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On Bob Beraults website,he shows lightening/turning the alternator rotor. Has anyone done this,how much weight/diameter do you remove,will this disturb the balance of the crank? thanks, Steve
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Re: lightened alternator
For an all out racing machine, there is no need to have a stator or rotor.
The rotor is balanced,so if you turn it down it will still be balanced. I doubt you could lathe more than two or three ounces off of it. Hardly worth the effort and expense. It would be more effective to remove the charging system, starter clutch and starter altogether to save weight, Use an aux external starting system.
Earl
Originally posted by RifRafRacingKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T. -
alternator rotor
Thanks Earl,I have the covers off to polish them,and was curious about this procedure.This is a street bike,needs charge/start gear.Comment
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Re: lightened alternator
If you lighten the rotating mass, doesn't that affect torque? It will give you a quicker reving motor, which is what you want because the horsepower is in the upper rpms, no?Originally posted by earlforKevin
E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
"Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa
1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.Comment
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I broke a Falicon super crank over the summer on my dragbike because of the weight of the magnets on the end of the crank. I cut mine off down to the starter gear on my dragbike. I would think any lightening would help longevity of the crank. Check out the picture of what can happen. http://www.rccracing.com/101_0134.jpgComment
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I was thinking of removing the rotor but leaving the starter clutch and all that stuff on for electric start. Just pull the rotor off, drill out the rivets and pull the magnet assy off, slap it all back together with 3 HD bolts and nuts and I should be good to go.................I think...........Right........... or would .041 safteywire be better?
Jake1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82Comment
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That looks painful & expensive!Originally posted by rosco15Comment
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Ouch!Originally posted by rosco15Comment
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Jake, I left the bottom part of the magnet assembly. I had it cut off on a lathe. I was afraid that if I totally removed all of the rotor I wouldn't have much for the three bolts to thread into.Comment
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I've seen cranks go in exactly the same plae which have had the lot removed, the lot being rotor, starter assy even the cover being replaced with a flat plate.Originally posted by rosco15
I think it is to do with the balance of the crank, but I'm only guessing.Comment
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Falicon said the left end is the #2 weakest point on the crank. #1 problem is twisting. That crank I broke was welded, polished, balanced, and trued by falicon. It was out of a 1980 and they referred to it as having a hollow left end. Something about an oil hole that runs thru it weakening it. I guess suzuki modified the problem thru the years and eventually fixed it in 83 when they went to the big left end. My crank now is also out of an 80 but I had them put a billet left end on it.Comment
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I make a belt driven alternator setup that cures left end breakage.
Tested on Godzuki and Brad Mummerts GS, the quickest and fastest GS streetbike on the planet (7.75@192)
No failures
NoBars@aol.comComment
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