Last race of the year, Bike ran it's fastest

[RacingJake]

Last night I laid down a 7.18 at 97 mph in the 1/8 mile at our last race of the year. During eliminations I broke out with a 0.0023 and on the buy back I was off my dial with a 0.0158 and the other guy was off this dial by 0.0149, that was one close race. But that's ok cause I got a 1166 13.5 to 1 piston and block combo now and won a air shifter off of e-bay last night and found a set of 33 smoothies for $200 at the track. This bike is going to be in the 6's for 2004 and when 2005 rolls around I'm shooting for the 5's.

Dam, I hate winter . I want to race :twisted: :twisted:

Jake

[rosco15]

Jake,

You need the low compression kit so you can push button start it. I dont know if the onboard starter will handle that much compression for very long. You dont want to go to the outboard starter setup. A pain in the but.

Ryan

https://www.rccracing.com

[RacingJake]

Jake,

You need the low compression kit so you can push button start it. I dont know if the onboard starter will handle that much compression for very long. You dont want to go to the outboard starter setup. A pain in the but.

Ryan
www.rccracing.com

That's what I heard too. But I'll try it and retard the timing 20 degrees and see what happens. If it doesnt work then I'll pull the rotor off and install a block off plate with a starter nut. Who knows the guys at our track will even push start it for me.

Jake

[HiSPL]

You could always double up on your base gaskets and drop compression to the 11-1 (ish) range. That should be livable...

[RacingJake]

I got the 13.5-1 pistons and 1166 block installed. I'm waiting for my valve springs/seal and adjustable cam sprockets from Schnitz Racing to show up so in the mean time I'm doing a little clean up in the ports.

I'm thinking of modifing the spark advance so when cranking the timing will be at 0 degrees or even less and once running the timing will go to 35 degrees.

Jake

[Anonymous]

Jake,

You need the low compression kit so you can push button start it. I dont know if the onboard starter will handle that much compression for very long. You dont want to go to the outboard starter setup. A pain in the but.

Ryan
www.rccracing.com

That's what I heard too. But I'll try it and retard the timing 20 degrees and see what happens. If it doesnt work then I'll pull the rotor off and install a block off plate with a starter nut. Who knows the guys at our track will even push start it for me.

Jake

Jake i saw a photo somewhere where a racer had notched his ignition cover. There was a lever sticking out and the plate with the pickups was slotted and allowed to move. He would pull the lever back to start the bike then advance it after it started. I believe a spring or something held the timing in the advanced position.

[RacingJake]

Hey Scotty

I saw it too, If my mod to the spark advance fails that will be my next move.

Jake

[Anonymous]

You mean the one on http://www.bertaut.com/gsengine.html

[gtsg01]

Jake

Back in the 70's, I ran a Camaro with a Big Block using 13 to 1 compression. It was almost impossible to start when warm until we modified the ignition wiring.

We used a master switch and a separate switch for the ignition and the starter. The procedure was to turn on the master and hit the starter. Once the engine is spinning, turn on the ignition. It solved all of our starting problems.

It would be easy to modify the RUN/STOP switch to only control the ignition instead of all power.

Just a thought.

[Anonymous]

Hey Scotty

I saw it too, If my mod to the spark advance fails that will be my next move.

Jake

Ok Jake. im watching every move you make on that machine.
I want to run my stock one sized over rear wheel even after i re make a head for that red thing in the garage.

[Anonymous]

You mean the one on http://www.bertaut.com/gsengine.html

YES THATS THE ONE
MY BLOOD STILL BOILS WHEN I SEE CUSTOM SPEED MODS. :twisted: :twisted: 8O 8O

[Anonymous]

Jake

Back in the 70's, I ran a Camaro with a Big Block using 13 to 1 compression. It was almost impossible to start when warm until we modified the ignition wiring.

We used a master switch and a separate switch for the ignition and the starter. The procedure was to turn on the master and hit the starter. Once the engine is spinning, turn on the ignition. It solved all of our starting problems.

It would be easy to modify the RUN/STOP switch to only control the ignition instead of all power.

Just a thought.

HOW COULD THE ENGINE SPIN EASIER AND FASTER WITH THE IGNITION OFF. WAS THE SPARK PARTIALLY IGNITING THE MIXTURE AND CAUSING THE FUEL MIXTURE TO EXPAND DURING THE CRANKING AND SLOWING UP THE ROTATING SPEED OF THE CRANK??

[gtsg01]

You got it Scotty. The reason the engine is hard to crank is the ignition firing the mixture BTDC and trying to push the piston back down the cylinder.

It is not the compression ratio that makes it hard to crank, it is the combustion pressure that is generated due to the increase in compression ratio.

[RacingJake]

It would be easy to modify the RUN/STOP switch to only control the ignition instead of all power.

My run/stop switch in now just a ground switch for my MSD MC2 and the start button is going to be my Nitrous switch when I buy one later this year. My horn switch is hooked up to my air shifter now. I don't use the ignition switch anymore and ripped out 20 feet of wiring that was'nt needed.

I cut part of the plastic housing off the starter soleniod and mounted it upside down. To start my bike all you have to do is use your finger and push the contacts together and bang it starts. So I could leave the run switch off and with my left hand push on the starter soleniod and then switch the stop switch on with my right hand to start this 13.5-1 machine. So it looks like I won't have to do anything.

But I still think by adjusting the timing to ATDC when starting and once the bike is running the advance would go back to 35 degrees with just alittle more bending on the weight stops.
Jake

[Paul]

Jake
If you still have standard ignition advance, the ignition will be retarded until the engine gets above (I think) 1400rpm. If you have locked the ignition timing up (which you should really do for racing reliability) why not fit a delay box?
Also you may need to advance the ignition a few degrees because you have higher compression. This is because the standard ignition timing is designed to fire to give maximum burn of fuel (& therefore biggest "bang") at TDC. This is so it will impart the maximum force to the piston to send it down with maximum speed. Because the fuel/air mixture takes time to burn this is why you need an amount of advance. This applies to all internal combustion engines, & is why they are not 100% efficient.
Because you have put a higher compression ratio, you have increased the combustion pressure which WILL burn at a different speed, probably slower because the pressure is higher and there is more to burn. It cames down to Boyles law (or is it Charles law) which I couldn't understand in science lessons at school!!
So - AT LAST! [-o< - timing will need to be advanced to get best effect. You can experiment to see which gives best times at the track, or put it on dyno.
When you start getting really picky for the last ounce of power you adjust your timing to the temperature/air pressure/humidity - they all affect combustion. That is why you see the pro-teams with their manometer gauges in the pits.