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New RS38's, what main jet to start?

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    #31
    Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
    Well, I pulled the carbs last night, reset the floats to 18mm, same 130 main, dropped the needle 1 notch and tossed my inline fuel filter She pulled ok wide open, and 14-15-1 a/f at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Checked a plug and looked too lean. Less than 10% of the time wide open so the plug color due to the needle I think. Theres no way I can look down at the gauge wide open, have to hook up the laptop and go for a ride.
    I will be ordering a pingel when I can.
    I was able to tune my bike real well and with 1166cc have 135 mains (up from 137.5 DJ) only because of my 4:2:1, I would think you should be in the 145-155 range with 1327cc

    Read at the top my compare between the 4:1 and 4:2:1. At 4:1 I needed 140's. I have a selection of brand new Mikini jets at 145-155 if you woud like them cheap. I will not need them.



    14-15 is real lean, you dont want to psuh that baby.

    You need to find a long hill and measure AFR at fixed throttle settings

    1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT. Things are changing too fast if you try that on the flat.
    Last edited by posplayr; 06-29-2012, 06:46 PM.

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      #32
      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
      I was able to tune my bike real well and with 1166cc have 135 mains (up from 137.5 DJ) only because of my 4:2:1, I would think you should be in the 145-155 range with 1327cc

      Read at the top my compare between the 4:1 and 4:2:1. At 4:1 I needed 140's. I have a selection of brand new Mikini jets at 145-155 if you woud like them cheap. I will not need them.



      14-15 is real lean, you dont want to psuh that baby.

      You need to find a long hill and measure AFR at fixed throttle settings

      1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT. Things are changing too fast if you try that on the flat.
      Ya, when I saw how lean it was I backed off, it does 12-13 at cruise on the highway. Idle is about 11.5-12.
      I was running about a 150 with my bs36's, but these are a much different beast.
      Do you think my a/f gauge is still accurate? I did recalibrate it, when I pulled the sniffer out it was all sooty.
      Thanks for the offer, but I have every mikuni from 130 to 152.5, and some pilots but these pilots are different.
      For right now I have an oil leak after running high rpm that I have to fix, it never ends............

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        #33
        Originally posted by bellucci View Post
        Just an observation. At 3000 rpm, in 3rd gear,pointed srtraight ahead,I can go full throttle with no bog. Of course I am looking at nothing but blue sky, so panic sents in and I have to shut it off. I looked at the build sheet and I think my carbs are not 38's. I think they are 33's or 36's. maybe thats why I have bigger jets in the mains. I submit the video below to give you an idea how it runs at the track... The video starts slow but it gets better. Times are 10.30's to 10'40's with a trap speed of 125...
        Curt

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lByQl1w-QtM
        The smaller carbs would be less likely to have any bog snapping the throttle open, especially 33s. It sounds like gearhead is about where he needs to be. I know I have my 700 over-carbed with 34s and a basically stock engine. The rush up top is unreal but if I'm just cruising along I do have to roll the throttle if I don't downshift and make it sing. It's easy to over-rev because it doesn't fall on its nose until well beyond redline, 3k beyond.

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          #34
          Looking for reasons the bike wasnt running right. I had the top end off just before mounting the carbs and redegreed the intake cam. I cleaned and reoiled the pods, then rememebered how tired I was when I was degreeing the cams so I checked them and the intake was at 109.5, so I set the intake to 106 and ex to 108, checked my plug gap and it was tighter than a .026 gauge. I set the gap to .028. Went for a ride, much better, takes full throttle ok, probably on the lean side with the 130's in there.
          The thing that bugs me about these RS carbs is the rattling noise they make, bike sounds like a rattle trap. They make good power, but what a racket
          Part throttle 2nd gear power wheelies Yippee!

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            #35
            Back up to 135's+ we go, eh?

            Eric

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              #36
              Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
              Looking for reasons the bike wasnt running right. I had the top end off just before mounting the carbs and redegreed the intake cam. I cleaned and reoiled the pods, then rememebered how tired I was when I was degreeing the cams so I checked them and the intake was at 109.5, so I set the intake to 106 and ex to 108, checked my plug gap and it was tighter than a .026 gauge. I set the gap to .028. Went for a ride, much better, takes full throttle ok, probably on the lean side with the 130's in there.
              The thing that bugs me about these RS carbs is the rattling noise they make, bike sounds like a rattle trap. They make good power, but what a racket
              Part throttle 2nd gear power wheelies Yippee!
              Makes you think you have a head full of loose valves with the rattle.

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                #37
                Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
                Back up to 135's+ we go, eh?

                Eric
                Ya, have to start over with the main, sounded kind of 'dry' on the top end. Still waiting for my pingel.
                Amazing how much difference 3.5 deg of cam timing can make

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
                  Makes you think you have a head full of loose valves with the rattle.
                  Ya, hard to hear the regular rattle the engine usually makes.

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                    #39
                    RS 38 Main Jet

                    Originally posted by bellucci View Post
                    I have a 1327...track 160, street with baffle is 155...
                    do your 38s have a main air jet?? those jets seem really big

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