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    clip-on question

    It is possible to raise the forks up high enough to install clip ons above the top tree? Has anyone done it and are there pictures? Thanks

    #2
    Possible? Sure, been done plenty of times. Unfortunately it changes the geometry of the bike. So instead of quick steering, it can turn into a full blown tank slapper.

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      #3
      i would also like to find out how this would work can anyone send pictures of how they did it and how it affects the stering!

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        #4
        Originally posted by Reaper0001 View Post
        i would also like to find out how this would work can anyone send pictures of how they did it and how it affects the stering!
        Lowering the front reduces rake, making the steering really sensitive and easy to lean into turns. Perhaps too easy.

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          #5
          A few years ago I had a TL1000R and I felt it was somewhat ponderous around town. To ''sharpen'' and lighten the steering I raised the forks 15mm. It made a noticeable difference to the steering. Changes in direction required less input from me and was less tiring commuting.

          The downside was that there was a equal and opposite increase in front end ''nervousness''. The steering damper handled it but when accelerating ( esp at anything other than upright) you felt the front twitching - and you ignore that at your peril.

          What I am getting to, in my own verbose way, is that I feel that raising the forks enough to fit clipons would make it diabolical to ride. You would get head shakes every time you strongly accelerate . Mind you that is complete conjecture on my part.

          Richard

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            #6
            Worked OK for me ('78 GS550). The lowered front end improved handling and had little effect on stability, but I was using Progressive fork springs with a pretty big preload spacer (I can't remember how big). On thing I noticed is that I was sliding forward off the seat more than with the forks in their original position.


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              #7
              First question, what bike? Some are more affected then others.For instance, on my '82 750 kat, the PO had raised the forks and put the clip ons above the tree to save his back.This bike has enough trail that the stability wasn't really affected.The steering was somewhat quicker and easier to transition side to side.I changed it back 'cause I found I was scraping the header pipe on speed bumps.(plus IMO it looks better) On our GS's, it probably won't make it too "twitchy",and if you don't like it it's easy to change back.One thing to watch out for is cable binding,especially the throttle.After you've moved them, start the bike and turn the wheel all the way left and right,see if the RPM increases.if it does,you can usually re-route the cable to cure this.Good luck!

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                #8
                Chicago bob I love it that looks great. Also love how you made use of the top triple and made a cover plate and speedo mount. Thank you sir for the pix and hello from Joliet! You are my next inspiration for the front end.

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                  #9
                  Thanks for the heads up mawg, I have a 450L. The PO but drag bars on and when i turned to the right the cable did bind and reved up, but I fixed that and I'm well aware of the possibilities with changing bars. Thanks again

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                    #10
                    With an L model, you have a little bit of leeway to play with. You could try moving the forks up 1/4" at a time and take it for a little ride and see how it feels. But most clip ons are about 1.5" tall.

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                      #11
                      What is stock because mine are 3/4" above the top of the tree, about 1/16" from the bottom of the bars. This is how it was when I bought it.

                      If I where to lower the rear say two inches would it counter act the quick steering, or maybe it would be even more responsive?

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                        #12
                        I believe stock would have been flush with the top triple clamp.

                        Lowering the front and the rear does a couple different things - shortens the wheelbase, limits ground clearance (and cornering distance), but most importantly it brings the tire closer to the fender. So your shocks need to have less travel so the rear can't bottom out on a bump.

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