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Custom Swingarm Bushings (for swinger conversions)

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    #46
    I just drilled my frame. Of course this was like 4 years ago before everyone had started talking about making bushes and such. It was a little scary at first because I knew if I somehow got so much as an 1/8" off on one side, by the time it translated to the other side it would be WAY off.
    I just used a very new, very sharp 5/8" bit, kept oil on it and let it do the work with a good quality hand drill. It actually went very smooth to tell you the truth. I spent more time worrying and fretting than it actually took to do the job. One thing I DID do was use a wooden dowel that I'd center punched dead center and run through both holes to use as a guide of sorts. I had a buddy back the dowel out as the bit pulled itself through the hole and I just made sure I kept the tip of the bit in the center punch divot in the dowel so I could see I wasn't side loading the drill. Or at least that's what I was thinking...

    If I were to do it over again, I'd probably still drill the frame provided I wasn't doing this to some rare model. The chances of me ever wanting to go back to a heavier tube steel swinger over the lighter, arguably stronger Alu swinger was slim to none.

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      #47
      Originally posted by Smurf View Post
      I ended up sourcing custom inner races that allowed me to avoid drilling my frame lugs. I used a stock-diameter (although shortened) GS750E 14mm pivot bolt and stock GS1100E bearings.

      This was my original plan. It seemed like the most simple and straight forward option until it came down to metal choice. What metal did you end up machining your parts out of? How is it all holding up?

      You can see photos here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=204383
      Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
      I just drilled my frame. Of course this was like 4 years ago before everyone had started talking about making bushes and such. It was a little scary at first because I knew if I somehow got so much as an 1/8" off on one side, by the time it translated to the other side it would be WAY off.
      I just used a very new, very sharp 5/8" bit, kept oil on it and let it do the work with a good quality hand drill. It actually went very smooth to tell you the truth. I spent more time worrying and fretting than it actually took to do the job. One thing I DID do was use a wooden dowel that I'd center punched dead center and run through both holes to use as a guide of sorts. I had a buddy back the dowel out as the bit pulled itself through the hole and I just made sure I kept the tip of the bit in the center punch divot in the dowel so I could see I wasn't side loading the drill. Or at least that's what I was thinking...

      If I were to do it over again, I'd probably still drill the frame provided I wasn't doing this to some rare model. The chances of me ever wanting to go back to a heavier tube steel swinger over the lighter, arguably stronger Alu swinger was slim to none.
      Exactly what I did minus I used a drill press instead of a hand drill. It was an expensive bit and if anyone else is doing this swap and decides to go this route let me know and I'll give you a steal of a deal on the bit. IF I did it over again I'd probably build an outer sleeve of aluminum to press into the 1100 swingarm, then pressfit stock gs750 bearings and sleeve for use with the 14mm bolt. I'd do it A) to maintain my sanity (as a perfectionist it would ease my mind to know I didn't have to drill) and B) to use a stock pivot without having to cut the threads further down the shaft. Drilling does work it just has to be done very carefully and the end result can be close to perfect but never will be and no two holes are the same. Sleeves are the route to go IMO because they can be fashioned of aluminum rather than machining inner races which must be a hardened steel. Even though most of the good info came a tad late for me this should help a bunch of folks with their swaps.

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        #48

        Line it up in the drill press using the stock pivot bolt

        Use multiple angles

        Once it's as close as you can get it swing it in and line it up

        Use lots of cutting oil and start small and check that it's starting centered. Make sure it's clamped and shimmed securely

        Punch it slowly through and BAM you're done



        Not too shabby just take your time and make sure you use quality tools and an even better bit. Since the hole you will drill will likely be with a 5/8 bit be sure to either ream it to 16mm or do what I did and lightly hit it with a dremel fine grit sanding tool. The head is about 15mm so it's a great fit. Very very little material needs removal so don't overdo it and make sure you hit it all evenly. Good luck!

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          #49
          Guess the end result is we got our swingarm conversions done...not sure I would want to do it again though....
          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
          2015 CAN AM RTS


          Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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