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82 750 oil at 320 degrees too!

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    82 750 oil at 320 degrees too!

    I placed on the old tech forum but didn't know if it would get response.

    So glad I found this thread. So mine with 42k miles running in typical south florida heat in the summer, seems to end up at the 320 degree mark also. is it regional temps, running lean, an inaccurate gauge? I am running 10/40 conventional so first I am switching to synthentic. There's some schools of thought acrosss this thread and while I want to be safe, I also don't want to waste money on repairs. Today i ran for 3 hours at or near the 320 mark; would i have shut down or stalled as a result? I didn't but I want to do the right repairs with everyone's help!

    Any other thoughts?

    Thanks folks!

    #2
    Suzuki MC 10-40 oil is rated for like 450F continuous temp so why would you worry?

    I don't have a temp gage on my 81 750E. 40k miles. Never yet had a problem using Suzuki oil in FL. The last couple years I've been using Mobil 1 and it does last longer and burn less. Had to change my clutches as they would slip under full throttle with the first batch of synthetic but not the regular oil. With new clutches no issues with either oil.

    Just went to Wally World today looking for some more 15-50 Mobil 1 and they don't carry it any more...grrrrrr. Used up my last gallon of left over Suzuki instead.

    Comment


      #3
      Thank you sir! Just trying to get to the bottom of it! Maybe that's why they used to call guages idiot lights?

      Comment


        #4
        320 is very high. I raced an oil cooled turbo car at my local track, and have done so in 105* heat. I'm worried about temperatures around the 250* range, I've long pulled in and shut down if I'm even close to 300*.

        I'm guessing faulty meter or seriously faulty oiling system. I'm topping out at 190* in 80* weather.

        Comment


          #5
          320 is too hot.
          Richen the jetting and make sure your exhaust cam is getting enough oil.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Thank you. I am guessing to richen the mixtures I need to remove the carbs? Otherwise what is the process?

            Comment


              #7
              Also, I just checked the bike in the garage. Its about 85 degrees out this morning here. So I am wondering why the temp gauge is sitting on 180 degrees? I kicked it over and it immediately jumped to around 200. I'm no scientist but after sitting 18 hours after my last ride i would guess the oil temp would be close to outside temp. Guage problem?

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                #8
                Like I said, faulty temp gauge. Mine was doing this when the ground for the gauge wasnt good. This was an aftermarket gauge, autometer. I'd guess it's a bad sensor, the autometer sensor is a drop in unit, dunno if it's calibrated for the stock gauge.

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                  #9
                  install a parade fan and oil cooler if you are worried.

                  320 is pretty warm for oil temperature(if it is an accurate reading) but NOT too hot to operate your aircooled engine at. They are designed to be this hot.

                  Get a different way to check the oil temp

                  When speaking of a liquid cooled engine this is a problem-- not an air cooled engine (different mechanical tolerances)- expect oil consumption with the 10w- whatever oil you run

                  The press fit parts in your head and cylinders don't fall out until they exceed 450 F degrees.

                  I do suggest 20/50 weight oil in the summer heat in the southern states

                  12V parade fan and a oil cooler will assist cooling your bike

                  1 more thing WHY change your jetting if it runs great -- I'd put a cooler heat range spark plug in your engine before jackking the fuel mixture ratio.

                  Don't go off and take BAD ADVICE when there really is no problem.
                  SUZUKI , There is no substitute

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mret430 View Post
                    Also, I just checked the bike in the garage. Its about 85 degrees out this morning here. So I am wondering why the temp gauge is sitting on 180 degrees? I kicked it over and it immediately jumped to around 200. I'm no scientist but after sitting 18 hours after my last ride i would guess the oil temp would be close to outside temp. Guage problem?
                    The oil temp gauge on the '82 models is not too accurate. I tried new sensors, then I got a replacement gauge and swapped it in and temps showed much lower. Best thing would be to get an aftermarket setup.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by trippivot View Post
                      320 is pretty warm for oil temperature(if it is an accurate reading) but NOT too hot to operate your aircooled engine at. They are designed to be this hot.

                      Get a different way to check the oil temp

                      When speaking of a liquid cooled engine this is a problem-- not an air cooled engine (different mechanical tolerances)- expect oil consumption with the 10w- whatever oil you run

                      The press fit parts in your head and cylinders don't fall out until they exceed 450 F degrees.

                      I do suggest 20/50 weight oil in the summer heat in the southern states

                      12V parade fan and a oil cooler will assist cooling your bike

                      1 more thing WHY change your jetting if it runs great -- I'd put a cooler heat range spark plug in your engine before jackking the fuel mixture ratio.

                      Don't go off and take BAD ADVICE when there really is no problem.
                      You're right.
                      I don't know if the temp is accurate.
                      I'd do some plug reads and then determine if you need to richen.
                      Didn't mean to give bad advice it's just that I've blown a few motors with lean conditions and too much advance. I'd hate to see that happen to someone else.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

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