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New RS38's, what main jet to start?

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    New RS38's, what main jet to start?

    What size of main jet should I start with for my RS38's? I put in 140's, they had 152.5's when I got them, I dont know what kind of bike they were used on.

    #2
    In your 1300+ cc engine?
    Mikuni jet size of 145-155 would be a good starting point I would think.
    Hopped-up 1100's (1168's, etc.) typically use 142.5's and up.

    Eric







    Of course, after no one else answered your question and I did, now the rest of the crew will correct me.

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      #3
      I have a 1327...track 160, street with baffle is 155...
      sigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On

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        #4
        Originally posted by bellucci View Post
        I have a 1327...track 160, street with baffle is 155...
        Ok, I guess I am putting the 152's back in.
        What size pilot jets do you run?

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          #5
          Installed the carbs today, runs ok for not being synced yet, one float leaked and the A/P wasnt working so I have the bowls soaking in carb cleaner. Some blockage in the A/P bowl passages. Hopefully get them reinstalled and synced tomorrow.

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            #6
            Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
            Installed the carbs today, runs ok for not being synced yet, one float leaked and the A/P wasnt working so I have the bowls soaking in carb cleaner. Some blockage in the A/P bowl passages. Hopefully get them reinstalled and synced tomorrow.
            Your bike is going to be a madman
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              Your bike is going to be a madman
              Me, or the bike? LOL
              Some yoyo PO mixed up the #2 and #3 bowls. The #2 has the passages for the A/P.

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                #8
                Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                Me, or the bike? LOL
                Some yoyo PO mixed up the #2 and #3 bowls. The #2 has the passages for the A/P.
                You have to be one to ride it.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #9
                  Got it together tonight and went for a ride, carbs are so out of sync, sounds like its cammed to the moon
                  Lots of jump, seeing about 12-13 A/F at cruise but 14-15 when I give it throttle so tomorrow I'm going to raise the needles 2 notches and sync it.
                  I didn't want to wind it out because of the lean a/f.
                  And YAY, looks like all my oil leaks are fixed, although I won't know for sure until tomorrow.

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                    #10
                    Started with 150's went to 140's and now 135's and it still splutters under full throttle. a/p almost completely disabled. Seeing below 10 a/f under full throttle. I set the floats to 17mm, maybe a touch under 17. I guess I will try some 130's

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                      Started with 150's went to 140's and now 135's and it still splutters under full throttle. a/p almost completely disabled. Seeing below 10 a/f under full throttle. I set the floats to 17mm, maybe a touch under 17. I guess I will try some 130's
                      Could the pump be too rich?
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        Could the pump be too rich?
                        The pump is disabled
                        I put the 130's in it tonight and I am going for a ride tomorrow. They better work, cause those are the smallest mains I have I might take them apart and recheck my float level, set it at 18 mm maybe.

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                          #13
                          Silly question , but do you have a dual outlet fuel tap?

                          My 1166 was starving at full throttle on my kat, so I tapped and threaded in a 3/16" hose tail opposite the existing one which is easy on the katana taps and whallah!, a dual flow tap , no more fuel starving, and fixed the lean breakdown at full throttle. If you look at the front of the tap opposite the existing outlet you'll see a perfect location which lines up on prime and shuts off when the tap is off. I'll post some pics hopefully this weekend if I get a chance.

                          Or fit a Pingel dual flow tap.
                          Last edited by Guest; 06-27-2012, 07:08 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Spot1000Kat View Post
                            Silly question , but do you have a dual outlet fuel tap?

                            My 1166 was starving at full throttle on my kat, so I tapped and threaded in a 3/16" hose tail opposite the existing one which is easy on the katana taps and whallah!, a dual flow tap , no more fuel starving, and fixed the lean breakdown at full throttle. If you look at the front of the tap opposite the existing outlet you'll see a perfect location which lines up on prime and shuts off when the tap is off. I'll post some pics hopefully this weekend if I get a chance.

                            Or fit a Pingel dual flow tap.
                            Well, that could be. I am at a loss as to whats going on. I just have a T fitting on the stock petcock. When I turn it on prime all the fuel goes into one inlet, the T has to be exactly level for it to flow evenly. Maybe if I put the T up close to the petcock instead of down near the carbs. So, I would imagine that cylinders 3&4 would run out of fuel first. But doesnt explain the under 10-1 a/f ratio I am seeing. And it not like it runs wide open ok for a bit then stumbles, as soon as I open it up it, it splutters.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              130 or 135 mains is what Mikuni calls for. They call for 140s in a full race prepped bike.

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