GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

I also got a couple of cables custom made for $25 each from seller steelescycle on eBay. Total was about $59 shipped. I went with 47.5" housings (+5.5 on the GSX-G) and 51.75" cables. I should have them in a week or so and will post here as to how they fit.

EDIT
After using the center linkage, I found both the stock throttle and choke cables worked OK.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Preliminary wiring test is a go, no blown fuses, and so far:

• Low beam
• High beam
• High beam flash
• Left & right rear turn signals (Windjammer is still off)
• Hazard flashers

The red harness wire that goes to the ignition switch is too small in my opinion- it was warm when I was holding it. It looks like 18 gauge or so. I'd like to replace it with some high quality automotive wire of 16~14 gauge or so.

The main thing I'm waiting for now is the fuel pump, I got a shipment notice a couple of days ago. The plan at this point is to mount it in a finned aluminum sleeve. This is a "Professional Products" pump mount for a 45mm or so external pump, so I'll split it and bolt it together to accept the 52mm Bosch pump.

Preliminary test fitting with the airbox in place looks like a go. I can route the hose from the petcock to the pre-filter, then to the pump on the right side. From the pump, to the post-filter, which should be easily accessible on the left side. If I find the right filter, I can use the stock GSXR600 fuel hose, as it has a 90 degree fitting on each end.

I also mounted the fuel pressure fittings except for the gauge, I'll need it to test the pump when it gets here.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The fuel pump arrived with today's mail, and it looks good. Testing showed about .8 amps free flow, and at 50 PSI it drew 4.25 amps. Using PWM I doubt I'll draw much power constantly.

I cut the heat sink and flattened the sides so they fit the 52mm pump better. Using some 5mm socket head bolts, I placed an 8mm nut between the heat sink halves and this allowed enough tension to hold the pump.

The pictures I took will greatly help show how this works.

[GS1000G Shopper]

The longer throttle cables arrived today and I really overestimated the length. It looks like I underestimated the inner cable by about 1/4". When I hook both up, there is no slack, and the throttle hangs. Looking the setup over, I have to wonder why two cables are used here- push/pull. I removed one and made it a pull-only setup and it seems to work fine. I'm sure there is a reason for two cables, but I'm not sure what it is. I may rig up a return spring in the other cable opening on the throttle body to make sure they close all the way.

I'm still figuring out how to mount the fuel pump, and have to mod the heat sink a little due to a raised ridge on the pump body.

[49er]

Push/Pull cables are designed as a safeguard against icing on manual slide carbs when riding in winter conditions. Riders who have tried single cables, usually convert back to duals once they survive their first icing up experience.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I can say icing won't be an issue here in FL, plus the bike has throttle bodies w/o slides. The bike survived 30+ years with a single cable, so I think it will be OK. I am going to locate a spring on the other cable opening so the TB will be 100% closed when the throttle is closed.

[coombehouse]

I can say icing won't be an issue here in FL, plus the bike has throttle bodies w/o slides. The bike survived 30+ years with a single cable, so I think it will be OK. I am going to locate a spring on the other cable opening so the TB will be 100% closed when the throttle is closed.

I have been following this thread with interest as I am doing the same mod on my gs1100 katana. I guess I am a little further ahead than you as I have fitted dual cables, got the pump mounted & sorted the temperature sensors. I am rapidly running out of space though. Just need to sort the fuel feed & return & the regulator. I have also binned the Suzuki ignition to give me the ability to retard the ignition when starting as I have had issues in the past.
I have used dual cable as I figured Suzuki used them on the Gsxr for a reason. I have also mounted the bodies upside down with the throttle cables coming in from underneath. The linkage is also now moved from the end to the centre of the body assembly. Seems to work fine.
Good luck with your mods.
Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

I'd like to see a pic of your TB setup, off the top of my head I'm not sure how the linkage could be moved to the center on the GSXR600 TB units- it is attached to the end body.

I made a bracket last night to:
1. Keep the clutch cable away from the linkage, and
2. Mount a return spring.

I'm going to shop at the hardware store for the proper spring, and may have the cable guy make me a shorter cable- I think the extra bend is adding to the overall drag.

Today I'm going to try and cut a groove in the heat sink for the fuel pump so it will mount more evenly, then I can see about mounting it to the air box.

Here are some pics of the fuel pump & heat sink, as well as one of the Wix 33302 filter I plan to use.I had to lighten some of the pics due to poor lighting.

Wix filter:


Overall view of pump in heat sink (you can see the ridge where I want to notch the heat sink):


Since the heat sink was too small, I cut it lengthwise and flattened the curve using a hammer and my shop floor until it matched the 52mm pump. I added two 8 mm nuts where it bolts together. This provides ample friction to hold the pump.


Here's a view of the mounting flange:

[coombehouse]

Some pics for you.
I just swapped the outer body & one of the inner bodies to move the linkage.
Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks. Looks like an interesting setup.

UPDATE
I am going to use the center linkage. The downside is the idle screw is difficult to reach, but the upside is a better linkage (pulling from center vs side) and the likely retention of the shorter throttle cable. The tab from the side TB was too short to connect to the linkage where the cable goes, so I made a modification. The key here is to have all 4 TBs synchronized and to be sure all are closed at idle. I welded a small 3/8" block to the TB that holds the center linkage (picture below). This allowed enough overlap for the next one to connect as it should.


