Anybody running a lockup clutch

[Anonymous]

The lockup engages harder with increased rpm on the primary shaft in the gearbox, not wheel rpm. Remember that you have 5 gears, at least my bike. The clutch can slip a little when launching, but as soon as the inner hub start to rotate, the lockup will go to work no matter wich gear or speed. Totally engine RPM related after launching. Enough said...

[GER144]

I love my lock-up! No problems yet either, but I am still messing with it. I have a 1428cc, car-tire (26x10-15") Katana, 76" wheelbase. I ordered a snowflake lock-up from MTC. I bolted it in exactly the way it came, and with new-stock springs, my first pass on the bike netted a 1.28 60ft. and a 9.01et. After messing around with tire pressures, launch rpm, and I tried some different springs, I now run 1.25 60fts., and the et is now 8.85 at around 150+ mph. I also run the RBD quick-access cover, and highly recommend it to anyone. I'll be trying some new things with it this year too, as I hopefully will be making some more power!

[RacingJake]

Ok I'm going to buy a lockup and some wheelie bars. I like what you guys can do with them.

[cbxchris]

I`ve used them both slider and lockup. The slider is much more complicated and much better when correctly adjusted. The lockup is easily adjusted. Good rule of thumb is try stock springs and one nut on each arm then go from there. I ran 2 nuts with a ten inch car tire and mid 4 second 1/8 mile bike. The slider is so much easier on trannies it is worth the investment and time for drag racing only. Plus you get to go with a switch and not a lever on the handle bar which usually results in better reaction times and also you have both hands completely around the hand grips instead of one holding a clutch lever. Ever seen what happens when one hand comes off....its not pretty.