikuni Flatslides - after a DYNO run......

The bike is 1075cc (Kawasaki tho'!!!!) KZ1000 1978 - gas flowed, standard cams & RS36 - D3 -K with K&N's, ....

135 main - 17.5 pilot - Fuel screw (NOT air screw!) 1 turn out - float 17mm (+/- 0.5mm) -Needles = 9DZH1 mid clip (3)

Assuming all rubber manifolds are good - no air leaks, etc.... If older RS carbs with plastic slides (throttle valves) check for cracks.....