The main drawback to a center linkage is that the idle screw will be hard to reach. To overcome that, I am looking at various remote cable type screws. I had one from a Honda ST1100, but the threads were too small (4mm). The Keihin TBs use a 5mm very fine (<.8) thread. I found a 15" remote cable for $5 shipped on eBay, but it was way too large at 3/8-24 thread. 5mm is slightly larger (.1970) than a #10 screw (.1900). I'm thinking a cable from another brand may work and have sent out some inquiries. So far I've found the one from a Kawasaki Ninja 250 is also 4mm.

I found a thread on the ST Owners Forum (registration required to view pics, I've attached the relevant one) that says the ST1300 idle cable on those are 5mm. If this fits/works, the Honda part number is 16029-MCS-003 and they call it a "SCREW SET, STOP". Partzilla sells it for $22.50 + shipping.

UPDATE
The part arrived and the 5mm thread is a different pitch. The part contains a new longer spring (too long) and a steel washer. I used a tap and rethreaded the linkage to 5mm x .08, which is the same as the ST1300 part. I had to cut off the unthreaded part of the cable end where it goes into the linkage. This made it the same length as the GSXR600 idle screw. I added some anti-seize to the threads, and reused the Suzuki spring with the ST1300 steel washer. Best of both worlds.

The cable is long enough that it runs to the left side of the bike by the fuel filter.

EDIT
After looking over the situation, I found I can turn the idle stop screw with a long flat blade screwdriver, so this part while not absolutely needed is a real convenience.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I'm working on identifying affordable sensors for the project. Here is what I've come up with:
MAP: Look for a GM 1-bar sensor on eBay that corresponds to GM part ending in 460. Should sell for $10-15 shipped.
Related research page- GM MAP sensor identification information 1 bar 2 bar 3 bar. The MAP sensor I got was the newer version with a Metripack connector, so I cut a pigtail from an old GM harness I had and spliced it into the GSXR harness.

Coolant (head) temp, CLT: I'll use a thermistor that is rated at -50C to 300C. I found Spectrum Sensors GC4914A-3-100 to fit the bill, it's about $2.25. It appears it can be placed into a ring terminal for mounting to the head. The datasheet linked on the linked page at Mouser Electronics has the resistance/temperature values the Microsquirt tuning software needs. UPDATE: These are really small, and the wires non-insulated. To make the sensor, I stripped the wires out of some 18 gauge automotive TXL wire and used the insulation on these. I used JB Weld to hold the thermistor in place from the rear, and placed an 8 gauge splice over top of the ring terminal to help secure the wires. Prelim testing with an ohm meter and a portable heater checked out OK. See photo in another post.

Intake air temp, IAT: Since this will not get as hot as the head, I'm using a lower range thermistor from Vishay: Vishay/BC Components NTCLE400E3222H It's about $2 and comes with wires. The temp range is -40C to +85C. The datasheet also has resistance/temp values. I plan on mounting this in a grommet in the airbox by use of a nylon barbed fitting (see photo in another post).

Throttle position will be the stock GSXR unit.

O2 wil be a Bosch wide band sensor. If you look for "Innovate 3737 Wideband Oxygen O2 Sensor LM-1 LC-1 Bosch LSU4.2" on eBay, it sells for around $56. To wire it in, the LSU4 sensor uses a six wire connector. The matching connector is here for about $10 and comes with the needed terminals/seals. Or you can cut off the plug and use your own connectors, but if you want to use it with an Innovate device (or anything that requires the original connector) later this would require more work.

I also found a curved bung for mounting it on eBay, and had this welded onto the right outer pipe by the crossover.

[coombehouse]

I used an MPX4250 map sensor mounted in an enclosure.
Similar to you i used a thermistor for the CHT sensor though i made a clamp to fit between the fins. I didnt fancy the ring terminal idea much.
I think i used a similar sensor for IAT & it works well.
Dont understand the part about the wideband. I just bought an Innovate Lc1 which comes ready to rock with sensor, bung etc ready to go. Why make it hard.
I most definitely wont be using a narrow band as the last thing needed on an aircooledmotor is an afr of 14.7 to 1. I am shooting for 12.5 thereabouts.
Nick

[GS1000G Shopper]

The 4250 is designed to be board mounted, no need for this application since I have an abundance of Weatherpack connectors. These are easier for me to work with, as I've used them on almost all of my automotive projects.

I may wedge in a piece of aluminum with a drilled & tapped hole between fins and mount it there if there are no bolts on the back side, but I'll have to look it over.

An Innovate LC-1 is anywhere from $160~$200, that's why. I already have one, but it is not needed for this project- only the O2 sensor. It's cheaper to buy a $56 sensor and $15 connector and make my own harness.

Good point on the wide band, I'm used to later model car engines with these.

[coombehouse]

I get it now. Never occurred to me you may have an lc1 already.
Only reason i used the mpx map sensor is that GM parts are not that common over here in UK.
Have you given much thought about how you are going to populate the VE table? I have bought a netbook & i guess i will be riding around with it on the seat or in a bag. Unless I get a better suggestion that is

[GS1000G Shopper]

I can run a cable to the trunk and log data there via a small laptop.