Please read my plugs.

[platinum2]

you might want to try 1.5 turns instead of 2, that would give a lil more fuel to air

[gearhead13]

They're the right plug. That's what every chart I've seen, or part's house calls for

Look here for 82 GS650G. Second page, second row.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...uki_Specs.html

Ooops my bad, I thought all 2 valve engines had 14mm plugs.
If it was me I would richen it up. Looks ok for a water cooled engine, but not good for an air cooled one. Probably good for gas mileage.

[Quick Cal]

you might want to try 1.5 turns instead of 2, that would give a lil more fuel to air

Please forgive me if I'm missing something here. So note #2 from one of the tutorials is incorrect.

Note #1: Follow the images from Left to Right, Top To Bottom for the proper sequence. Also, there is not a "slide 15" so, don't go looking for it!

Note #2: Bill Kingston has brought it to our attention that the references to a Pilot Air Screw may be incorrect. He states that on these carbs use a Fuel Flow Screw instead. This means that you are controlling fuel running through the passages with this adjustment, not air. So when turning the screw counterclockwise you are increasing fuel flow and when you turn it clockwise you decrease fuel flow.

[2BRacing]

On your 82 model the carbs should be of the constant vacuum type (big round flat tops) and on these carbs the idle mixture screw is exactly that: a mixture of fuel and air is regulated by that screw. So turning the screw clockwise will result in leaner condition (less fuel/air mixture), and turning it counter clockwise will result in more fuel/air mixture (richer).

You should adjust each idle mixture screw to obtain the highest smooth idle speed. Using the "search" function, you will find many posts on how to do this.

You should also be aware that it is possible to get different lean/rich conditions throughout the rev range, depending on how wide open the throttle is and which fuel circuit is in operation. Up to about 1/4 open throttle, the mixture is determined by the pilot circuit (idle mixture screw and pilot jet). So in order to check the pilot circuit, you must run the bike at 1/4 throttle and then follow the correct procedure (clutch in; kill switch off; close throttle etc) and look at the appearance of the plugs. Similarly, at about 1/2 open throttle you will see the effect of the jet needle position; and at wider open throttle you will see the effect of main jet size. There is a lot of information to be found with "search" (plug chops), explained much better than I am able to explain it.

[Don-lo]

They look great, and are cleaning up nicely. You can turn the screws out a little more if it gives you a better idle and less hesitation. If it runs strong throughout the rev range, you're golden. The 650 can be very finicky (I've had 4 of them), and if you have a problem, it will almost be unrideable.

[BigD_83]

Ok. They seem to be burning off some of the black stuff on there. They are defenetly getting cleaner. I only rode it 5 miles. They don't look quite as white and porceileny. More ashed over.

By looking at the new pics it seems I need to put some miles on it and finish burning them clean.

Does turning the pilot screw out, counterclockwise,, make it more rich, or more lean. I just want to make sure I'm going the right way so I don't go too lean and mess things up.

Are you sure you aren't messing with us here? Aren't these the same pictures from Post #1?

[mrbill5491]

GS bikes with the CV carbs (1980-?) tend to be a bit cold natured to begin with, even today my 750 stumbles if I try to ride it just after starting it up. They need to warm up a few minutes. I looked back in the post and you have already removed the seals off the idle screws right.

[Quick Cal]

Are you sure you aren't messing with us here? Aren't these the same pictures from Post #1?

Damn you're good. I didn't even realize I did that. I uploaded them to my album, the attached the wrong pic's.

So here's the latest pic,,,I think.







I actually did a 70 mph plug chop. I went 2 miles,,is that enough. They don't look any different.

BTW. I bet you guys was thinking I was a nut. I said a was going to move my needle a notch. Well, I took a slide out last night,,,and there was no notch's. I guess that must have been my 38's from my Yamaha XS2.

So I was going to shim the needles just so I could see a change. Do you guys think I should jack with it or not. Thanks. And sorry for the pic oopsy.

[mrbill5491]

Hmmm, still looking lean, I would have gone about 6 miles or even further. The motor needs to be at operating temp. Do the plug test again then check. If they still look white then I would probably up the main jets a step or so, not sure I would mess with the needles.

Damn you're good. I didn't even realize I did that. I uploaded them to my album, the attached the wrong pic's.

So here's the latest pic,,,I think.







I actually did a 70 mph plug chop. I went 2 miles,,is that enough. They don't look any different.

BTW. I bet you guys was thinking I was a nut. I said a was going to move my needle a notch. Well, I took a slide out last night,,,and there was no notch's. I guess that must have been my 38's from my Yamaha XS2.

So I was going to shim the needles just so I could see a change. Do you guys think I should jack with it or not. Thanks. And sorry for the pic oopsy.

[Quick Cal]

OK. I know I lost credibility when I said I was going up a notch on my needle. But, when I went the 2 miles,, that was just at a steady 70mph. Before that I went through town with a bunch of stop and goes,, then went about 5 miles to get to the 2 mile steady stretch. I beleive it was up to temp.

Just curious why you recommend re-jetting of shimming the needle. Do you think I'm that far off. Thanks

[Quick Cal]

A little update.

I shimmed the needle's. I'm using the Radio Shack washer's. I started with 3. The performance was greatly improved. Before it would take a bit to get up to 80mph. Now it jumps right up there. My off idle stumble was almost all gone. Just a touch left. But I know I need to play with the pilot screw's for that. What is puzzling me is by doing my plug chop's,,the plug's look the same.

So today a dropped down to just 2 washer's. I think the performance went down in the mid range. My off idle stumble is a bit worse. Again, I've got to play with the screw's. I just went for a 5 mile steady cruise and did a plug chop. They look the same. It doesn't matter if I do a 70mph chop, or ride it around town and check them when I get home, they always look the same. It seems like nothing is changing the color. They still look too lean I think. Do I dare shim with just one washer. Please advise. Thanks.

[gearhead13]

What are your idle mixture screws at? If they are 3+ turns out you might need a bigger pilot jet, that is where most of your color is coming from, IMO.

[posplayr]

there are sources available on line to tell you how to read plugs. The two most important things are to see where the heat color transition is on the strap, and you want soot at the very bottom of the insulator (way down deep)

You dont look far off.

http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53:how-to-read-spark-plugs&catid=34:tuning&Itemid=56

http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html

http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html