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    #16
    I just had my clutch out. Can't remember how many plates there were... Just a lot of them.

    But I need to go back in there.

    Question. Did you drain your oil? It's a pain to remove the exhaust just to drain the oil. And all I want to do is check the clutch and stuff. Can I leave it on the kickstand? I've seen people say you could...

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      #17
      Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
      lame photo I know ... OLD camera ... but when is it obvious that a clutch basket is fried?? ... there's lots of 'gnurling' (?) on the ridges

      AND ... how many plates and fibres are there s'pose to be?? (1100ES) ... it wasn't obvious to me looking at a fiche ... I THINK I may have an extra of both 10 & 11 (?) ... I'll recheck in the morning before the beers

      thanx for any input
      Are you sure you have stock discs? Some aftermarket discs are thinner and come with an extra...
      If you have good OEM discs and new OEM springs, your clutch shouldn't slip...
      If you need 6 aftermarket stiff springs to make it work, something is wrong...
      Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
      '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

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        #18
        That clutch basket looks pretty chewed up. I think (might be wrong) in 1983 Suzuki went to an extra plate type clutch kit for the 1100 which is just as bad as the Barnett version when it comes to chewing up the basket. At any rate, you might want to sand out and really bad ridges, or look for a better basket, and make sure you have a good set of fibers, not the extra plate variety.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #19
          Originally posted by Flaming Chainsaws View Post

          Question. Did you drain your oil? It's a pain to remove the exhaust just to drain the oil. ...
          For sure! (no need to remove this exhaust)
          Look for a deal on a more user friendly exhaust after some paychecks!

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Baatfam View Post
            Are you sure you have stock discs? Some aftermarket discs are thinner and come with an extra...
            If you have good OEM discs and new OEM springs, your clutch shouldn't slip...
            If you need 6 aftermarket stiff springs to make it work, something is wrong...
            cheers for that

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              #21
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              That clutch basket looks pretty chewed up. I think (might be wrong) in 1983 Suzuki went to an extra plate type clutch kit for the 1100 which is just as bad as the Barnett version when it comes to chewing up the basket. At any rate, you might want to sand out and really bad ridges, or look for a better basket, and make sure you have a good set of fibers, not the extra plate variety.
              Thanx, I'll count them today when I get over to storage.

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                #22
                Id you do have a stock 83 clutch pack it will have ten fibers and ten steels.
                These tore up the outer and inner hub so Suzuki went back to the nine and nine on the 1150.
                If you do have the ten fibers I'd get the none FBG fibers and lose one steel. You can file out those deep cuts in the hubs.
                I've had hubs that were so bad the clutch would not release properly and cause slippage.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  Ok, filed away all the nastiness in the clutch basket and it's looking all purdy. I'll need new fibres in the future.
                  1) the plate teeth have a flat edge one side & a slightly rounded edge the other side. Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
                  2) similar question for the fibres ... their 'tabs' are folded on themselves ...Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
                  3) the inside hub has circular 'play' with respect to the outer basket of approx 2 inches back & forth. Is that ok or a bad sign?

                  THANK YOU


                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  Id you do have a stock 83 clutch pack it will have ten fibers and ten steels.
                  These tore up the outer and inner hub so Suzuki went back to the nine and nine on the 1150.
                  If you do have the ten fibers I'd get the none FBG fibers and lose one steel. You can file out those deep cuts in the hubs.
                  I've had hubs that were so bad the clutch would not release properly and cause slippage.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
                    Ok, filed away all the nastiness in the clutch basket and it's looking all purdy. I'll need new fibres in the future.
                    1) the plate teeth have a flat edge one side & a slightly rounded edge the other side. Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
                    2) similar question for the fibres ... their 'tabs' are folded on themselves ...Does it matter which way they are orientated when re-inserting?
                    THANK YOU
                    The rounded edges should face inwards, the sharp edges to the outside. I did not take note during dis-assembly of the pack for the first time, but according to Sharpy, this is the way they are oriented from the factory. By leaning the bike over on the side stand, one can replace plates without draining all the oil...have a drain pan under the bike, to catch the small amount that will be lost though (a little more than a cupful).

                    It is possible to have drive plates (fibres) within specified thickness, and still experience slip, if they have been impregnated with additives from using oil unsuitable for a wet clutch at any point during the bike's life, BTW. If you still have slip after putting it all back together, new plates may be the way to go.
                    '82 GS1100E



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                      #25
                      You mean AFTER replacing fibres and still slippage ... then replace plates?
                      DO you know anything about the 'play' of inner hub I described too?
                      Thanx

                      Originally posted by Mysuzyq View Post
                      The rounded edges should face inwards, the sharp edges to the outside. I did not take note during dis-assembly of the pack for the first time, but according to Sharpy, this is the way they are oriented from the factory. By leaning the bike over on the side stand, one can replace plates without draining all the oil...have a drain pan under the bike, to catch the small amount that will be lost though (a little more than a cupful).

                      It is possible to have drive plates (fibres) within specified thickness, and still experience slip, if they have been impregnated with additives from using oil unsuitable for a wet clutch at any point during the bike's life, BTW. If you still have slip after putting it all back together, new plates may be the way to go.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
                        You mean AFTER replacing fibres and still slippage ... then replace plates?
                        DO you know anything about the 'play' of inner hub I described too?
                        Thanx
                        The fibers do "float" in oil so there is some play.
                        If you use those fibers you will tear up the hub again. I'd order some new ones and just use those until they arrive.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          The fibers do "float" in oil so there is some play.
                          If you use those fibers you will tear up the hub again. I'd order some new ones and just use those until they arrive.
                          ok thanx ... but is this play is normal?? ...
                          3) the inside hub has circular 'play' with respect to the outer basket of approx 2 inches back & forth. Is that ok or a bad sign?

                          THANK YOU

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            The fibers do "float" in oil so there is some play.
                            If you use those fibers you will tear up the hub again. I'd order some new ones and just use those until they arrive.
                            OK FBG it is!!
                            thanx
                            Last edited by Guest; 08-22-2011, 02:11 PM.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by ptexotik View Post
                              You mean AFTER replacing fibres and still slippage ... then replace plates?
                              DO you know anything about the 'play' of inner hub I described too?
                              Thanx
                              Yes, hopefully your new springs & scuffing the steels will yield good results, but if not, you will likely be in the market for new plates. I don't know the limits of the inner hub play, and doubt it is a factor in your slippage....if you had good clutch action (engagement/dis-engagement), and no other untoward symptoms, I'd leave it be & focus on the slippage at hand.
                              '82 GS1100E



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