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8V Flow & grind questions

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    8V Flow & grind questions

    I have an 8V V&H prepped head stamped VHR363 (pic below) and am curious about how much this head would flow if anyone might have some history with them?? Also, does the VHR number mean anything other than a serial number? Oh, in addition to the head work, the head has stainless 39mm IN & 33mm EX valves along with appropriate under bucket shims, SS keepers & HD springs.


    Question #2 - Does anyone have the specs on the grind for Andrews 3-S (or is that S-3 ???) cams? I can't find them anywhere.

    Head pics:


    Last edited by dardoonk; 08-14-2011, 10:31 PM.

    #2
    Send an email to V&H ask if they have records

    Comment


      #3
      You have the cams and you would like to sell them?
      I'll take them! How much do you want?


      Daniel

      Comment


        #4
        stock small port max flow is around 65~68. good luck getting over 75CFM from that thing.

        the valve seat/dome surface is very ugly. For a head that looks like that, the name badge and serial number means nothing. I'm sorry but the work is ugly and it looks as if it needs a lot of attention to be up to my personal standards - probably be better off to start over with a new head before the seats fall out.


        I had 40mm intakes and 35mm exhaust maxed out at 90CFM @ .425" thru a large port 1100 8V. a 1105cc engine made approx 140 HP.-and killed cranks with a quickness.



        3-S = .424 lift and 280 degrees
        SUZUKI , There is no substitute

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
          You have the cams and you would like to sell them?
          I'll take them! How much do you want?


          Daniel
          Not for sale, but what are they worth, anyway?


          Originally posted by trippivot View Post
          as if it needs a lot of attention to be up to my personal standards - probably be better off to start over with a new head before the seats fall out.
          Well, I haven't done anything but take it apart at this point. The exhaust ports aren't rough like they look in the one picture & I am concerned with dome on #3, but it looks worse on the picture than it does live. I have no idea how it spent most of its life, but it only has to be on a street bike now.

          How would the seat fall out?? Do you mean I'd be better off porting a new head than just having the seats reworked on this one? Big price difference though

          Thanks for the link on the cams
          Last edited by dardoonk; 08-15-2011, 05:13 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Here is the spec sheet for the andrews cams.

            Comment


              #7
              Hard to tell from that photo but that one combustion chamber looks like it might have had some welding done. It might be worthwhile to find a reputable head guy and have him check it out.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                it will be perfectly fine for low RPM street use.

                Asking the question about max flow had me thinking you were going to build a big bad mama jama to run at 8K~10K all the time. You have plenty of space to mill it for higher compression.

                When you cut a seat for a larger valve you make the seat itself a little weaker and less resistant to heat and pressure. The aluminum around the outer edge of the modified seat should not be unshrouded , that is what holds the seat in place. Heat and abuse of hi RPM operation will put the interference fit of the seat to the test. It is a steel ring pressed into the body of the head.Technically steel and aluminum have different expansion rates. They have been known to fly out and smash everything in it's way. Of course I'm not trying to scare you and it is not very common for this to happen - but occasionally don't ask cause I learned the hard way.

                you want the dome and exhaust to be as smooth as possible. Polish to a mirror finish if you have the time and energy. Any sharp edge will create detonation and pre ignition (like the end of the plug threads) - which you do not want. start coarse and go finer until you have a squirt bottle and 1000 grit for that #3. time and energy makes the stories better and your bike will be faster for the effort.

                intake tract works good with a 180 grit flapper wheel for turbulance.

                remember!! bigger valves need bigger pockets on the piston crown if you set it up tight.- just check valve to piston clearance if you run a low LC number on the intake.

                new cams are 'bout $400
                SUZUKI , There is no substitute

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